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kryptto

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Ok so I have been doing a bunch of reading and digging through the forums and this is where I think I am at. Right around 2015 the valve covers on these engines were changed over to a plastic design. I believe this change was made for a PCV system revamp. But there was also a TSB about a revised plastic cover for the firewall side. So what came first? The new plastic covers? Or the TSB for replacing the old style Magnesium cover for a revised plastic one? And then on future models they just went all plastic for both heads?

Then there is the next question that arises from the research. If the valve covers were changed in an attempt to revise or improve the PCV system because of all the blow-by and oil build up on the valves, then does it matter to me? By that I mean, I have read that a catch can is pretty much a must and am thinking I have to get the UPR setup. If I am running the UPR setup then does the version of PCV system in the car even matter? Is the UPR really making the difference so that the cars PCV system is less of a factor?

Thoughts on this?
so a properly working PCV system is crucial to proper performance, and well function of the car. I would NOT want my catch can to be my work around, but a failsafe. So Ford trying to fix issues and your ability to either match their best fixes is crucial other issues dont develop.
 

SHO-moco

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so a properly working PCV system is crucial to proper performance, and well function of the car. I would NOT want my catch can to be my work around, but a failsafe. So Ford trying to fix issues and your ability to either match their best fixes is crucial other issues dont develop.
From what I have been reading, revamp or not, the factory PCV system is ill equipped. I am not talking about eliminating the PCV system or anything. I am just wondering if I will be going the UPR route, does which PCV system (2010-2014 or 2015 newer) is on the car make much difference? If not, as I have been saying I would prefer to use the magnesium covers off the 2010.
 

Ta2dResqr

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From what I have been reading, revamp or not, the factory PCV system is ill equipped. I am not talking about eliminating the PCV system or anything. I am just wondering if I will be going the UPR route, does which PCV system (2010-2014 or 2015 newer) is on the car make much difference? If not, as I have been saying I would prefer to use the magnesium covers off the 2010.
It will matter when you pick your UPR Catch Can. The 10-14 comes with a clean side separator. It is also $20 more (drop in the bucket). If one or the other system matters to you, make sure to weigh that in your decision.
 

SHO-moco

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It will matter when you pick your UPR Catch Can. The 10-14 comes with a clean side separator. It is also $20 more (drop in the bucket). If one or the other system matters to you, make sure to weigh that in your decision.
Yes I did see the different kits per their years. Assumed its different because of the difference in the valve covers and their PCV systems. I did note as some add on's they talk about Billet Pro Series Check Valves for an addition cost. Anyone have any insight on that addition to the kit?

Also, side note: Just confirmed the VIN on the old block that came out of the car... Its the original engine from the car. Made it 186k before opening a window. I thought that was pretty impressive.
 

yaycandy

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Yes I did see the different kits per their years. Assumed its different because of the difference in the valve covers and their PCV systems. I did note as some add on's they talk about Billet Pro Series Check Valves for an addition cost. Anyone have any insight on that addition to the kit?

Also, side note: Just confirmed the VIN on the old block that came out of the car... Its the original engine from the car. Made it 186k before opening a window. I thought that was pretty impressive.
What caused that?
 

SHO-moco

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What caused that?
What caused it to let go? Unsure, havent ripped the old motor apart yet. But at that kind of mileage ... take your pick? Rod let go maybe? I can tell you the car was up to temp and was not being abused or even accelerated quickly. One second going through an intersection, next running rough and clouds of smoke.
 

yaycandy

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What caused it to let go? Unsure, havent ripped the old motor apart yet. But at that kind of mileage ... take your pick? Rod let go maybe? I can tell you the car was up to temp and was not being abused or even accelerated quickly. One second going through an intersection, next running rough and clouds of smoke.
I wouldnt think a rod let it self go in my experience of rebuilding engines. Maybe the oil pump went and caused crank or rod touchdown and then it hit a home run.
 

