Rear brake trouble?

[SHOketer422]

OK, recently had to put new rear brake caliper and pad on passenger side...got everything back together, seemed to run ok...this was about a month ago...just got done putting in injectors and knock sensor, put everything back together, good to go...im drivin around, and i don't seem to have any low end power, i really have to rev it to get goin...get home, the brakes are not just hot, theyre smoking, literally...i let em cool off, jack up the car, spin the wheels myself to see how bad it is, and they spin fine...i pump the ebrake a few times, no problems, they still spin fine...i loosen the ebrake cable, thinking that after i put in the new pads, maybe it affected how much the cable length should be...driving the next day, and the same problem, only worse, both wheels, smoking, a lot...i disconnect the ebrake cable entirely...driving home, had to stop several times because i smelled smoke, waited till they cooled off, then kept going...whats going on here!!!???

 

[93redATX]

Just as an FYI, when the rear end is jacked up, the rear brakes are NOT getting the full amount of fluid they usually would due to the brake proportioning valve. This could be effecting your results when you've got the car jacked up, since you've pretty much ruled out the e-brake. Other than that, though, I've got nothing to offer, as it is a pretty strange problem

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Try re-bleeding that caliper. You may have a collapsed brake line going to that caliper if you get little or no flow.

 

[Camarok]

possibily.......it is possible that you got a poopie caliper

 

[SHOketer422]

ok, i dont get much flow at all but how can i tell where the brake line is collapsed? and why would it collapse? do i have to replace the whole brake line, up to the master cylinder? its not the new caliper either, i think its mostly or all on the driver side caliper, which hasnt been touched and has a good amount of pad left...i rebled the passenger side brake, and not much came out, but that one seems to be working fine...

 

[projectSHO89]

Did you compress the driver's side read suspension as you were already advised to do? If not, do that first. You have to have good fluid flow to the calipers for them to work.

If you did, then focus on the rear brake lines. The bracket that holds the line to the strut rusts on the inside of the bracket. This causes the bracket to expand inwards and pinches off the fluid flow to the caliper. When the brake pedal is released, fluis is supposed to flow back out of the caliper towards the MC. If it is pinched off, the hose acts as a check valve and the calipers stay engaged.

Replacement hoses (just the 18" or so section) cost around $20-25.

Sometimes the caliper slide pins freeze up. Check them for freedom of movement.

Sometimes the caliper itself just freezes up. Time for a new caliper in that case.

Steve

 

[SHOketer422]

ok, i had the car on jackstands, off of the pieces that go from the h-brace to the back wheel, what are they called i forget? annyway, so i had the jackstands on those, close to the wheels, and took the ********, so they should have compressed the suspension enough, no? i mean, how else could i do it then, if not like that?

ill check those brackets, that seems like a good cause of the problem, considering im in NJ and everything else on the car rusts...