No Fuel at Rail, can't pull codes, won't start

[Bannonjr]

93 ATX

It was fine one day, then wouldn't start the next..

There is no fuel at the rail, cannot hear the pump prime, checked the fuel cut-off, and tried to scan it.

It can't connect with the vehicle.

Is there any common fuel problems to check first before I will probably end up ripping the bumper off trying to tow it inside the garage?

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

check the fuel shut off switch in the trunk, you probably need to put in a new fuel pump. i just did mine.

 

[Bannonjr]

93 ATX

It was fine one day, then wouldn't start the next..

There is no fuel at the rail, cannot hear the pump prime, checked the fuel cut-off, and tried to scan it.
It can't connect with the vehicle.

Is there any common fuel problems to check first before I will probably end up ripping the bumper off trying to tow it inside the garage?

Thanks though

 

[Off Road SHO]

Thanks though

What do you mean you checked it? The button wasn't popped out? How much voltage is coming out of the fuel shut-off switch? Is there any going to the switch for 2 seconds when you first turn the key to "ON"?

Give us some hints and we can help you out.

Tom

 

[Bannonjr]

ok...ya the button was not popped out...

If I was going to test it electrically, which 2 are the pos and neg to check voltage?

 

[Bannonjr]

Also reading through about ECC testing, but I'm confused about which wires to put in which connector holes..

There are so many threads about fuel pumps/eec's...etc gets confusing when you've never done it before

 

[rbruso]

Did you just look at the fuel cut off and see it wasn't popped or did you actually push down on it to make sure it's seated all the way. On my old '89 I would periodically get a no start and have to wiggle the button down a little. I lived on a long washboard dirt road and it had vibrated up enough to lose contact.

I'd get in there with a multimeter and verify continuity of the switch. It's rather easy to get to and can be touchy. If the switch is okay, verify it's getting good power. If power is going in and coming back out good, then it's on to the fuel pump itself, which is a bit more digging.

Double check the easy stuff just so you're not kicking yourself later. BTDT. No fun to find out there wasn't power to the switch when you have the tank sitting on the ground and you're pulling a perfectly good pump.

 

[Bannonjr]

Ya, I pushed and wiggled the button to be sure...numerous times over a couple days..

From what I read, if I run a wire from the battery negative and the fuel pump slot on the EEC test plug, the pump should turn on? I did that and the pump would'nt, but I imagine I'm doing something wrong lol..

 

[rbruso]

Checkout the diagram at http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes.html

Running a ground wire to the fuel pump pin on that connector should make the pump run continuously when key is on.

If you're not getting power to the intertia switch you're going to need to check the fuel wiring circuits. My wiring diagrams are at home, so I can't check them now to track down which pins to check.

If it's still not running and you have power into and out of the inertia switch, it's time to drop the tank. You might find that the connector there is bad. The plastic can actually degrade from fumes or heat. A pigtail for the pump wiring at the tank used to be available from Ford.

If the wiring is good, check continuity from the fuel pump wiring harness to the fuel pump ground connector on the self test connector. If there's no continuity you'll have to trace the low/high pump circuits in the IRCM. Again, wiring diagrams are at home, so I don't know the pins offhand.

If you're at the point where you have good power and good ground, it's pump time.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Bannon,

Ground the black lead of your volt ohm meter against the steel wall of the trunk's inner wall. Put the red lead on either side of the cut-out switch. With the VOM on the DC Voltage scale of 20 volts, have your lovely assistant turn the key to "ON". If you don't get a voltage reading on one side of the switch, re-test with the red lead attached to the other side of the switch. If no voltage there either, find out why the 12 volts is not getting there from up front.

While you have your volt ohm meter back there, disconnect the wires from the shut-off switch, switch the VOM to one of the OHM's scales, and attach the leads to the terminals of the cut-off switch. You should see 0 resistance. Now with the VOM still connected to the switch, give the inside wall of the trunk next to the cut-off switch a slap with your hand. The reset button should pop out to flush with the button surround and the meter should show an open circuit. Push the reset button all the way back to the fully recessed position and your meter should go back to 0 resistance.

Let us know what you find. Like was stated above, it's not fun or cheap to replace a perfectly good fuel pump.

Tom

 

[Bannonjr]

Great...thanks for the details...I got it in the shop, just letting it defrost...

It was -21c when I was out there...car was a block of ice which doesn't help anything.

I appreciate the step by step details....alot.

 

[Bannonjr]

I actually ordered a new EEC unit from my Napa account...if it turns out not ot be it, I can return it...

So, later, I got a list of things to check...thanks again!

 

[mattsho1993]

did you check the ground on the inner fender the one that goes from the ground to the inner fender.....

 

[Bannonjr]

The car was pretty much an ice cube when I brought it in...so, I'll get to it all...and keep ya'll posted

I appreciate your help guys!

 

[SHOMON]

Check the underhood fuse box. There is a 10amp minifuse that is labeled accy. feed I think. This circuit controls the power to the ccrm.

 

[Bannonjr]

Ok...I just got the PCM in, got a code on it RCM4...hope its good

I'll check that lil fuse also.

 

[Bannonjr]

I tested the intertia switch.

When I put the black wire to the sidewall, and the red on both connections, I got a reading of 0.01 DCV 20 on both, should it be closer to 12v or am I doing something wrong? If not, can I now rule out/in the switch itself?

I also removed the clip, and tested each side un-connected...same 0.01

 

[ViPER1313]

I tested the intertia switch.

When I put the black wire to the sidewall, and the red on both connections, I got a reading of 0.01 DCV 20 on both, should it be closer to 12v or am I doing something wrong? If not, can I now rule out/in the switch itself?

I also removed the clip, and tested each side un-connected...same 0.01

When you did this, did you have the car's ignition in the on and the EEC test plug grounded? I think the easiest way to test for a bad fuel pump or CCRM is to disconnect the plug from the accident cutoff switch in the trunk and run a wire straight from the + battery terminal to the unplugged connector (you need to figure out which wire goes to the fuel pump and which ones goes to the CCRM, connect the + to the one that goes to the pump.) If the fuel pump turns on, then you know the problem is somewhere before the pump.

 

[Bannonjr]

no kiddin eh...ok...I'll do that. I have a charged battery on the floor so I'll run a lead to that and test each side of the unplugged switch to see if I can get it to turn on.

I had the engine on, but didn't have the EEC grounded.

 

[ViPER1313]

no kiddin eh...ok...I'll do that. I have a charged battery on the floor so I'll run a lead to that and test each side of the unplugged switch to see if I can get it to turn on.

I had the engine on, but didn't have the EEC grounded.

You cant just hook the + of a battery on the floor to the + on the safety switch, it wont work. The electricity needs to make a circuit. You can use another battery, but the negative of that battery needs to be grounded to the chassis of the car somewhere.

EDIT: path of electricity =

battery (-) -> car chassis -> fuel pump -> safety switch -> ccrm -> battery (+)
(I might be missing a link in here somewhere, but that is the general idea)

The fuel circle must be complete for the pump to work.