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rangerj

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Additional thought,
Proper bleeding sequence is RR, LF, LR, RF. The brake cylinder is a dual safety master cyliner. The dual piston provides braking pressure to one front and one opposite rear caliper each. For those doing a car with ABS brakes do NOT use a vacuum bleeding tool on ABS. If you do not have the proper tools for an ABS system bleed them the old fashion way.
 
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nc89sho

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rangerj said:
If you changed the master cylinder and it is from another model year did you adjust the actuating rod length from the pedal to the master cylinder? The rode comes through the brake booster and pushes on the master cylinder pistons.
not a different year. it is listed as 89. it's just diff. and i believe the rod is adjusted correctly. the pedal is firm when not running but sinks once the car is cranked... typical of a failed mastercylinder, or possibly (i'm starting to think) and incorrect mastercylinder. Todays update:

both rear calipers changed. parking brake is much smoother now. however pedal feel has not changed. next step: Locate the correct master cylinder and change it and the booster (booster is old anyway) and redo the line i hade to change to make the other fit.
 

pjtoledo

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One of the guys here in Toledo had a similar brake issue a while back. He eventually tracked it down to a prior leaking MC that filled the booster with brake fluid.


Perry
 

nc89sho

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pjtoledo said:
One of the guys here in Toledo had a similar brake issue a while back. He eventually tracked it down to a prior leaking MC that filled the booster with brake fluid.


Perry
hmm... interesting.
 

NoSlo

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I still didn't get the exact technique you used to bleed the brakes, but would suggest ditching the speed bleeders if you haven't already. I'll give you my procedure if it helps.
To bleed mine I first crack the always-sticky bleeder and tighten it back up loosely so it's ready to go. I put a very tight fitting nylon clear hose on the bleeder and put the other end of the hose down in a clean glass jar with a bit of fluid already in it. Tight-fitting means that after the hose has brake fluid in it, with the bleeder closed you can put a vacuum pump on the end of the hose and not see bubbles coming into the hose from around the bleeder. It may also help to cover the bleeder threads where they screw into the caliper with a blob of silicone dielectric grease to make them airtight.
Start by sucking old fluid out of the brake reservoir if you have a pump and refill with fresh fluid (you don't have this problem with all the fluid you've put in there recently.) With the brake caliper's hose submerged in the jar, crack open the bleeder just enough that fluid will flow (less than 1/2 turn), then start the car so you have boost to help you, pump the brakes once or twice and check the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir vs. how much more is in the jar - NEVER LET THE BRAKE RESERVOIR GET BELOW 1/2! (this is easy with ABS because of the bigger reservoir.) With the end of the hose submerged in fluid, even if you do get 'suck back' when you release the pedal, it won't be sucking air back in to the caliper.
If you have persistent problems with symptoms indicative of air in the system, you might have an air bubble in the lines that just won't come out the other end. You could try 'speed flushing' (tm) to force it through the lines - with the bleeder open even more, have the car started for boost and have a buddy ready to pour quarts of brake fluid in the reservoir. Then just pound the **** out of the brake pedal repeatedly while pouring brake fluid into the reservoir until the system has pumped through a quart or two of fluid - the high speed should hopefully take any bubbles out the other end.
 

nc89sho

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lines and master cylinder have been manually blead, vacum blead and power blead (using a power brake bleeder that is awsome)

For the record. raybestos part# MC39771 is the correct master cylinder for the 89 SHO. it's available through Rockauto.com

and the fitting sizes are M10x1, M12x1, M10x1, 7/16 x 24

what the **** was ford thinking??
 
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nc89sho

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Update****

problem is fixed. i attribute most of it to the fact that the mastercylinder is impossible to blead on the car. but i replaced the MC and the booster anyway. (went back to 89 MC).. what i've learned is this.. If air ever getts into the MC you MUST remove it to blead it. because it is an angle mount air getts trapped in the top end. anyway. all is well once again and i'm now looking strongly forward to the new autocross/ roadracing season.
 

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