obnoxious rattle after major repairs!!

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Rob G

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Here we go again, I just completed a lot of work on my car, upper 60k and replaced the rear exhaust manifold. It ran GREAT and still does but now there is a LOUD rattling sound like a bolt being shaken in a tin can kind of sound on the front (accessory) side of the engine. When I checked it out initially the ac side idler pulley nut was about to fall off. So I thought, oh how easy, just tighten it back up and the sound will go away. Well the sound is still there. I used a stethoscope to try to pin point the noise and I can't, I would think it would be something to do with that idler being that there was already a problem. I took all drive belts off and everything spins fine, the waterpump was replaced about 4000 miles ago with a new one so I doubt (and really hope for the sake of my sanity) that is not the problem. Does this sound familiar to anyone??? shrug
 

sdpatt

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Grab those pulleys and check the bearings for play. Check the cats for loose parts with a tap of a wooden hammer handle. We can only give you options where to look. You can follow the noise to its source. Only you.
 

Rob G

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Thanks for the emotional support scott, I need it about now! The waterpump pulley has the slightest amount of play when tugged on but I remember it being that way when I installed it. The front idler and rear idlers are basically the same, slight play, nothing seems out of the ordinary. I will check the cats again, I can't have my car sounding like santas sleigh.
 

BIGSHOMIKE

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I just fixed a rattle on mine turned out to be a loose heat shield on one of the cats, yours sound to be alot louder though.
 

shorook90

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hey rob, I have a question. How did you go about removing the rear exhaust manifold? I am going to be removing my egr system tommorow so I am looking for a way to change the rear exhaust manifold w/o pulling the whole engine. thanks
 

Rob G

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The rear exhaust manifold is a major pain but you will feel like a man when you get done. An overview of the procedure is something like this. Here is a vague description of what needs to be done, mayble I'll do a right up on it eventually, I took some digital pictures in the process. After reading through this I should mention I should say right side instead of rear but you get the picture.
0)drain cooling system
1)remove intake manifold, label hoses and wiring harnesses so you know where to put everything back. Some even recommend taking a picture which isn't a bad idea.
2)remove engine roll dampner strut and battery to give you a little more room to work.
3)remove accessory drive belts
4)remove crank pulley
5)remove outer timing belt covers, I was able to leave the middle one on and therefore didn't have to mess with the CPS sensor wires
6)remove timing belt
7)remove rear cam sprocket
8)remove upper and middle inner timing belt covers
9)remove rear cylinder valve cover
10)remove cylinder head with rear manifold on it (don't forget to remove y-pipe donut from manifold before hand).

NOTES: I have left out a lot of details, most of the major stuff is there, if your going to be doing this kind of work get a Helms! Getting the wiring out of the way can be a major pain, I used nylon string to synch some of it out of the way in certain areas. There is also a metal piece with many coolant hoses under where the throttle body would be that needs to be removed. This piece looks overwhelming at first but it's not too hard to remove. If you need some ideas on how to get past the little annoying crap that seems to take the longest shoot me an e-mail and I would be glad to try and help.
 

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