Oil in my Plug wells

[It's SHO Time]

Well toady i started replacing my 5 speed transmission with my new rebuilt one, and out of no where i decided to pull my plug wire off and in my #4 well there was a little bit of oil so im like o'crap so i decide to pull the #5 and it was so full of oil that I could not even see the spark plug, and decide to get on here before seeing the other and was wondering what this might be and if it's easy to fix.
thanks for your help guys. boink

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

How many miles on your '94?

Has it had its 60K?

 

[Bizzy]

Common problem. You need to get well gaskets. For the time being you can soak up the oil in the wells. Get the oil out of there before you put the plug wire back on. These parts can be found at most auto parts stores, SHO Nut or FPN.

Good luck!

Edit: You have to pull the cam covers to replace the gaskets. Very simple proceedure.

<small>[ January 25, 2003, 04:40 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

its very easy to fix, just takes some time. its your plug well seals. the whole kit with the valve cover gaskets and plug seals is out there for 120 bucks (im sure of this, i just bought one for my 60k). if you have never done your 60k you might as well do it while the covers are off instead of spending another 120 bucks in a few months for new gaskets for it. or at least do the "upper" 60k (valve lash, gaskets).

<small>[ January 25, 2003, 04:41 PM: Message edited by: BlackOnBlackATX ]</small>

 

[SHOZ123]

I've got an even easier fix. Plug the PCV line going to the valve cover. It will create a slight vacuum in the crankcase and stop most but the worst of your oil leaks.

 

[haydenm315]

I had the oil in the plug wells problem and I was using a quart of oil per 800-1,000 miles or maybe less depending on how I was driving. After doing the 60k with a felpro gasket set I added less than a 1/4 quart last time I changed the oil. I'm one of those people that always fears the worst and thought it would be more complicated. It was darn easy to fix and I'm all proud of it now

 

[It's SHO Time]

My car has 103,*** miles on it and in like may or june is when I was going to do my 60K because then I will be out of school and can work on it for how ever long it takes, by the way does any one know like the cost on the parts for the 60k because my step dad is a mechanic and we have a 5 million dollar shop to work in, so if I know the rough cost of it I will be ahead of myself.
thanks guys boink

 

[rendyx]

I'm planning on doing my valve lash soon. Here's a breakdown of the costs I'm expecting:
1. Plugs - $30 (Ford Parts Network)
2. Wires - $80 (FPN)
3. Fel-Pro gasket set - $71 (Autozone)
4. Valve shims - $60 (SHOnut)
5. Odd supplies (RTV, carb&choke cleaner, etc.)
6. Labor (varies, but why not do it yourself or with a friend?)

<small>[ January 25, 2003, 11:09 PM: Message edited by: rendyx ]</small>

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

SHOZ123:
I've got an even easier fix. Plug the PCV line going to the valve cover. It will create a slight vacuum in the crankcase and stop most but the worst of your oil leaks.

bs


That line is there for a reason... PCV means Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

You plug it and you are asking for blow-by.

NOT a fix... squint

 

[AutoSHO]

NotSoSlowSHO:

SHOZ123:
I've got an even easier fix. Plug the PCV line going to the valve cover. It will create a slight vacuum in the crankcase and stop most but the worst of your oil leaks.

bs


That line is there for a reason... PCV means Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

You plug it and you are asking for blow-by.

NOT a fix... squint

No, actually, his fix works perfectly fine. There are 2 hoses for the PCV. The hose he is talking about plugging provides a fresh-air inlet, and forces fresh air into the crankcase. The line under the throttle body, which should be left alone, is the actual crankcase Vent. By plugging the line to the valve cover you eliminate the positive pressure on the crankcase and instead draw a slight vacuum on it, helping improve seal life and decrease static pressure on them. This is a perfectly acceptable fix, but I would not perform it permanently, as I am a firm believer that yamaha's team of engineers knew more than I do about the motor and its inner workings.

 

[Jr's Sho]

So Shoz123 and Chris, all you do is remove the vacuum hose that hooks from the front valve cover to the TB and plug both ports? Can you leave it like that for good and not worry about anything? Is this also where some people install a catch can?

 

[SHOZ123]

I have mine plugged. It only creates about 2" Hg. Just enough to keep the oil from going out the seals. It also greatly reduces the amount of water condensate which is introduced with the fresh air drawn in normally. This water will mix with oil to form a nice yellow sludge that helps to coat the insides of the intake and butterflies with gunk through a process know as "burning off".

A catch can would be installed on the larger hose that goes to the base of the TB. This way the oil vapors go into the can and condense there rather than the intake.

I would think that the perennial problem of oil in the plug wells is a good indication of a very poor PCV design. The oil is being forced into the plug-wells by high crankcase pressures created by cylinder ring blow-by. The V8 has the very same design plug well seals and does not suffer from oil collecting in the plug-wells. It has a valve regulated PCV system like 99% of the rest of the engines in the world.

<small>[ January 26, 2003, 09:52 AM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>

 

[Jr's Sho]

Interesting, well mine is getting plugged today.

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

there was a huge post last week or so that i started on plugging your PCV line. even Ted Breaux does it, so never fear. im sure a simple search will turn it up. it was called "PCV Catch Cans".

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

i just realized i had it bookmarked. here it is if you want to see it.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

okay... shrug


SO you are talking about ventilation tube #1 (from the case) that is being plugged?

Ventilation tube #2 actually introduces air into the head covers (from the throttle body)

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

the line coming from the oil separator in the case needs to be sent to a catch can or breather if you like. the one going into the valve cover (on the front side of the engine gets capped. then the ports on the throttle body get capped as well.

 

[AutoSHO]

NotSoSlowSHO:
okay... shrug


SO you are talking about ventilation tube #1 (from the case) that is being plugged?

Ventilation tube #2 actually introduces air into the head covers (from the throttle body)

NO!

What we have said (at least once) is that the ONLY line that gets plugged is the one from the top of the throttle body to the valve cover. The one under the intake stays. You can, if you like, put a catch can on that line, but it is not necessary.

 

[SHOZ123]

Originally I tried to use an actual PCV valve. This created a whistle and I have abandoned the idea. If you just plug the lines like in this picture there will still be a slight vacuum on the crankcase anytime other than WOT. Been driving like this on my '93 for the last 4k miles. On my '97 I have 10" vacuum on the engine and it has been like that since October with about 5k miles.

This along with an Auto-RX treatment have cut my oil usage in half. I was going to junk the motor but have changed my mind now.

 

[Jr's Sho]

Well, what would be the downside of having this line plugged permeantly?