Corey
New Member
I just replaced the TPS, and MAF sensor because I was running a 122, and 157 code. The 157 code is gone, but I still have 122. Does anybody know the voltage that is supposed to be going to the TPS. I get 5.08 volts. Is that right.
New TPS, but still shows code 122
- Thread starter Corey
- Start date
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sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
Did you clear the memory codes by running the KOEO test and pulling the jumper while the codes were flashing?
The normal range of voltage output from the TPS is from a little less than 1.0V at idle to about 5.0V at full throttle.
The normal range of voltage output from the TPS is from a little less than 1.0V at idle to about 5.0V at full throttle.
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
The supply voltage should be 5.0 V
One line should be ground.
The other line, the output, should increase linearly from around .9 V to 4.5 - 5.0 V as the throttle plate is opened.
Clear your codes like Scott said, otherwise you are just reading previously stored errors. DOH!
Steve
<small>[ May 12, 2003, 11:11 PM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>
One line should be ground.
The other line, the output, should increase linearly from around .9 V to 4.5 - 5.0 V as the throttle plate is opened.
Clear your codes like Scott said, otherwise you are just reading previously stored errors. DOH!
Steve
<small>[ May 12, 2003, 11:11 PM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>
rangerj
Active Member
Cory,
The throttle angle position sensor voltage range is 0.6 volts at closed throttle up to 4.5 volts at WOT (wide open throttle). These are approximate voltages with an approximate 15% variation allowance.
The two tests are as follows.
Test 1 VREF - KOEO (Key On Engine Off)
Key off for at least 10 seconds prior to testing.
Disconnect TPS connector
Probe between VREF (voltage referrence) 18 gauge Brown/white tracer wire, and SIG RET (signal return) 18 gauge Gray/Red tracer at the vehicle TPS harness connector (not the TPS).
KOEO
Test Results 4 to 6 volts.
If NOT Check VREF circuitry and wiring.
Test 2
TPS Signal KOEO
Backprobe TPS connector between TPS (Gray/White tracer) and Signal Return (Gray/Red tracer), Move throttle through entire range, that is from closed throttle to wide open throttle.
Test results - Variable voltage from 0 to 5 volts (0.6 to 4.5 approximately) without any breaks as the throttle is moved through the range. ( a break indicates a bad spot in the TPS).
If not - TPS is Faulty.
The color codes for the wires is from a 1990 wiring diagram, yours should be the same, but could be different. The connector looks like a boot with the toe at the bottom the wires from bottom to the top are VREF, TP SIG, and SIG RET. rangerj
The throttle angle position sensor voltage range is 0.6 volts at closed throttle up to 4.5 volts at WOT (wide open throttle). These are approximate voltages with an approximate 15% variation allowance.
The two tests are as follows.
Test 1 VREF - KOEO (Key On Engine Off)
Key off for at least 10 seconds prior to testing.
Disconnect TPS connector
Probe between VREF (voltage referrence) 18 gauge Brown/white tracer wire, and SIG RET (signal return) 18 gauge Gray/Red tracer at the vehicle TPS harness connector (not the TPS).
KOEO
Test Results 4 to 6 volts.
If NOT Check VREF circuitry and wiring.
Test 2
TPS Signal KOEO
Backprobe TPS connector between TPS (Gray/White tracer) and Signal Return (Gray/Red tracer), Move throttle through entire range, that is from closed throttle to wide open throttle.
Test results - Variable voltage from 0 to 5 volts (0.6 to 4.5 approximately) without any breaks as the throttle is moved through the range. ( a break indicates a bad spot in the TPS).
If not - TPS is Faulty.
The color codes for the wires is from a 1990 wiring diagram, yours should be the same, but could be different. The connector looks like a boot with the toe at the bottom the wires from bottom to the top are VREF, TP SIG, and SIG RET. rangerj
Corey
New Member
Ok, I cleared the codes and now I have 111 for both KOEO, and KOER. The problem is the engine is still sputtering, and backfiring. It sounds like it is missing. I can hardly drive it because the power output is so low. It idles ok but it does sputter a little. It doesnt stall and I cant find any vaccum leaks. I did notice though that when I was messing around the sparkplug wire to coil connection with my pliars that a spark arced to them from one of the wires. Would wires cause the engine to run like shit, and backfire. I am at a loss here.
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
I will post this ONE MORE TIME!
A spark misfire without a CHECK ENGINE light is caused by faulty plugs or plug wires.
You have already seen a spark leak, so it looks like you know the answer.
A spark misfire without a CHECK ENGINE light is caused by faulty plugs or plug wires.
You have already seen a spark leak, so it looks like you know the answer.
rangerj
Active Member
Corey,
I assumed that you would have cleared the codes after having replaced a sensor, other component, or fixed a wire or connection, in the engine control system.
So, for the less experienced, clear the codes after any repair to the electronic engine control system. Then test drive the vehicle and re-check the codes in order to determine if the repair solved the problem.
The codes will eventually clear themselves after so many "key starts", but some of the codes will take as many as 50 key starts to clear (some more).
I agree with Scott, if you have a plug wire that is arcing you need a new set of wires. If you grab that puppy and you are grounded you will never forget it!!! eek!
Fordparts on line - Autolite plug wires for the SHO about $85 plus S/H. Replace the plugs also. If the wires are that bad the plugs are most likely fouled. Put anti-sieze compound on the threads of the plugs, and USE A TORQUE WRENCH TO INSTALL THE PLUGS. rangerj
I assumed that you would have cleared the codes after having replaced a sensor, other component, or fixed a wire or connection, in the engine control system.
So, for the less experienced, clear the codes after any repair to the electronic engine control system. Then test drive the vehicle and re-check the codes in order to determine if the repair solved the problem.
The codes will eventually clear themselves after so many "key starts", but some of the codes will take as many as 50 key starts to clear (some more).
I agree with Scott, if you have a plug wire that is arcing you need a new set of wires. If you grab that puppy and you are grounded you will never forget it!!! eek!
Fordparts on line - Autolite plug wires for the SHO about $85 plus S/H. Replace the plugs also. If the wires are that bad the plugs are most likely fouled. Put anti-sieze compound on the threads of the plugs, and USE A TORQUE WRENCH TO INSTALL THE PLUGS. rangerj
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