Oil pan leak driving me nuts (virtually)

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platoribs

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I've virtually installed (SHOYA is actually doing the work, but he's too embarrased to admit it) the oil pan three times, used different RTV's (the orange, and another one) and each time there's still a leak along the side. Careful examinations have revealed nothing unusual on the mating surfaces?

Is there some magic goo that assures a tight leak free seal?

Please share your experiences.
 

yamahaSHO

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I've never had a problem.... Maybe you should look a little harder for any issues.
 

SHOtimer

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I've done it twice - never had it leak. I use a razor blade to completely scrape clean each surface and then use brake cleaner to ensure it is all completely clean and ready for the RTV. I have always used new rubber seals on the ends... You want to make sure there is no oil on the mating surface. Apart from that - I have always used the Ultra Black RTV from Perma....i don't remember the rest of the name, but they are the standard RTV company. Don't skimp on the RTV and make sure everything is clean first.

Doug
 

platoribs

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I know it's a little cryptic above but this thread is to jump start SHOYA's getting new ideas cause he's installed it three times, used two new gasket sets and two different types of RTV and still leaking. As y'all know he tends to be pretty meticulous which is why we're both stumped.

I was thinking about if you applied the RTV to both mating surfaces so you are assured of the RTV to metal seal then you're just mating RTV to RTV surfaces.

He and I have discussed this quit a few times and can't understand why it's being so stubborn.

Perhaps the leak is from above? Clean thoroughly (again), pull pan, inspect above the pan/block seal, find the *** **** leak, use a new tube of perma black, and button it up?

I want to get it back to PHSHO and start dolling it up for the convention...:nut:
 
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Howdy_Doody

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My car went from being a rolling Exxon Valdeez to clean and green after changing my oil pan gaskets. I followed the procedure at shophoenixproject.com and it came out perfectly. Read up and see what you might be doing wrong.
 

93rev2sev

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Spread RTV on the block rails and pan rails only after cleaning them with acetone and a handheld wire brush.

Apply RTV to rails in thin coats. One coat on pan and one coat on block.

These coats should be thin enough that you can almost see through them. The little indents in the rail of the pan should be filled completely with RTV.

ALLOW RTV TO FLASH OFF!!!

let it sit there for 20 minutes or so until it firms up and does not stick to your finger.

Install pan and snug the bolts/nut all the way around with a nut driver...very little torque. Careful placement of the pan on the block will help avoid smears.

Then, go around again and apply some torque(with a rachet) until the RTV starts to squeeze out the side. Do not follow any sort of torque setting...just squeeze the RTV a little...all the way around.

Allow the RTV to cure for at least 24 hours...if your crankcase ventilation is clogged, the pan might be under pressure and the seal you just worked so hard for can be blown out.
 

AREA 91

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Are you sure there isn't a burr or nick on the oil pan? I've never had a oil pan leak on a SHO. The last thing I can think of is that you may be hitting the pan on the CV shaft, when you go to install it on the block. It get's tight towards the pass side. I only use Permatex Black for the SHO.
 

zak

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Is it leaking on the side with the oil pressure sensor above? (rear bank), if so that might be the actual culprit
 

93rev2sev

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Well, if it's not the pan....

In the rear it might be the pressure sender. In the front it might be the oil cooler to block gasket.

Both are pretty easy to take care of.
 

platoribs

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are you guys using the 2 rubber seals at each ends?

One gasket set, two gaskets, one gasket each end. And then after the leak was discovered another kit, with two new gaskets, one new gasket on each end, after removing the first set of gaskets and disposing of them.
 

SHOWYA

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Are you sure there isn't a burr or nick on the oil pan? I've never had a oil pan leak on a SHO. The last thing I can think of is that you may be hitting the pan on the CV shaft, when you go to install it on the block. It get's tight towards the pass side. I only use Permatex Black for the SHO.

Yes, I even sanded the oil pan mating surface with 320 grit just to be sure.
Cleaned it with oil and grease remover on oil pan and block.

are you guys using the 2 rubber seals at each ends?

Yes, Used 2 brand new sets.

ALLOW RTV TO FLASH OFF!!!

let it sit there for 20 minutes or so until it firms up and does not stick to your finger.

Install pan and snug the bolts/nut all the way around with a nut driver...very little torque. Careful placement of the pan on the block will help avoid smears.

Then, go around again and apply some torque(with a rachet) until the RTV starts to squeeze out the side. Do not follow any sort of torque setting...just squeeze the RTV a little...all the way around.

Allow the RTV to cure for at least 24 hours...if your crankcase ventilation is clogged, the pan might be under pressure and the seal you just worked so hard for can be blown out.

I did this then after i was done i pushed the car off to a side and literally let it sit for 3 days so it would completely dry.

The first times it leaked from under the crank gasket. After this last time it did not leak from where it did the first and second time. But this last one it leaks from the side around the same area.

I did mine on my car with no problems a while back.

I'm going to check the lines that go from the valve cover to the TB make sure they are not clogged. This makes sense why the gasket might blow out. After each time on first start up it will take a few seconds before it started leaking.
 

93rev2sev

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Is this a 3.0 or 3.2?

I have a 3.2 pan in the basement if you need it. I'll never use it. Gimme shipping and it's yours. PM me if you wanna try it.
 

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