replacing steering rack or inner tie rod ends?

[Huntervf]

As if my bank account wasn't ****** raw enough, the 93 now has a very definitive pull to the right and all **** kinds of vibration in the steering wheel. As far as I can tell the rack isn't leaking, or at least it's not leaking very much because the PS fluid is always full. The fluid is burnt though, and it's been flushed twice since 2006 so there's definitely something going on internally. I also have the trademark 1993 pulsation in the steering; had it since I bought the car waaay back in 2004, but it does seem a bit worse than before. Or perhaps that's just the tie rods??

There's quite a bit of side to side movement in the front wheels so I know the inner tie rods must be toast (outers were done within the last 50,000 miles, inners AFAIK are original), and I'm getting severe tire wear on the passenger front inner edge, moderate wear on the driver front inner edge. So okay, I think it's safe to say it needs inner tie rods. However, here's my dilemma:

I've never done inner tie rods or a rack replacement, so I'm likely going to have a shop do the work. With money in very short supply, is there much of a difference in labor for inner tie rods as opposed to just replacing the rack? I'm looking at $50 for two inner tie rods, or $94 for a reman rack (with inner tie rods, limited lifetime warranty, + core) from Autozone, so there's not a huge difference in parts costs. If it's not going to be much more in labor for the rack, I may as well just get that replaced since the car just rolled 162,000.

Or, should I just handle the rack replacement myself? I've never done it and admittedly I'm intimidated. Mind you, I've done probably 50 + top and side 60k services and stripped a couple parts car, so I'm familiar with wrenching on the SHO. I just REALLY don't want to get halfway through this job only to discover I'm ***** and then have to get the car towed to a shop.

I should also mention that I'll have to get a couple new tires as well. So much for new years

Looking for help and advice here folks--How tough is a rack replacement? How much can I expect to pay for a rack replacement at a reputable shop? Anyone know the book time on a rack replacement? Or is it going to be much cheaper to just go with inner tie rod ends (if a closer inspection shows the rack to be okay)?

Sorry to ramble, just very confused and frustrated these days

 

[llamaking122]

we could do ours together! if you get that job in ohio

 

[Huntervf]

That would be nice, but methinks something is going to break between now and then!

 

[NWGRN94MTX]

Chris,

95% of the remaned racks are done by A1 Cardone, ask AutoZone who remaned the rack. If it's A1 Cardone, I would be wary of buying it and having some else install it. We have had a good amount of these bad out of the box and they don't pay near the labor costs it takes to do the job twice, and the long ass claim process, let alone down time and the ****** off customers we have had do to these poor reman's. We found a source for quality reman's, and that's what we sell and that what we install at the shop. We have not had any problems since.

Now for the shameless plug. SHO Source's are done by a quality reman house. -

SHO Source steering racks


If your doing the rack, do the inter tir rods ends. Your there, why do the job again?

 

[sperold]

I would try to do the inner tie rod ends myself and leave the rack alone. First, I would go to a shop & tell them you need an alignment but you want to know which parts you need first. They can tell you if it is inners, outers, whatever. If it turns out your hunch is correct, get the new inner tie rods and change them out. Count the turns on the old parts you take off and put the new ones on with the same count (if they are the same style or brand). Double check the alignment using straight edges and get it the best you can and see how the car feels. If you steering wheel is in the center and it feels OK, try it for awhile without an alignment. If it isn't, get the alignment done when you can swing it.

 

[Shoaz]

Call around to O'Reilly's/Checker/Autozone/whoever and find the "rental" tool for removing the inner tie rods. I just did this on the Pumpkin and the tool made it a pretty trivial job.

The only alignment parameter that will be affected by changing tie rods is toe, and, in addition to measuring, counting turns, etc., that can get you pretty close, some jackstands, string, and a combination square will get toe dead-nuts on.

In other words, assuming one has the inner-tie-rod tool, swapping out the tie-rods and resetting toe is not that tough of a job. Much easier than swapping the rack, too.

I think I paid ~$50 for inner tie-rods for both sides, the tool was ~$65 and I decided I like it enough that I'm keeping it.

 

[llamaking122]

if you have a harbor freight they have a remover for 39.99

 

[SHOtimer]

I've done both.

Changing inner tie rods is a breeze compared to changing a rack.

It isn't so much that changing the rack is all out complicated and difficult, it is just that it is so dang awkward. It is best to lower the rear subframe and slide it out the drivers side wheel well. But, in order to remove and reconnect the p/s lines running in and out of the rack is a pain in the butt! Plus you are just covered in p/s fluid.

