Plug change procedure.

[armerdan]

I looked all over the forum but did not find a plug change procedure that did not involve pulling the intake manifold.
So here ya go. You will need; a 3/8" drive 5/8" spark plug socket, a 3/8" drive knuckle, and a 3/8" drive extension about 6-8" long.
You may have to remove the solenoid / check valve for the secondaries, to get enough room for you to be able to reach the wires in the back to pull them out. I highly recommend doing plugs/wires at the same time, mainly because I can never change my plugs without screwing up at least one wire.
Attach the knuckle directly to the spark plug socket, and the extension to the other end of the knuckle.
I found it quite easy to change the plugs in mine, it only took me about 45 minutes, now that I have done it I could probably do it in a 1/2 hour or so.
Only other things to remember are, make sure there is no oil in plug wells, and do yourself a favor and check compression while you are there, there is never an easier time.

 

[Redline]

Good info! I have learned that a flex-head ratchet will also work well.

 

[platoribs]

I've got a question for you...

Since plugs are good for ~50K miles and the wires more, isn't it a good idea to pull the intake anyway so you can look around, check the plug wells for oil, change the VC and PW seals, route the wires carefully, etc, anyway?

I'm not slamming your write up and the first time I changed them I did it with the intake in place. But it seems like an unnecessary shortcut.

Any other opinions?

 

[AREA 91]

Nice write up! Practice makes purfect. I can change all 6 plugs with the intake on inbetween rounds at the drags!

 

[PAracer]

It also helps to remove the plastic shroud at the back of the engine bay.

I recommend using compressed air to clean out the plug wells before you remove the plugs. Also, if you are assuming that you will not be changing plugs at short intervals, use a little anti-seize on the threads. Boot release or dielectric grease is important to use on the boot end of the plug.

********As with any spark plug/ wire work. Be sure to use the correct chart to get the wires in the right place. There are bad diagrams out there. I know for fact that this page is correct. http://members.bellatlantic.net/~rbruce/sparkplug.htm *********

 

[mosho89]

A guy I used to work with told me you had to jack the motor up to get to the back plugs. But I did just like you did and it was fairly simple to change the plugs. It took me about 40-45 minutes to do also.Its hard to see what you are doing but not that difficult at all.BTW I got my alternator replaced finally,didnt have to loosen any bolts on the tensioner, just put a ratchet on the bolt on tensioner and turn it like you are tightening bolt and it swings down to loosen tension on belt. Wish I would have known earlier so didnt stress on it for 2 days while waiting for my alternator to come in.

 

[jon93]

Look Familiar?
http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3sparkplugs.html

 

[somedude_001]

what is a U-joint/swivle/knuckle for? maybe this is for the manual cars because their engine is set back farther.

You may have to remove the solenoid / check valve for the secondaries, to get enough room for you to be able to reach the wires in the back to pull them out.

remove the 12mm bolt to remove the entire bracket so you don't cut yourself. also remove the large hose to the left of that by sliding the hose clamp back a bit and with some twist action and a bit of tugging it will come off. WARNING this is the vaccume supply line for your power brakes DO NOT forget to re attach this.

and there is no reason to check your compression while your in there that is just more opportunity to get dirt in your cylinders. compression checks just add more I NEED A NEW ENIGNE I ONLY HAVE 90 PSI ON 3 CYLINDERS threads. when infact it is just a miss reading.

so you don't mess up wires when doing plugs put a dab of dielectric grece on the connector for the sprakplug wire. this will eliminate corrosion between the sparkplug and wire, and lubercate them for easier removal.

 

[shotyme92]

A local Ford tech recently informed me that the SHO engine is also very picky about the plugs gap. If the gap is too large the system will find a closer ground.... through the wires.

 

[Ashley_MTX]

We definitely found oil in my plug wells (back ones) when changing my spark plugs so it's probably not a bad idea to check the seals if it's been a while. As for the gap, most cars are picky about that-- but the SHO Phoenix Project does list as part of the 60k write-up what they should be gapped at.

It's nice that people are still filling in things that may need to be updated- thanks!

 

[AREA 91]

Stock plug gap is .042-.046

 

[bubba]

When I replaced mine, I was doing to 60k anyway.... I gapped mine .042, but Boat wanted his gapped at .044.... I've seen them gapped at .050, and the car didn't like it that well... came to life when regapped!

 

[Irish Pride]

I found oil in my plug wells today so it looks like i'll be doing plugs, wires, and valve cover gaskets all at the same time.

 

[Brian Mullins]

i was wondering if its possible to change the spark plug wires while leaving the intake on?

 

[Devin]

Yes. With the right attachments, you can change the plugs as well.

 

[Brian Mullins]

Yes. With the right attachments, you can change the plugs as well.

Thanks

 

[NoSlo]

On my 93 ATX, I recently decided to swap spark plug wires, and for the life of me, couldn't get the front bank (4-5-6) wires out without popping up the intake a bit, although I don't think I've had to before.

The plug ends wouldn't fit through the gap under the throttle body where they are routed, and I couldn't get wires past the hose that connects the front intake plenum near the throttle body - there was just not enough space between the intake and the valve cover chain lump. Finally ended up undoing all the intake bolts and took off the front driver's intake support, and lifted the intake enough to get the wires out to the front of the engine.

Never have had to do anything too tricky to change the plugs, except for taking off the butterfly vacuum reservoir bracket as previously mentioned, although the boots for #3 and #6 need some extra slack to get them out of the plug wells by disconnecting those wires on the coil end first. The large vacuum outlet hose on the back of the intake kind of blocks a straight path to #1, so push that hose out of the way or disconnect to be sure the plug goes in straight.

Protip: before removing plugs, use a funnel to pour a bit of gasoline or diesel in the plug wells first, and use a vacuum pump with really small straw on the end of the hose (like from a wd-40 spray can or the straw inside a windex bottle). Stick the hose down to the bottom of the well past the plug, and suck all the crud out. Put an air compressor nozzle down in the well, cover the hole with an old towel, and blast the last of the grit out.

Torque plugs to a mere 10 ft/lbs.