PTU Drill and Tap

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Iqoniq

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I'm curious. The studs that screw into the turbo housing and hold the turbo and the downpipe together came out when I removed the nuts. Is that supposed to happen?

Should I just get new studs and nuts?
 

Iqoniq

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I'm not sure why I removed the rear downpipe ... that was stupid. Anyway, I removed the front exhaust from the downpipe this evening. That's actually all I ever needed to do - all the drama with bolts would've been avoided.

Well, you learn something new all of the time. I'm planning to drill the pilot hole in the PTU in the morning.

Sorry I'm dragging ass on this. If I had started in the morning, from scratch, and the two bolts holding the front exhaust pipe to the downpipe don't stick, I could've been done by noon or early afternoon, I think. This isn't that complicated of a process, really.
 

Kevin81

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I'm not sure why I removed the rear downpipe ... that was stupid. Anyway, I removed the front exhaust from the downpipe this evening. That's actually all I ever needed to do - all the drama with bolts would've been avoided.

Well, you learn something new all of the time. I'm planning to drill the pilot hole in the PTU in the morning.

Sorry I'm dragging ass on this. If I had started in the morning, from scratch, and the two bolts holding the front exhaust pipe to the downpipe don't stick, I could've been done by noon or early afternoon, I think. This isn't that complicated of a process, really.
Ah, but since you went through all the trouble of dropping the down pipe...thermal coat it. That's the only thing I haven't done yet, because I'm planning on just replacing mine next summer.
 

Iqoniq

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I'll do that when I get new downpipes. No sense in worrying about it with this set. They actually already have heat shielding on them and I have some heat shield wrap too.
 

luigisho

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Nice! You have the backround music and the stones to drill into that thing. Soon as i saw those jackstands you read my mind with the recall.
I love the 18hrs to refill. You get a vent method please post it back or link to the vid if you make another with a refill mod.
Great stuff.
 

luigisho

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I'm not sure what the size of the vent opening and how secure the tubing is secured at the ptu. I was thinking of 2 things--you could use a small pump from the top to move the fluid faster and not sure if that would push the tubing out of the unit down there. Also thinking of a tube inside tube vent but I'm not sure how effective that woud be. It would take up inner diameter and not sure if it would be effective.
 

Iqoniq

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I'm thinking about putting a ****** on the stock fill hole, and running some aluminum tubing off of it with a cap. This would allow you to pour the gear oil in from the top, plus you wouldn't be able to over-fill the case. Using metal would allow me to decide where overflow drains to, as well.

I'm also going to find a small reservoir to hook the vent tube to up in the bay, giving it a clean factory look and replacing the goofy funnel.
 

Iqoniq

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The first idea probably wouldn't work, @luigisho But the second one would, in theory. If my idea doesn't work, I'm going to try the tube in tube.
 

Michigan-SHO

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Feaf6b8bea826232ed50d8110e90b42e
If you were able to use one side of this diverter for an air outlet and one as an oil inlet would this work [mention]Iqoniq [/mention]? You would be able to block off both when not in use for refilling...


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Iqoniq

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Maybe. I'm not sure ... it's worth some investigation. I'll pick one up and run an experiment with clear hose so I can see the results. It doesn't prevent overflow like my idea does, but it theoretically is neater in terms of how it sits in the engine bay.

Technically, you can overfill your engine with oil, too, and nobody does that, so maybe I should stop worrying about it.
 

Michigan-SHO

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Maybe. I'm not sure ... it's worth some investigation. I'll pick one up and run an experiment with clear hose so I can see the results. It doesn't prevent overflow like my idea does, but it theoretically is neater in terms of how it sits in the engine bay.

Technically, you can overfill your engine with oil, too, and nobody does that, so maybe I should stop worrying about it.

Hahaha maybe you are right. However if you are confident in the fluid amount you have in it now, just measure the amount removed through the drain plug and replace it with the same amount. That should keep you pretty dang close. The diverter valve should speed up the process of filling the PTU by allowing air pressure to exit out of a separate hose instead of having to travel through the oil.


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FREAK_SHO

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Isn't there a fill plug on the side? Why not remove that when using the funnel. Once it begins to trickle out, you know it's full.
 

Iqoniq

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@FREAK_SHO There is, and that's where I'd put a ****** and tubing to route the overflow drainage where I wanted it, instead of dripping down the side of the PTU like it would if you just opened the old fill plug. If the end of that tubing ended up under the PTU where the new drain plug was (I'm gonna call the drain plug the Caliber Plug), you wouldn't have to cram your hand up between the exhausts to try to get to it.

In theory, you would remove the Caliber Plug, drain the oil, put the Caliber Plug back in, remove the cap on the overflow tube that sits right next to the Caliber Plug, go to the engine bay, pour your ~16 oz of fluid in the refill reservoir, and replace the cap on the overflow tube.

And yeah, @Michigan-SHO , that valve might very well work. I might be trying to over-engineer a clever solution to achieve what I wanna achieve - an "oil change simple" PTU setup. I need to remind myself, "Sometimes simple is smart."

Sometimes. :bonk:
 

Sho_Ride

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Great video! I built some home made stands out of some scrap 2x12’s and 2x10’s so it’s sitting level about 18” from floor just for the purpose of tapping a drain plug. This is the first video I have seen showing in detail how to do this so thank you for doing it. Can you please tell us where you got the magnetic drain plug and part number? Also, did you tighten the plug all the way or just partially so as not to interfere with any gears?
 

Iqoniq

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Per Zpak:

1/8"-27 NPT Industrial Magnetic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002A378M8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

GlowShift 1/8-27 NPT Drill & Tap... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CA91AIK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

As for tightening it, you want to leave a few threads out in order to accommodate future tightening, but even if you tightened it all the way, you wouldn't hit the gears. Also, I sealed it with some high-temp rtv from Advance. Don't use locktite or anything. I'll try to remember to take a pic of the sealant I used when I get home.
 

Sho_Ride

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Thanks for the additional info, I am going to get it done sometime this week but right now I’m opening up 4 boxes with some New Shelby CS1 20x9 wheels in matte black. I’m totally lookin forward to seeing how they look on my SHO!
 

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