Inner tie rods you just basically use the tool that shoaz mentioned and unscrew the old one, screw in the new one and you are done.

Doug

 

[NWGRN94MTX]

Another shameless plug. -

Inner tie rod ends

 

[SHObill]

Another shameless plug. -

Inner tie rod ends

Wow, thats a good price! local to me was $35!
Belle Tire charged me $45 & an hour labor=$70 to do mine last week when I went in for a 4wheel alignment on the 89! After just replacing EVERYTHING on the frt end(except the rack) I was not about to tear it apart again & I needed to take to Frankenmuth the next day!

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

sorry Chris, just did this almost 2 weeks ago on the wife's SLO and about 3 months ago on my SHO.

you don't ABSOLUTELY need the tool Eric is talking about, but it makes it a whole **** of a lot easier if you don't have jackstands. plus it's free (with a deposit) and works nice.

i did the set on my SHO with an adjustable wrench, you need one that will go out to at least 1 5/16 or 1 3/8.

hopefully you get lucky and you can grab the shear pins out and not have to bust em like I did on my SHO. that sucked. worst case scenario, you're looking at take off wheel, cut clamps on boots (you'll replace them with zip ties or just regular hose clamps like I did) measure length of full tie rod from the end to the rack, disco-ing the tie rod end, taking out or breaking the shear pins, taking off the old tie rods, putting the new ones on with blue loc-tite, putting the boot on, putting the new end on, and connecting the end to the spindle.

you will need an alignment after everything is said and done, but it will cure the bad vibes (unless the tires are funked too).

the rack is a little more involved. i watched F22RaptorSHO do his, helped minutely. not a terribly hard thing to do but it's got some tight areas and a lot of PS fluid everywhere. i wouldn't be shocked if there is still some soaked into OffroadSHO's shop floor under the lift.

 

[Huntervf]

If your doing the rack, do the inter tir rods ends. Your there, why do the job again?

All the racks I see come with inner tie rod ends

The tires up front are done. The tire on the passenger front has the belts sticking out on the inner edge, so I know that has a lot to do with what I'm feeling in the wheel. Still, I shouldn't be able to wiggle the wheels as much as I can

 

[shotime1994]

hey hunter I have a inner tie rod tool if you wanna borrow it just pay shipping and ill send it to you its from snap-on

 

[rubydist]

Chris, I would do the reman rack, because that should solve your pulsing on turns too. Changing it is a pain because you need to drop the Y pipe and lower the subframe, but its not difficult (unless you have a bunch of rusted fasteners), just a bunch of stuff to do. If you have several jackstands and a good floor jack, and the proper size tools, you will be fine.

 

[SHObill]

Chris, I got a used rack, your welcome to have it. We would have to inspect in on the bench & flush it. maybe just replace both inners to be safe. You know I have everything else we will need to swap it!
You will just have to come down for a day!

 

[Huntervf]

I appreciate that Bill, but you've already got plenty of projects going on!

If I have a power steering leak, it's very minimal as I'm just under the full cold mark on a decidedly cold engine (24 degrees!), and I haven't added any PS fluid in at least a year, perhaps longer.

At this point, I think I'm just going to go with inner tie rod ends and an alignment. The steering has had that pulse since I got the car and it's not really that big a deal to me. Having a properly lined up car that doesn't wear out tires here is the priority, and with the tie rod tool, I suspect I shouldn't have too much difficulty.

hey hunter I have a inner tie rod tool if you wanna borrow it just pay shipping and ill send it to you its from snap-on

That's awesome of you to offer, but I have access to tools locally. Thanks though!

In fact THANKS many times over for all the advice Don't know why this particular repair is balling me up. It's not like I'm tearing down to a CPS or something.

 

[SHObill]

I appreciate that Bill, but you've already got plenty of projects going on!

-Well the 89 is done for now! After the newer clutch install,rebuilt/REenforced tranny,new SF,new LCA's, newer SR's,all new bushings,newer SB end links,new wheels&tires, modified/rebuilt cable shifter-She drives & shifts like NEW!!
-the 95 is pretty much away for the winter & I'm not doing LCA's till I get newer SR's!
-so that just leaves the 91+ to finally finish the upper & Front 100K & put her back on the road!
--so I'm open!! LOL

 

[sperold]

If you are remorseful of missing out on the deal on the rack (sounds like it is $44.00 more that just the inner tie rods), buy the whole rack and just change out the inner tie rods for now, and if you are wrong, you have the $44.00 rack in stock to change in better weather.