Removing the lower ball joint (passenger side)

[masho95]

Here's the deal... doing an engine swap on an 89 and everything is ready to go, except when starting to lift the engine we noticed tranny fluid leaking from the passenger side axle. I know it says to remove that axle before pulling the engine but I just thought they said that for clearance issues and I didn't see a problem with it. So we got the tie rod end and sway bar end link off but the lower ball joint DOESN'T want to come out of the knuckle. Car is current supported on the passenger side subframe only with the wheel off, but I don't see that as an issue for it not coming out? Does is sound like we're going to need a pickle fork or whatever tool to seperate the knuckle where the ball joint goes through the subframe?? Any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Edit: Once the engine is out the subframe is getting replaced anyways, so it's gotta come off sometime.

<small>[ February 24, 2004, 04:23 PM: Message edited by: masho95 ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

I use a 4' long 2"x4" board placed on the strut rod with the tip under the subframe. First remove the sway bar link's upper bolt, the tie rod end, the brake caliper, the ABS sensor and the lower control arm bolt from the knuckle.

Then use a large flat-tipped screwdriver or pry bar between the top of the ball joint stub and the bottom of the spindle to loosen the ball joint stub. Use only gentle force on the pry tool to move the ball joint from the bottom of the knuckle as you apply a bit of downward force on the 2"x4".

Now "pop" the axle out of the transaxle using a pry bar or large screwdriver between the transaxle and the axle or CV joint. With the knuckle clear of the ball joint, move the knuckle outward and aft to clear the ball joint. Cover the ball joint seal with a towel to protect it from damage by the dust shield. Suspend the axles from the bottom of the car with wire to minimize the flexing of the CV joints.

To try to move the transaxle (and engine!) without removing the axles from the transaxle will cause damage to the MTX seal and possibly the differential and the end of the axle. On the passenger side axle, you must also unbolt the carrier shaft bearing to let the axle pull away from the transaxle. With enough force, you could damage that bearing too with the axle still trapped in the transaxle.

I see that you chose to remove the engine and transaxle from the top. I must say that you are facing a great deal more electrical cabling and hose work than if you were supporting the engine from above and removing the subframe and transaxle from below. To each their own.

 

[masho95]

Thanks for the reply.. I've now got a couple other things to try to remove that stubborn ball joint from the knuckle. But I think you might have misread part of the post. We are doing an engine swap not a tranny pull. Otherwise I would have just pulled the tranny from below using my homemade engine stand. Just the engine is coming out too not both.

Now that I think about it, since the subframe is getting pulled and replaced too, we probably should be taking the engine and tranny out together through the top... Guess we'll bolt it back up and pull it together.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Actually, it would be even easier just to drop the whole shebang out the bottom with the subframe. I've done it on about 25 SHO's now, and it is by far the easiest way and can be out of the car in under 2 hours.

If the ball joint is still hanging you up, just go to your local AutoZone and get a pickle fork on the loan-a-tool program and do it right. You can also help it a little by prying apart the pinch joint a little with a large slotted screwdriver.

 

[Speedy_91_SHO]

you can also get a long pry bar and put the end of it on the subframe. You should put force on the drag link and it should go right down and pop out.

 

[masho95]

Speedy_91_SHO:
you can also get a long pry bar and put the end of it on the subframe. You should put force on the drag link and it should go right down and pop out.

Sorry I didn't mention it before but that was the method I've always used and it's not working. 3' crowbar under the subframe and forcing down the tension strut. I've done it before on this car when we did the clutch, but it's being REALLY stubborn now. Tried hammering a slotted screwdriver in the pinch joint and tried hammering it in there.. no luck. We'll try a few other things tomorrow morning. And if all else fails I guess we'll try to get a pickle fork. Thanks.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

get a wide screwdriver and turn the spindle in a direction that you can get to the split of the pinch area that grasps the balljoint. Place the screwdriver in the center of this pinch and start pounding away to separate the halves. Then a screwdriver or crowbar in between the axle and balljoint should coax it out enough where you can finish removal by tapping the top of the control arm with a mallet.

 

[SonicRiot]

Remove the nut and washer from the lower arm where it goes through the bushing in the lower control arm. Remove the LCA bolt attatched to the subframe. Get a large crowbar and use a prying motion b/w the knuckle and the ball joint....AFTER removing the pinch bolt of course.

If all else fails, use PB blaster and a big hammer. No joke. Just be careful you don't bend the lower arm.

 

[autobahnsho]

Also, when I've put mine back together a few times, I had to put a pry tool into the part of the knuckle that the pinchbolt compresses and pry it open some.

Whack the arm w/ a brass hammer from the side (ie rear or front of car side) to get it loosened up some.

Then, heave **! with the pry bar, and it should eventually come loose. Good luck. thumb

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Folks, use caution when spreading the pinch joint apart. I specifically mentioned only doing it a little because it is very easy to damage that joint and keep it from securing the ball joint properly ever again. I would never hammer that joint apart.

There are some jobs, like suspension, brakes, etc. where having the right tool for the right job can be important to your safety. The AutoZone loan-a-tool program is great for that, and it doesn't cost a penny except for the deposit you get back when your done with the tool(s).

 

[RStalveyARFF]

cept the pickle fork tool always tears boots. wink