Reinforced mounts, in engine still rocks

[Dr.Evil]

I put some reinforced mounts in and the engine still rocks pretty bad, and sometimes I can hear it clunk back down when taking off. It is actually worse now with these mounts than with the old ones. What is the deal? could the tranny mount make the engine rock like that? I can see it lift up a good 1-2 inches when just moving it into the garage with the hood up.
If not the tranny mount, what else could it be?
Thanks

 

[SHO--ripper]

how are your subframe bushings? This may sound like a dumb ? but are all the bolts in your motor mounts?

 

[billyshoe]

Reinforced mounts do nothing to modifiy the engine movement.

.

 

[Blue-By-U]

I believe the extreme versions do limit movement. If you were driving with bad motor mounts for a LONG time and didn't replace your tranny mount, it may cause some clunking.

<small>[ July 24, 2003, 02:46 PM: Message edited by: Blue-By-U ]</small>

 

[SHOMurph]

Its a good idea to replace your motor mounts along with your subframe bushing mounts.

If you still have the original subframe bushings that would be one of the first mods to do.

Mine just crumbled apart when I took them out.

Aluminium ones are awesome.

 

[Dr.Evil]

Subframe bushings are the rubber pieces between the frame and floorpan, right? They looked ok. I will go ahead and replacet them anyway, along with the tranny mount.

If the motor mounts don't do anything to stop engine movement, than what does? Those roll dampers? shrug

 

[Machspeed]

billyshoe:
Reinforced mounts do nothing to modifiy the engine movement.

.

They do if yuor old ones are broken.

 

[masho95]

Dr.Evil:
I put some reinforced mounts in and the engine still rocks pretty bad, and sometimes I can hear it clunk back down when taking off. could the tranny mount make the engine rock like that? I can see it lift up a good 1-2 inches when just moving it into the garage with the hood up.
If not the tranny mount, what else could it be?
Thanks

Which side of the engine is lifting? Anything more than an inch is unacceptable. If the front right is lifting when testing it in first then the front mount is bad. If the right rear is lifting while testing the mounts in reverse then the rear mount is bad. And if the left side moves while either in 1st or reverse the tranny mount is bad. I've also seen an incorrect SFB nut installed wrong cause a bad clunking while taking off in first. If you go and replace the SFB's be sure to change out the bolts and the nuts if at all possible. It's better insurance for down the road.

 

[Bizzy]

A good way to check for bad subframe bushings is to watch the engine for movement when turning the steering wheel. If it flexes back and forth when doing that your bushings are toast.

 

[Dr.Evil]

"I've also seen an incorrect SFB nut installed wrong cause a bad clunking while taking off in first."

Can you please elaborate on this? I do have a noticable clunk while taking off in first...
Thanks!

 

[91 SHOplus]

How's your intake look? Do you have rub marks on it?

If so, which way are they going?

Looking at the intake - An up/down rub would indicate your MMs. A left/right rub would indicate SFBs.

I had a BAD clunking under my floor pan. I could actually feel the sub-frame hitting the floor, under my feet. New SFBs fixed it right up.

 

[Bizzy]

Even when I had 2 of kirk's reinforced mounts in the front and rear of my engine I would still get an occasional clunking noise. Turns out that it was my tranny mount being the only place for movement to go, so it was really getting lol bent outta shape. Soon as I put in one of kirk's tranny mounts, mu engine dosent move more than 1/2 in in either direction.

It actually makes it hard to start from a dead stop in touring tires in the rain cause with my AL SFB's and the reinforced mounts all the way around it puts 100% of the TQ to the ground right away. It's almost too much well not really but it is a different kind of ride.

I would seriously have someone jump in yout car with the parking brake on and thier foot ready to hit the brake, hood up. Have them put the car in gear and let up a little on the clutch. You'll quickly see if anything is moving on the engine. If the engine looks to kinda slide forwards or backwards (not up or down) then it is most likely SFB's that are going or loose. You can alsot check the TQ on the SFB's which I think are supposed to be at 75lb/ft.

I did some work on a guys 160k mile 95 and the rear SFB's were at 25lb/ft on my TQ wrench. His subframe was wicked loose.

If you need replacement bushings I'm thinking about running another short GB for AL SFB's here in about a week. Plenty of ppl have my bushings buyt no-one seems to comment in the vendor feedback as to how they like them. Guess nobody likes me :-(

 

[masho95]

Dr.Evil:
"I've also seen an incorrect SFB nut installed wrong cause a bad clunking while taking off in first."

Can you please elaborate on this? I do have a noticable clunk while taking off in first...
Thanks!

Sure, when my friend and I did his clutch we had to replace some of the subframe bolts and nuts. When my friend went to put the new nut on (the passenger rear side) and installed it upside down, with the flat part of the HD nut facing up and the raised portion was facing down. Almost everytime he took off in first you could hear a loud clunk (I'm assuming the SF was moving and putting force on the nut). About 2 months later he was going and told me that his subframe was hanging in that corner. At first I assumed that the subframe bolt broke, but when I looked at it the raised nut portion seperated from the flat part (originl nut, new bolt). Just make sure all the nuts are on correctly. All you have to do pull up the carpet (for the rears) and look at the nut. The raised part should be facing up.

 

[Dr.Evil]

The front of the motor (when looking at it from the front of the car, or front intake tank) is lifting up at least 2 inches. I do not know what way the rubs are because I have protectors over that area of the intake.
I checked the subframe bolts and all were at 75F/P or more. But I did notice rub areas around the back ones where it looks like the SFB were rubbing on it. Is that normal?
Also, I could not find in the helms, but what are the torque specs on the motor mount bolts?
One more thing...could the roll dampers cause it to move a lot?

 

[JoeHoe_SHO]

Roll dampers are basically the same and torque converters right? If so, I've heard that they are mainly to stabilize the engine a little more when matching engine speeds, or something like that.

If I were to ever get HD Motor mounts, I would go w/the Kirked ones...does he make a tranny mount? If not, I would go w/Kirked motor mounts w/SHO NUT HD tranny mount.