R&R rack and pinion?

[MADDOG11]

I've checked for other threads and have not been able to find the info I'm looking for. I've got a 92 MTX with what I believe is a right outer rack and pinion seal that is puking everywhere . I neeed to know is this a job easy enough to do on your back with hand tools and if so does anyone have the R&R instructions that say more than "remove rack and pinion and replace seal"? Thanks, Kevin.

 

[sdpatt]

It is not so difficult as it is dirty. Check the AutoZone.com Repair Guide section for the Chilton's Manual procedures for R&R of the steering rack.

 

[MADDOG11]

It is not so difficult as it is dirty. Check the AutoZone.com Repair Guide section for the Chilton's Manual procedures for R&R of the steering rack.

Found the information however, I must ask again is this a job for hand tools and in the driveway on your back? Is an over engine support needed/recommended? Also, an alignment is also needed after this correct?Thanks, Kevin

 

[dstig1]

You do not need to support the engine, just get the car up on stands to remove the front wheels. Air tools always help but are not required for this. I did loosen the subframe bolts a bit to drop the rear of the subframe 3/4-1" to give a little more access room, as I was told it would help. Only did it once so I can't tell you if it was easier than not doing it. The subframe bolts are very long and have a long engagement with the nuts so you have some room to drop it slightly.

The worst part of the job, by far, is accessing the PS hydraulic fittings on the rack. There is very little room to swing a wrench to get them off, and it is even harder to get them lined up correctly so you can get the threads started when putting them back on the new rack. The seals that are in the fittings make them very hard to turn by hand to get them started, which adds to the fun. I think I did mine over parts of 2 days. One to remove, wait for new rack to come in, trade-in the core and get new one, then part of a day to reinstall.

Don't forget to keep the 2 rack attachment nuts and the outer tie rods, as the new rack does not come with them (mine didn't). Autozone - was about $215ish for a Cardone reman rack. It is good to have your old rack there to compare with the new one and make sure it is the correct one.

Helsm manual was very complete and easy to follow.

 

[MADDOG11]

Thanks for the info. I'm actually going to pull the rack and take it to Raven P/S rebuilders here in Denver and have them reseal it, thus eliminating the problems of an incorrect steering gear. My cost to have it rebuilt will be $135.00 (lists for $230.00) thanks to my many years/contacts in the automotive indusrty (parts and service) and hopefully will never have to go back to (ie. the automotive industry).

 

[TYSHO]

The worst part of the job, by far, is accessing the PS hydraulic fittings on the rack.

That's odd, that was by far the easiest part! For the lower one, I slipped a wrench on it from underneath and tapped it loose with a hammer. For the upper one, I used a cresent wrench and reached in from the wheel well, that's a straight shot.

Now, the hardest part for me was that pinch bolt to the steering column! It won't be hard the second go around, as I ripped that rubber crap off from the inside of the car and have a straight shot at it. But now, I'm having a hard time reinstalling that piece on the rack, it seems to not want to slide over and I have used **** and everything. I'll be ripping the column out from an ATX, as I'm using a VAPS rack in a non-VAPS car, hoping maybe that it's just a bigger diameter from the VAPS unit or a different pattern.

 

[dstig1]

I only could get access through the wheel wells and it was one of those 1/8-turn at a time deals. What was harder was getting the hydraulic fittings aligned and started. Once started, it was just time to turn them down, one micron at a time.

I had to do a bit of tapping (OK, closer to pounding) to get the steering gear into the column shaft.

 

[TYSHO]

I only could get access through the wheel wells and it was one of those 1/8-turn at a time deals. What was harder was getting the hydraulic fittings aligned and started. Once started, it was just time to turn them down, one micron at a time.

I had to do a bit of tapping (OK, closer to pounding) to get the steering gear into the column shaft.

There's a brake line that you can go behind to allow for more than 1/8th turn at a time, I was getting like half turns at a time. Maybe it's because I used a cresent wrench which would be shorter than an 18mm wrench.

I found out about those fittings, I cross threaded the lower one!

As for the column shaft and rack, I grabbed the shaft from the VAPS car and I had it on within 1 minute, I guess the patterns are slightly different, or the size. It's easier to remove the whole thing from the upper steering column[one 13mm bolt] and install it on the rack, then reinstall on the upper piece.

 

[dstig1]

Yeah, that really stinks, dude. Sorry to hear it.

On the steering gear to shaft connection, I just think the tolerances on the rebuilds are not-so-close...

 

[AL]

hopefully a totally unrelated question;
my brother has a 93 MTX that lost a ton of PS fluid. he refilled it and it leaked out. is a rack and pinion replacement the only likely solution, or is there a seal or hose that may have broken that can easily be replaced?

 

[Minnesho]

hopefully a totally unrelated question;
my brother has a 93 MTX that lost a ton of PS fluid. he refilled it and it leaked out. is a rack and pinion replacement the only likely solution, or is there a seal or hose that may have broken that can easily be replaced?

There is no way to possibly know u nless you look to see where it is actually leaking. it could be leaking from countless places on the rack, the lines them selves, fittings or the ps pump. You're gonna have to look to see where its coming from. as there is more than one place it could leak from.

 

[Minnesho]

Air tools are not required for this.

Some cars are easier than others. My old 92 I had to hammer on the rack mounting bolts for some time with a 1/2" impact. Then again I live in the rust belt, but my car was suprisingly rust free.

 

[firstgen89sho]

FYI, the pinch bolt pattern is the same from 1989 through 1995, there are no differences. you can take a 1995 VAPS rack and install it in a 1989 SHO....

the only diffrences in racks are in the older (1986-7) Taurii, and the difference was in the port sizes, other than that, there are no differences, execpt for the turning radius and VAPS from a older to newer Taurii rack

 

[dstig1]

Minnesho, I live just about across the river from you (i think), so i am dealing with the same environment. Air tools are not REQUIRED for this job, IMHO, but always make life easier. They sure make getting exhaust stud nuts and suspension nuts/bolts off easy...