Rear Sun Shade

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kryptto

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Soooo you're saying there's a market for it lol. I remember old ford truck window motors used to have plastic bushings that would crumble, everyone used nuts to fix it. Endless options now with the printer. I'll work on it and if I come up with a success I'll present it here. I could see an upgraded drive motor but not sure about a whole assembly.
Next is the pos actuator for the AC and Heat though if I recall it's the motor.
 

SHOrod

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I had some time to do more research today and I found all of this to be true. the Carbon Fiber while it does add some rigidity is highly abrasive and minimal in carbon fiber content so it would seem its more for aesthetics. There is also a nylon/carbon fiber filament that was interesting but it is extremely expensive. I will likely attempt one in nylon in the coming weeks, a friend had suggested casting, create a mold out of pla and wax to for aluminum which I can melt easily without a forge or invest in a forge, he has machining background so we discussed it and I may in the future attempt making an aluminum replacement gear for the sun shades.
Casting would be a good option, and probably yield long term happier customers if you were to supply these to others. If you opt to print them out of nylon, be sure to keep the nylon dry!

-Rod
 
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Casting would be a good option, and probably yield long term happier customers if you were to supply these to others. If you opt to print them out of nylon, be sure to keep the nylon dry!

-Rod
I have a dry box for filament as well as a bunch of silica pouches i put in the airtight bags for storage. I will definitely offer the nylon gears for sale if I am successful, cast gears may be a ways off simply because of it being a new frontier to me. I am stacked to the gills for the next several weekends with 3d prints and family arrangements so it will be February before I can even take the sunshade apart to replicate the gear in CAD. Plan is to be on ebay with everything by late march
 

mooniesdl3

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Carbon fiber filled nylon is actually a great option as it is stiffer than just nylon. Yes it requires a hardened nozzle but it is much easier to print once you are setup for it than nylon. It warps less during printing. I have a printer setup for the high temp high abrasive filaments and I can say it’s worth the difference if you need the rigidity. I print PA12-CF
 

Greg Winokur

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I've heard of it failing but I've been fortunate enough (knock on wood) that mine still works. I can tell you that the fuse, at least on my 2012, is #41 - Delayed Accessory Feeds. I would have never known that but I accidentally found it while wiring a dash cam and panicked when the shade wouldn't go down after I pulled that fuse.

Maybe you'll get lucky and it's just a blown fuse.View attachment 93030

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So if I pull #41 fuse, it will disconnect the shade? Mine goes up and down fine, but when I put it reverse first time of the drive, I get a loud clicking noise, that stops shortly but is annoying. After the first backup of that drive, it doesn’t do the clicking again until the car is turned off, and I start a new drive. 2010, 198,600 miles since new! Love the car!
 

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Joshw0000

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So if I pull #41 fuse, it will disconnect the shade? Mine goes up and down fine, but when I put it reverse for time of the drive, I get a loud clicking noise, that stops shortly but is annoying. After the first backup of that drive, it doesn’t do the clicking again until the car is turned off, and I start a new drive.
Yes. The fuse title implies it may power other things but , at least for me, my rear shade wouldn't cycle without it in place.

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So if I pull #41 fuse, it will disconnect the shade? Mine goes up and down fine, but when I put it reverse first time of the drive, I get a loud clicking noise, that stops shortly but is annoying. After the first backup of that drive, it doesn’t do the clicking again until the car is turned off, and I start a new drive. 2010, 198,600 miles since new! Love the car!
Could always just pull the plug to the motor, should be under the package tray somewhere
 

SHOrod

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Carbon fiber filled nylon is actually a great option as it is stiffer than just nylon. Yes it requires a hardened nozzle but it is much easier to print once you are setup for it than nylon. It warps less during printing. I have a printer setup for the high temp high abrasive filaments and I can say it’s worth the difference if you need the rigidity. I print PA12-CF
My concern with the CF route is not so much the setup of the printer but the possible abrasive impact to the mating gears in the sunshade. I'm not sure the marginal increase in strength would be worth the possible increased wear to the mating gears.

-Rod
 

kryptto

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My concern with the CF route is not so much the setup of the printer but the possible abrasive impact to the mating gears in the sunshade. I'm not sure the marginal increase in strength would be worth the possible increased wear to the mating gears.

-Rod
gotta say this, having the gear as a replacement part even made from nylon, and not having to pay $800+ is worth me getting back there once hopefully every 75K to replace a crap engineered gear. Rather pay $25 to JYMS every 50K miles or so based on that replacement cost.

Now since I never replaced mine, how easy is it to replace the gear in the broken stock part?

1737399441416
 

Majestic

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So I've been running my mouth about this like I actually know something.... Evidently I do not because I just looked at the gears online and they are actually brass.
 
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So I've been running my mouth about this like I actually know something.... Evidently I do not because I just looked at the gears online and they are actually brass.
Brass from the factory?? If that's the case CF might be a good alternative replacement. Without having the worry of wear on contacting plastic gears. I'll figure something out, maybe it'll work. Like @kryptto said, anything better than the $800 replacement. If I ultimately cast it out of aluminum or bronze I think it'll still be an upgrade, brass is still a soft metal.
 

bpd1151

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I did just dig mine out from storage right now.

For an $800 replacement, perhaps I was wrong to offer to give this away for free.

Hahaha.

Again, still worked when I removed it from my rear shelf in order to have all the audio installed into my SHO.

If this dubious gear is right in the center of the unit, mine appears to metal.46531a1257abb5144d21e327f61111fb5c903bb18f6360bb88975dcb9069c08033a673a537bf7a862aa3017ecdf2f86842688e9f960d9deab4efa99991eae5b4

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Majestic

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Brass from the factory?? If that's the case CF might be a good alternative replacement. Without having the worry of wear on contacting plastic gears. I'll figure something out, maybe it'll work. Like @kryptto said, anything better than the $800 replacement. If I ultimately cast it out of aluminum or bronze I think it'll still be an upgrade, brass is still a soft metal.
The replacement motor is available for ~$80. I was reading elsewhere that several people just flip the gear 180 degrees from where the broken tooth is. But, yes, brass from the factory is what it appears to be. Mine never gets used, thankfully.
 

kryptto

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The replacement motor is available for ~$80. I was reading elsewhere that several people just flip the gear 180 degrees from where the broken tooth is. But, yes, brass from the factory is what it appears to be. Mine never gets used, thankfully.
same, just down. though it does kick in during reverse to "force it is down" so its a matter of time I am sure
 
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Oh, I guess I'm in the same boat.

-Rod
In all fairness no one would've guessed they actually used metal parts. I remember working on full size broncos the big glass in the tailgate used the standard window motor, plastic gears and bushings. And that was for a large piece of tempered glass, I'm impressed they used brass but nonetheless it still fails.

After looking at @bpd1151 picture it looks riveted and not very disassemble/reassemble friendly, I might try to snag a salvage one for research rather than taking mine apart.
 
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