OK, major problems...water pump dead...need some advice.

[Mike92SHO]

OK, my SHO just rolled 140k last week. The former owner stretched the 60k service to 80k...so I am now in the service zone. The water pump was replaced at the last service.

This weekend I noticed some puddling under the car. I thought it was the radiator since I have always had one of those slow leaks that requires a top off every once in a while.

Now, get ready to flame me...because I deserve it. My cooling system looks like crap. My coolant is a turd brown from adding plain water and not enough coolant. To add to this, I added some stop leak today. The result...dead water pump. The puddling was the water pump going. I was on a 2 lane bridge (the Causeway to you New Orleans people) when it went. I had to drive a good 2 miles with the needle pegged in the hot zone until a crossover. The car literally died when I pulled off finally...it was miserable. Luckily, I don't see any permanent damage. It will start up and run fine but no water is circulating.

I need a new water pump. I am handy and I work on my own cars...I have built several 5.0s, I have a 300 RWHP SVO right now etc. However, I have never worked on the SHO. I dug around to find some intructions on changing the pump and all I can say is HACHI-MACHI!!!! oh_my oh_my

It looks like a murderous job. This is my only current mode of transportation (the SVO is in pieces). I have 2 kids and I am going through a divorce. Money is tight and I do not have access to the 2 year old PT Cruiser that I pay for every month. I need my car and I need it bad. But, I only need it for about one more month...when hopefully my financial situation is going to change drastically and I will be able to move on. My SHO has given me great service, and I love her...but she is in the window at this point for me. She just needs to carry me for one more month.

I know I am rambling because I am really upset...so let me cut to the chase finally. Can I get away with just doing the pump....or must I do the timing belt as well? I know I should do the belt but it really looks like this procedure is going to **** me...and it is already 85 and 100% humidity down here in Louisiana.

Can someone explain to me the pump only procedure?

Can someone quote me about what Ford would charge me to change the pump and all belts...with parts?

I could pay for it...but it will drain my bank account in a most nasty way.

I am desperate here and near a nervous breakdown.

Please help!

Mike

 

[LI_SHO]

do it yourself....its not that hard. I did it by myself in the snow during mid february and it took me a total of 5 or 6 hours to do. you dont HAVE TO take off the timing belt to do it, but as many will say it is advisable that you do.

EDIT:
you drove all that way with it in the red...pray you didnt warp the aluminum heads!

<small>[ May 01, 2003, 09:10 PM: Message edited by: LI_SHO ]</small>

 

[luigisho]

You have 2 conflicting wants here. Pick one that's more important. 1. Saving money and working in the heat/humidity or 2. pay a good deal of money for others to do it for you.

I would accumulate the parts and set aside a block of time to do it yourself. It is not dificult, but it will take many hours to do it the first time through. If you are in there for the waterpump, replace the timing belt, crank sensor and seal. You don't want to go back in there anytime soon if you can avoid it. Aftermarket parts will not break the bank for this.

 

[DavidT]

you can get a remanufactured water pump from Rockauto.com for something like $40 thumb
Check out shotimes.com AND use the search feature on this sight... should tell you all you need to know thumbup
I am an idiot with NO mechanical skills, and I just recently had my water pump OUT... replaced all seals and O rings.
If you are good... 3-4 hours maybe shrug
I agree... Driving in the red that long=not good.
Hope you get it fixed. Hope thats not all thats wrong...

 

[Mike92SHO]

Well, it had finally gotten into the red about 1/4 mile before I got off the road. It was not happy either way...it was pinging like a mother. But, I took it around the block and it seems fine now.

The good news is...my Ex is actually giving me back my PT for as long as I want. So, I am going to let the SHO rest for a while while I wait for this upcomming auction I have some merchandise in. If all goes well, I won't have to worry. If it does not go as planned...I can have the SHO fixed by then if I work a little at a time.

Thanks for the advice.

Mike

 

[sdpatt]

You have an MTX and it has been 60,000 miles since the last 60K so you are due for the service anyway: timing belt, accessory belts, water pump and it would be well advised to replace the front main crank seal and CPS too. Look here or search for "60K parts replacement intervals" in this topic to see the part numbers and lowest cost sources.

I had to drive a good 2 miles with the needle pegged in the hot zone until a crossover. The car literally died when I pulled off finally...it was miserable. Luckily, I don't see any permanent damage. It will start up and run fine but no water is circulating.

THAT is an excellent way to **** a SHO. You will be very lucky if you didn't warp the heads. Say your prayers.

<small>[ May 01, 2003, 11:03 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[drdave]

Armed with Scott's list of parts and prices, I was able to get all of the 60K parts, including cam seals, from O'Riely for $192.00 including tax.

I got to watch Scott do some of the service, and it did not look terribly difficult. The hardest part seemed to be the rear cam seal.

Good luck.