New guy has a valve lash question

[Goulash]

Another thing...

Ok, so once I pull the shim, I should measure it with a micrometer to see how worn it is, and include that in the calculation...right?

Now what I'm trying to figure out is how to turn the cams on an ATX. Do they turn independently once the timing belt is off? Or can I turn the whole engine over with a breaker bar on the crank pulley? I'll save my questions about TDC and timing and stuff for when I get into that part of the job.

Also, the SHOPP walkthrough is REALLY good...don't know how I missed it before.

- Justin

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Ok, so once I pull the shim, I should measure it with a micrometer to see how worn it is, and include that in the calculation...right?

Now what I'm trying to figure out is how to turn the cams on an ATX. Do they turn independently once the timing belt is off? Or can I turn the whole engine over with a breaker bar on the crank pulley? I'll save my questions about TDC and timing and stuff for when I get into that part of the job.

Also, the SHOPP walkthrough is REALLY good...don't know how I missed it before.

- Justin

No you really don't need a micrometer. Just measure the gap, pull the shim to inspect it, if the gap was fine and the shim is fine then reinstall, then check the gap again.

If the gap is off, then remove the shim and replace it with an appropriate sized one.

The front and upper 60Ks are seperate jobs, so the timing belt and everything should be all buttoned up when you're doing the upper part. Yes, you can turn the whole engine with the crank bolt.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Ok, so once I pull the shim, I should measure it with a micrometer to see how worn it is, and include that in the calculation...right?

Now what I'm trying to figure out is how to turn the cams on an ATX. Do they turn independently once the timing belt is off? Or can I turn the whole engine over with a breaker bar on the crank pulley? I'll save my questions about TDC and timing and stuff for when I get into that part of the job.

Also, the SHOPP walkthrough is REALLY good...don't know how I missed it before.

- Justin

No you really don't need a micrometer. Just measure the gap, pull the shim to inspect it, if the gap was fine and the shim is fine then reinstall, then check the gap again.

If the gap is off, then remove the shim and replace it with an appropriate sized one.

The front and upper 60Ks are seperate jobs, so the timing belt and everything should be all buttoned up when you're doing the upper part. Yes, you can turn the whole engine with the crank bolt.



*edit* When you're about to get into the job, email me at [email protected] and I'll give you my phone number, so if you get stuck you can just give me a call.

 

[Goulash]

Thanks Josh, will do!

I think I like this forum!

- Justin

 

[sdpatt]

I am just checking in to this topic to let you know I haven't forgotten my offer, but that I have just had very little time to follow up on it. My apologies.