Permatex and Valve Cover Gaskets

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brucebender

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Hi Guys,

I really need some help. I have replaced the valve cover gaskets on a 92MTX and twice now I have oit leaks.

Do you need to let the permatex set up for awile or do you just put it together?

And do you put the bolts in until they're dead or do you leave them with play in them? I'm not over tightening the bolts, just enough to make them snug.

Advice I love!

Bender
pittsburg:oogle: :oogle:
 

Ishodu

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Are you trying to reuse old hard rubber seals? Or just putting the dabs of RTV in the proper areas?
 

38SHO

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where are you putting the permatex at? I'm sure your referring to RTV gasket....

I've seen some pics somewhere of someone putting RTV in some spots for changing the valve covers... I wish I could find that again and see where they put it.

In my job I've probably changed thousands of gaskets literally, some use RTV and some use a paper, cork, durapreene, what have you type of gasket. Its always been taboo and a good rule of thumb NOT to use RTV applied onto a regular paper or cork type gasket because it will cause leaks and prevent a good seal..... pretty much use one of the other. More is not better here.

ALSO, allow RTV to dry for a good 15 minutes before it is exposed to moisture. Some types will not dry if fluid touches it and it will leak in that spot.
 

luigisho

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You're only using it in the recommended areas and not everywhere right? ARe the mating surfaces clean of the old stuff and not damaged? I usually make sure the mating surface is clean and free of oil, apply the rtv, and fasten the covers with no play in the bolts. Pressure from the bolts allows the rtv to set without potential gaps. I wouldn't start up the car and expose the vc's to oil or pressure for a while... until the rtv was 100% cured. As was mentioned, are you reusing some rubber seals that might have dried out and now can't perform properly?
 

rangerj

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Are you using the old style "Permatex", or a form of RTV? If you have neopreme or RTV gaskets then the only sealer you should be using is a small amount of RTV in the fron and rear corners where the camshaft caps are (where the caps and the head meet). The valve/cam cover bolts should be torqued to specification and tightened starting from the center and working outward.
 

Off Road SHO

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RTV (AKA Room Temperature Vulcanizing) silicone exudes acetic acid and absorbs moisture from the air to vulcanize. You should only use it at the points where the cam journal meets the head, six places on our cars.

Tom
 

brucebender

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Thanks!

Hi guys,

In regard to the questions, I was using a new set of Fel-Pro gaskets. When I took the valve covers off, the spark plug seals were as hard as a rock, whereas the seals along the covers were still pliable.

This is my fourth attempt. No b*llsh*t. I will not give up. I started the engine after I finished my tries and it purred like a kitten. But I am so beat up by the repair, that I gotta heal. Is heal a four letter word? ha ha ha

This is a funny thought though, When I started taking the engine apart, I felt a certain reluctance to continue, but I have had the thing apart, and now I know where everything goes. I could, without hesitation, pull open any SHO, and do this. By now I need your prayers. I went out an bought a new tube of Permatex. In a day or two I'll continue.


Thanks guys for the advice.

bender
pittsburgh.

:thumb:
 

luigisho

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Just make sure all the old stuff is removed and wipe the mating surface with something like acetone to remove any residue before you install/apply new stuff.
 

brucebender

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Thanks boys!

I thank all for the good advice. Something I noticed when I took out the vc's, the old gsket that goes around the cover was perfect. I am going to put it back in. I figure that had been in the car for quite some time and it's in good condition. However, the new gasket is flawless also. I figure, correct me if I'm wrong. I was going to put some permatex very heavy. This is my fourth attempt, and i'm losing faith.

Thanks again guys,

bruce bender
Pittsburgh:salute: :salute:
 

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