SHO-moco

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I wouldnt think a rod let it self go in my experience of rebuilding engines. Maybe the oil pump went and caused crank or rod touchdown and then it hit a home run.
It never threw an oil light, not saying that couldnt have happened, just throwing out the info at the time.
 

yaycandy

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It never threw an oil light, not saying that couldnt have happened, just throwing out the info at the time.
Neither did my sho when it was blown and would run out of oil in 10 times. Had fun with it when it blew up. Never any lights.
 

SHO-moco

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Neither did my sho when it was blown and would run out of oil in 10 times. Had fun with it when it blew up. Never any lights.
Well thats nice, great to know I can count on some warning... lol

Guess I will stick with my plan for the Melling's High volume pump and hope for the best.
 

kryptto

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Well thats nice, great to know I can count on some warning... lol

Guess I will stick with my plan for the Melling's High volume pump and hope for the best.
just use the lower pressure spring in the Melling Pump. 85 PSI spring
 

SHO-moco

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So a little update. I started stripping down the engine that I got as a replacement. The more I took apart the more I found broken. Seemed like the motor was dropped at some point between its removal and its being delivered to me. Talked with the company I got it from for some assurances the thing was ran. Come to find out, they never ran it?! So let me get this straight, here is an engine that needs a whole timing set and water pump (and oil pump in my situation.) installed in it BEFORE I can even install it. After that work and then installing it into the car I can then find out if the motor is even good?! So with all the broken pieces and question marks around the thing I told them I could not pay what I paid for it. Said I will keep it and run the risk if they kicked me back some money. They instead decided they will just take it back. So yesterday it was picked up, money back in my account, another engine will be on order here shortly.
 

SHO-moco

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Hey @kryptto, I see you linked a how to on installing a drain into a non PP ptu. Have you done that mod yourself? I was thinking about looking into installing a drain plug in my down time while waiting for parts. While I have the ptu out seems the time to do it.
 

kryptto

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Hey @kryptto, I see you linked a how to on installing a drain into a non PP ptu. Have you done that mod yourself? I was thinking about looking into installing a drain plug in my down time while waiting for parts. While I have the ptu out seems the time to do it.
i was thinking of doing it - however i have not.

There are various TY videos - and a former active member of this forums has a blog on it.

 

SHO-moco

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i was thinking of doing it - however i have not.

There are various TY videos - and a former active member of this forums has a blog on it.


Yea that's the one I had seen you linked. Pretty straight forward, think I will go ahead and do that while its out. Though I would like to open this PTU I have just to see if its nice and clean inside and not sludgy. Any idea if opening the case will require some special RTV like the timing cover does?
 

kryptto

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Yea that's the one I had seen you linked. Pretty straight forward, think I will go ahead and do that while its out. Though I would like to open this PTU I have just to see if its nice and clean inside and not sludgy. Any idea if opening the case will require some special RTV like the timing cover does?
that same blog - he does a limited slip upgrade - see if he has any notes or maybe someone who has opened one before.
 

SHO-moco

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Nothing in that blog about sealant. Dug through AllData but there is no procedure for overhauling the PTU. There is a procedure for overhauling the transmission tho. The transmission procedure lists TA-29 as the sealant needed for the transmission. I am thinking it would be safe to use that same sealant on the transfer case. See any flaws in my logic?
 

kryptto

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Nothing in that blog about sealant. Dug through AllData but there is no procedure for overhauling the PTU. There is a procedure for overhauling the transmission tho. The transmission procedure lists TA-29 as the sealant needed for the transmission. I am thinking it would be safe to use that same sealant on the transfer case. See any flaws in my logic?

I believe that same blog guy shared this video on LSD site for ecoboost: https://www.tractionconcepts.com/How-to-Install-s/1911.htm
 

SHO-moco

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Alright cool, thanks. I will watch some of those, see what he has going on.
 

yaycandy

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I believe that same blog guy shared this video on LSD site for ecoboost: https://www.tractionconcepts.com/How-to-Install-s/1911.htm
I had the lsd installed during my trans upgrade. Only thing i really notice is that it just pulls straight instead of smoking the tire and pulling to the right. Now it just squeals for a second and yanks. I need to test it out on the windy roads
 

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