Replacing spark plugs and wires

[Bryan Kuban]

Ok, what is the easiest way to get to the plugs on the back side of the motor? Any help is much appreciated.

 

[luigisho]

You can pull the intake to make sure you get it right or..you can contort your hand and get an extension with a spark plug socket (a swivel would help) and get in there. It's a pain but doable.

If you're afraid of messing it up because you can't see, just pull the intake.

 

[Bryan Kuban]

You can pull the intake to make sure you get it right or..you can contort your hand and get an extension with a spark plug socket (a swivel would help) and get in there. It's a pain but doable.

If you're afraid of messing it up because you can't see, just pull the intake.

So if I pull the intake on this why I need to replace any gaskets?

 

[luigisho]

If the intake to head gasket is a mess maybe. There is one on each side. It is metal with a black coating that can flake off. I usually use a coat of gasket sealer spray they sell at all the parts chain stores. Just label stuff on the intake so you don't forget to hook something back up. Not a huge amount of stuff but, first run through, you want to take your time.

 

[rubydist]

You do not need to remove the intake manifold to do this - that's way more work. You need a socket with the right length extension so that the ratchet handle will work in front of the firewall and above the intake. When you put the new plugs in, you use the socket and extension without the ratchet handle to start the plugs so you know you have them threaded straight before you put the ratchet on there.

Now if the last time the wires were run was with the intake off, there is a good chance that you will not be able to pull the old boots through the little space that exists there. In that case I have just cut up the old wires. The proper routing of the wires does not fit them through that space anyway, so there is no real reason to remove the intake.

 

[NoSlo]

The rear spark plugs can be removed by first just removing the vacuum module bracket from the driver's side rear of the intake (12mm bolt), and removing the vacuum hose on the passenger side back. This allows a straight shot down.

The firewall plastic cover comes off by carefully removing the philips screw "pins" from the middle of the three push pins.

To get enough slack for the boot of #3, you have to remove the coil cover, unplug the spark plug wire from the coil, and feed it through a few inches.

One must clean out the plug wells before removing the plugs. At a minimum, air compressor blast out the dirt and seepage. Then just a spark plug socket with the rubber grommet insert that grabs the plug, and a 6" to 9" extension.

Plugs must not be retightened more than 10 ft/lbs, and you must first turn them backwards until you feel them drop straight into the threads.

Replacing the wires requires the intake to at least be loosened and propped up on the driver side half an inch to get them routed through. If you are replacing the wires, or there's oil in the plug wells, it's time to do an upper 60k anyway. The intake manifold gaskets are reusable if the black coating isn't damaged.

 

[rubydist]

My point in post 5 is that you do not have to loosen the intake because proper routing of the wires does not fit them through that small space.

The point above about oil in the plug wells meaning you should do valve cover gaskets is spot on, in which case the intake needs to come off.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

NoSLO has it pretty much bang on. I will add that you need a spark plug socket with a built in universal joint.

 

[Bryan Kuban]

NoSLO has it pretty much bang on. I will add that you need a spark plug socket with a