Parasitic Battery Drain '14 - Have a question.

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kryptto

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I have been noodling this issue I have - car sits in garage and even before the pandemic had it on a maintenance charger - never drove it much. I have a daily driver - been working on projects replacing the MYFord Touch for a newer system - then started with the typical upgrades to the engine. Thermostat - cold range plugs - new CAI - 3 Bar MAP - HP Tuned.

All that being said - this car has been maintenance charged - but once I put it back on the road started having issues with the battery staying charged. So I swapped it with the Costco Interstate AGM. Same issues - however when not driving the car I pop the hood and put the Noco maintenance charger on the battery while attached to my system, as a matter of fact I have been charging the battery for years without disconnecting the battery. Laziness...

So this car has a hood switch - to detect the hood open. Can someone confirm if that switch is detecting the hood open, that the computer is not powering down and causing my drain?

I am about to start pulling fuses - however reviewing the instructions for testing for drain - everyone says make sure that all doors/lights even wireless fobs are away from the car.

Can I be causing my own issue not ever latching the hood?

Thanks all.
 

Majestic

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Did you reset the BMS when replacing the battery? Also, you don't want to connect the trickle charger to the negative post.
 

SHOdded

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if you disconnect the negative batt cable while charging the battery, that should reset the bms also. a regular charger is recommended for this min 6a capability. should be capable of at least 10% rated Ah capacity if agm battery.
 

kryptto

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Did you reset the BMS when replacing the battery? Also, you don't want to connect the trickle charger to the negative post.
No = on the Taurus how do I do that? And yes I charged it the wrong way Pos to Pos Neg to Neg while the posts were connected. Yes - I am that dumb.
 

kryptto

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if you disconnect the negative batt cable while charging the battery, that should reset the bms also. a regular charger is recommended for this min 6a capability. should be capable of at least 10% rated Ah capacity if agm battery.
YOUR BATTERY INFORMATION

Item Number 1421403
Group Size 65 AGM
CCA 750
CA 935
Voltage 12
RC 120
Ah 68

I have the Noco5 = https://no.co/genius5

So maybe I should of bought the Noco 10A?

When I performed a repair this AM using the Noco5 - deep cycle recharge - ran a tester and it came back fine slightly over 13V.

Since I performed that deep cycle charge - I just drove her a few miles. Going to see what happens by tomorrow AM. I am still concerned, that when I was keeping the battery on maintenance that the hood switch was depressed since I never fully closed the hood. I know the car has systems that might stay awake and maybe drain the battery.

I know for a fact that you cant remote start the car with the hood open, as a safety measure. Other than that that switch doesnt turn on a hood compartment light, so maybe its keeping the computers on.
 

kryptto

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Carry out the BMS (Battery Monitoring System) Reset using the scan tool after the battery is connected, if the battery has been replaced. If the BMS (Battery Monitoring System) Reset is not carried out, it takes approximately 8 hours for the BCM (Body Control Module) to learn the new battery state of charge. During this 8 hour period, the vehicle must be undisturbed, with no doors opened or keyless entry button presses. If the vehicle is used before the BCM (Body Control Module) is allowed to learn the new battery state of charge, engine off load shedding can still occur and a message may be displayed.

I own a

OBDLINK MX+​

And a license for FORSCAN - i assume I can reset it through Forscan
 
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Majestic

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Carry out the BMS (Battery Monitoring System) Reset using the scan tool after the battery is connected, if the battery has been replaced. If the BMS (Battery Monitoring System) Reset is not carried out, it takes approximately 8 hours for the BCM (Body Control Module) to learn the new battery state of charge. During this 8 hour period, the vehicle must be undisturbed, with no doors opened or keyless entry button presses. If the vehicle is used before the BCM (Body Control Module) is allowed to learn the new battery state of charge, engine off load shedding can still occur and a message may be displayed.

I own a

OBDLINK MX+​

And a license for FORSCAN - i assume I can reset it through Forscan
Yes, Forscan is what I use.
 

SHOdded

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the noco5 is fine. i thought it was a 1a maintainer lol.

i assume you mean forscan lite? idk if that can reset the vehicle bms or not, as neither of mine have bms, so i will have to rely on other folks' input there ...

forscan for windows with extended license can do everything, well pretty much. idk if it can reset bms without the license.
 

kryptto

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Hey thanks all - I used Forscan Licensed version and reset the BCM - now it will be a waiting game to see if it creeps up again.
 
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kryptto

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Found this for all others wondering about Hood Switch on SHO affecting the BCM. Morale of the story, don't leave the hood open even though there is no hood light,computer stays on.

Screenshot 20230325 190603 Chrome
 

kryptto

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Hey folks,

So I am back to troubleshooting - anyone have a suggestion for how to keep a door open yet trigger the door sensor to think it is closed. I know someone said pull the fuse. However if I don't know if the problem is a door switch or something powered on the circuit. Just looking for anything that works. Thanks al.l

Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
 

kryptto

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Hey all... so fcked... hooked up my meter and parasitic battery cable. Drawing 0.95 amps, needs to be under 0.05.

Went to Costco yesterday and swapped out battery - brand new and tested with my tester.

Pulled out the cosmetic panel under the steering column. Then unscrewed the steel shroud to get to the horribly placed fuse bus. Jammed all the way up on the left side left fender wall.

Pulled all fuses and relays - under the hood and in the cabin. Even the fuse which was a bitch to get too for my aftermarket SYNC3. NOTHING made the drain stop.

Thoughts folks? I need something here, getting defeated... I have a battery tester, charging is fine at 14.5V, however is the alternator really good? Calling all mechanics...

Thanks all.

Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
 
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kryptto

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SO an update on this thread - The Sync3 upgrade is drawing nearly 2 amps - car on or off. I deal with a great local shop = even though I pulled fuses - the short in the Sync3 display unit - had to be taken all apart and singled out as the cause. (Who can beat $150 for that work) The vendor from Amazon - who I highly recommend using - just sending me another unit. No hassle - no questions, called me quickly after posting message, appreciative and very helpful.

Well will bring to the shop on Fri and have my car back on Sat after they test the replacement unit. Thanks all for the helpful hints!


Product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096SDTJ7X
 

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