parking brake keeps sticking

[TheKrazyRaven]

it seems since the sudden prop in temp my parking brake likes to stick and not let go when i pop it

could the caliper be f'ed or could it be binding somewhere?

 

[SHOtimer]

My first thought would be your adjustment mechanism. Since you kinda 'manipulated' it to do what you wanted it to do in a way it wasn't supposed to do it in. I would inspect that and make sure that whatever you did isn't what is causing it to bind.

Doug

 

[TheKrazyRaven]

My first thought would be your adjustment mechanism. Since you kinda 'manipulated' it to do what you wanted it to do in a way it wasn't supposed to do it in. I would inspect that and make sure that whatever you did isn't what is causing it to bind.

Doug

i thought that too at first but when it would stick i'd look at it and the nut wasent stuck up agianst that metal thing so i dunno where it could be binding

 

[spazmoid]

I had the same problem, and my rear brakes were dragging and making lots of heat, but only after i used the parking brake. I had to have the rear return brake lines replaced because they had collapsed and were not letting the brake fluid flow back away from the calipers.

 

[TheKrazyRaven]

I had the same problem, and my rear brakes were dragging and making lots of heat, but only after i used the parking brake. I had to have the rear return brake lines replaced because they had collapsed and were not letting the brake fluid flow back away from the calipers.

back brakes and my SHO dont mix, they were replaced 100 miles before i bought the car the whole works lines calipers rotors pads, then 5k ago they were replaced AGIAN at my expense this time the whole 9 yards agian the calipers were F'ed

now this

 

[Slo-Sho]

It's probably the rear cables.

 

[TheKrazyRaven]

where would you get a replacement cable?

 

[Slo-Sho]

An auto parts store. Pick one.

 

[rangerj]

Rust on the e-brake cables swells and the cables stick in the case or sheath. It is possible to get sticking e-brake cables to free up by soaking them in diesel fuel. But, if you go through all the trouble of removing them it would be quicker, and less work, to just replace them.

Coat the new cables with a lubricant that will stay in place, eg silicone, red grease, heavy duty bearing grease , anti-seize compound, etc. Coat as much of the cable as you can and work the lubricant into the sheath by sliding the cable back and forth in its sheath.

A common indicator of sticking e-brakes is the dragging brakes. It is also indicated by an e-brake pedal that will not return to its full up position, and the light will stay on. Granted, this can also be because of a weak pedal return spring. But, when this occurs it would be wise to check the e-brake cables.

Also check your slider pins. If you remove them, coat them with a light coating of silicone grease. rangerj

 

[TheKrazyRaven]

An auto parts store. Pick one.

it just a generic cable? i searched on the autozone site and it came back with nothing

 

[Slo-Sho]

Wagner Part # 129201 ($12.99)for the RH

and part # 138085 ($13.29) for the LH. Prices are quoted from www.rockauto.com

 

[TheKrazyRaven]

Wagner Part # 129201 ($12.99)for the RH

and part # 138085 ($13.29) for the LH. Prices are quoted from www.rockauto.com

you wouldent happen to know NAPA part #'s would you?

 

[TheKrazyRaven]

ugh i cant find the damn cables anywhere online for the local part stores :wtf:

i wanna get this fixed this weekend

 

[Blank-Disk]

i would check the spring that pulls the parking brake away formt eh wheel. mine is rusted to **** and back.