No Start, no power even with jump...

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

I experienced problems starting my car yesterday morning. I went to start and I had no power, no lights, nothing. Weird thing is that I tried a minute later and it started. As I'm getting ready to leave from work last night I figure I'm going to need a jump. I get the Hotel van and proceed to jumpstart my car. I hook up the cables and let it charge. I turn the ignition and all the lights go out. I have to jiggle the positive jumper cable to get the lights to come back on.

So I finally get the car started and I disconnect the cables. As I open my door to get back inside the car dies. (alternator?) So this time I jump the car and leave my doors open, disconnect the cables and proceed to take it for a spin to allow the alternator to charge. At 2k the tach goes crazy, car starts bucking and the ABS light comes on. No stall though.

From everything I've read it is an alternator problem. I have purchased a new battery and will run new battery cables today. I think this is the only explaination for no power, even while hooked up to the van with jumper cables. I have a new alt on order. I will also check my grounds but is there anything I could be missing?

 

[projectSHO89]

Bad battery cable or connection (either end, either cable).

I doubt that either the battery or the alternator is the root problem.

Steve

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I've had both a bad battery cable connector and bad alternator cause the above symptoms. The giggling the positive jumper cable suggests it's the postive battery cable connector at the battery post.

Repair/replace one item at a time - it will help you diagnose what [was] causing the problem. And if you find the problem early, take back the parts you didn't use !

I would first try cleaning/repairing the positive battery cable connector at the battery if it is loose/trashed/corroded. See if the symptoms reappear.

Drop by Advanced/AutoZone/O'Reilly/[insert your local parts store here] and have the alternator tested, since you're going to have most of the starting/charging system apart. Look for corrosion at the connector that the lead from the vehicle main harness, hooks into. Both the male connector that is part of the alternator, and the female connector that is on the main harness lead can corrode to the point the alternator appears bad (insufficient output, irregular voltage output).

Next, look at the connections at the starter - yeah, the ones that seem to get a constant oil-bath at every oil change.

Replace the positive cable - see if that corrects the problem.

Replace the negative cable - see if that corrects the problem.

Replace the alternator/voltage regulator if it tests bad - see if that corrects the problem.


Oh, and if battery cable is an original Ford OE harness that has not been hacked and you replace it, I would be interested in getting the cable/harness from you.

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

I don't know what an OE Ford battery cable looks like, but I've already taken it out of the car. It's yours if you want it. I'm replacing both the positive and negative cables. I'm not all about crawling under the car twice since the wires go only 6 inches from one another. Just out of suriosity... my negative cable was grounded to the transmission. Is this normal??

 

[ohfosho]

yes the transmission would be a major ground... it could be a connection problem at either or both ends of the cable(s). clean them up with baking soda and water (i think), and a toothbrush...an old one you wont use anymore of course. use a battery terminal cleaner/scraper, to produce new clean metal on the battery terminals, and then you can clean the inside of the connections usually with another end of that same tool. or just use some sand paper, and get some shiny metal. make sure the connection goes on nice and tight. make sure that the battery terminal itself isnt loose... this can happen, and it's time for a new battery. new cables are not that expensive, so if the cables you have dont look up to *****, ***** them into the garbage. (maybe bring them with you to the parts store to ge the right ends, and length.

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

Thanks for all your help everyone! Once I replaced the cables she started right up with no problems. I used 4 gauge replacements.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Yes, one of the ground cables goes to the top starter mounting bolt, which screws-in from the driver's side of the transmission housing. The bolt should be an M8 x 1.25mm hex flanged bolt (IIRC) with a stud-post for the ground cable. The hex bolt for the transmission housing takes a 13mm socket, and the flanged hex nut for the ground cable takes a 15mm socket.

I don't know what an OE Ford battery cable looks like, but I've already taken it out of the car. It's yours if you want it. I'm replacing both the positive and negative cables. I'm not all about crawling under the car twice since the wires go only 6 inches from one another. Just out of suriosity... my negative cable was grounded to the transmission. Is this normal??

I believe OE specs were 3-gauge (positive) and 4 gauge (negative). Personally I would use 2-gauge, or 2- and 3-gauge respectively.

Thanks for all your help everyone! Once I replaced the cables she started right up with no problems. I used 4 gauge replacements.

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

I'm not sure what gauge is OE but the wires I used are definitely bigger.