Machspeed
Former 1991+ owner
What do you guys think of Nittos? I here there really good, my friend has them on his 5.0 capri and says they're great. I found some for a good price and want to get 'em...
Nitto Slicks, what do you think?
- Thread starter Machspeed
- Start date
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sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
Scratch - didn't see the "drag" part.
<small>[ February 24, 2002, 09:30 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>
<small>[ February 24, 2002, 09:30 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>
drivinhard
New Member
Are you talking about the drag radials? If so they work very well if you are looking for a drag strip tire. Make sure you have a good clutch (I'm serious when I say that). I ran them tail end of last year after running a year on the BFG drag radials (pretty good tire), but the nitto's are stickier.
shogirl
New Member
This is SHO91MTX... anyways, the BFG's, even the brand spankin new model doesn't compare to the Nittos. My friend's 14psi blown 95 stang has a set of 315's on the rear of the car in the BFG, and he doesn't get traction until 3rd gear, if that. He borrowed a set of Nittos froma lightning owner friend of his, and he had trouble lighting em up. Make sure you have an LSD with them, and some spare CV axles!!!
drivinhard
New Member
The BFG's are still light years ahead of a street radial. I drop'd 4-5 tenths when I started running them last year. Unless it was really cool out (like the night we got together at lebanon) I could pull 1st gear with no wheelspin. The BFG's, as least in the size i was running, had a lot better sidewall shock absorbsion, car was very very consistant. They always did the same thing, everytime down the track. My so far limited experience with the nitto's is they have more ultimate grip, but are more finiky. Not as consistant, and don't have the sidewall the BFG's do. But, it's a lot stickier rubber. When I ran at Reynolds down in GA, only way I could get them hot before a run was to use the water box. Dead dropping the clutch on dry pavement just make the clutch slip. They don't like to get wet though (gets in the grooves), so it's a catch .22
Let me repeat what I said before...have a dang good clutch if you want to run them and plan to really launch the car hard.
Let me repeat what I said before...have a dang good clutch if you want to run them and plan to really launch the car hard.
Would there be any negative effects by driving them a little easy? Or do you just have to really launch hard to get full use? And is my CenterForce clutch a good enuff clutch to take on a pair of slicks in general, or would it be pushing the limit?
The Centerforce clutches for the SHO really aren`t much stronger than stock ones.I talked to a shop that builds s/c SHO clutches and he doesn`t like them a bit.I believe the word garbage was used.So,for large power or drag radials,i`d say it`s a bit too weak.
drivinhard
New Member
It depends on your driving style and how your car reacts. If you are "easing" the car off the line, with some throttle and clutch slip, you shouldn't have a problem. Even if your clutch slips a bit, you have more driver control over it. (you can back out of it,etc). However the nitto's take a real liking (to get the best launch) of just being real aggressive, ie, just wind it up, and drop the clutch. If you use this method, the tires just don't want to spin, so all the stress goes to the clutch. I know the first time I tried this my clutch just took off (got a fairly strong 8 puck high friction disc in there, albiet 9.25" disc with stock clamping force (single spring)). Also I know another guy who was getting some slip using his centerforce as well (stock motor, nitto's).
There is a lot of debate on the centerforce, they claim it's a stock unit, torn apart, spring fulcrum point moved, re-machined PP, (25% more clamping force), HD straps and HD rivets, and a higher friction disc. Flywheel side is pucked, PP side is full material. I dunno though, eyeing a few of them, I'm still skeptical about some of their claims (and also based on some performance). Also they use a full depth friction material. The clutch I'm using uses a thinner section of friction material that's bonded to a backing plate, helps get rid of the heat faster (although you may not get as much mileage out of the disc).
Clutch's are just like tires, and really everything else. Compromise. You gain in holding power, but usually can give up pedal effort, streetability, smooth engagement, etc. Hard to have the best of both worlds.
There is a lot of debate on the centerforce, they claim it's a stock unit, torn apart, spring fulcrum point moved, re-machined PP, (25% more clamping force), HD straps and HD rivets, and a higher friction disc. Flywheel side is pucked, PP side is full material. I dunno though, eyeing a few of them, I'm still skeptical about some of their claims (and also based on some performance). Also they use a full depth friction material. The clutch I'm using uses a thinner section of friction material that's bonded to a backing plate, helps get rid of the heat faster (although you may not get as much mileage out of the disc).
Clutch's are just like tires, and really everything else. Compromise. You gain in holding power, but usually can give up pedal effort, streetability, smooth engagement, etc. Hard to have the best of both worlds.
i've been racing my sho as well as alot of didiiferant cars....seems i'ma better driver thatn a builder...and by far the best street tire that i've seen....is the hoosier pro times.....not the quick times.....but the hoosier pro times.....a regular slick with 2 little groves in them ...just to get by dopt.......and if you can't hook on them.....well give john force his car back..lol...you can find the size that you need...on there site.....and then once you get the part number you can call summitt or jegs or your own local shop...to get them...just use the part number .....later...have fun this year
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