need input for Datsun 260Z RWD setup

[stangracr67]

Im well under way for mating my 46K sho engine with a tremec 3650 out of a 06 Mustang. Well I made my adaptor plate and Modified a mustang flywheel to fit the SHO crank and so far everything looks good. Just looking for some input on a few things. I'm trying to clean up some of the plumbing and want to know how much of it is necessary. for instance do I need the hoses going to the IAC? Throttle body? Summer car only so not going to run in the cold. Also gonna make my own headers for more swept back, got a oil filter relocator. Is it safe to get rid of the oil filter cooler as long as the header isnt close to the adaptor? Next up is motor mounts, but I wanna get as much done to the engine as possible before I mount the transmission permanently. Also, if you turn the intake around, where is a good place to mount the DIS module? If there is room I would like to leave the intake as is and run an elbow before the throttle body to move the intake tube toward the old battery location(pass side against firewall) Thanks for the input.

 

[lowc]

only thing that i can tell you is that you can bypass the tb. i know their are a few guys that will hop in with more help

 

[Off Road SHO]

Yes, you can sweep the intake before or after the throttle body. I have one or two of the throttle body adaptors left that I used when building The Other Woman. They're aluminum and a 3" 90 degree sweep welds onto them perfectly.

The DIS can be moved anywhere you please as long as you copy its wiring harness exactly, i.e; if the original is shielded with a drain wire that is bonded to ground, make sure your new extension of that harnes is also. I moved The Other Woman's DIS to a box behind the drivers seat, HOWEVER, keep in mind that the DIS talks to several other devices that you can't move such as the Crank and cam sensor and one that you can move such as the coil pack. It was a lot of extra wiring for me but I buried it all in the V of the engine so I wouldn't have any wires showing from the outside.

I guess you could get rid of the sandwich oil cooler, but I wouldn't. It's very efficient at taking heat out of your oil. I made mine even more efficient by only feeding it with the coolest coolant I had, that coming back from the heater at the front of the buggy.

Tom

 

[stangracr67]

Well, my first thought with the oil cooler was to reuse the manifolds and just swap them to the other side. In RWD configuration they will be slightly swept back, but the oil cooler will be right in the way. With a remote filter mount the exhaust is not that close to the lines and there is still a heat sheild on the manifold.
Tom, the needle bearing fits great. thanks again. just out of curiosity how much for one of the throttle body elbows?
I will eliminate the throttle body coolant lines, do i need the IAC ones? Is it even possible to run the main coolant pipe off the water pump out the front of the engine? Hate to run piping all the way around the engine bay to get to the radiator. Maybe a different water pump?

OffroadSHO, I was just reading your thread on wiring the 3.2. I have the stock wiring harness, can I just tap into the wire thats on the #1 pin for ignition on and into the Red/green stripe with a hot run and start wire?

 

[Off Road SHO]

I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish with the wiring tap.

You don't need any of those little coolant lines to the TB or IAB.

Use the stock manifolds and cross under the oil pan with the driver's side pipe if your crossmember allows it. If it doesn't, make a 120-140 degree bend and head out the driver's side with it for dual exhausts. The nice thing about the stock cooler is it closeness to the oil path in the block; therefor no loss in flow caused by long distances to a remote cooler and or filter. Less chance that it will go into bypass.

You could do away with the crossover pipe in the valley and route it around the outside, but why? You will have to make a whole new manifold with thermostat housing. Too much work if you ask me. Route the pipe from the thermostat tube back around to the radiator.

I don't sell the elbows, you can get those online just about everywhere. I had a bunch of plates water-jetted out of 1/2" aluminum and drilled to bolt to the manifold. This allows you to have your intake within about 5" of the firewall, maybe less. The last I looked I had two sets left, it takes two, one to bolt to the throttle body to the sweep and the other to bolt the other end of the sweep to the manifold. You will have to make a new IAB with this setup. I moved The Other Woman's IAB to the new location of the TB which was in front of the Eaton M-90.

If you keep your TB in its original location you can just use a 90 degree sweep, silicone or aluminum with silicone connector hoses, to turn the intake away from your firewall and towards your battery box. If it's too close to turn, cut a nice round hole in the firewall and put the MAF sensor under the dash and then back out for the filter in the battery box.

Tom

 

[stangracr67]

good info on the coolant passages. I will just reroute around the engine bay. should be plenty of room for the throttle body, maf, filter with a 90 before the throttle body.

As far as the wiring, I bought the harness not in the car so I only have a vague idea where all the plugs go, but most of it will be self explanitory. The one thing I dont have is the small rusty box that is at the end of the harness. I am just trying to figure out where does the harness connect with the ignition switch? Does one of the plugs on the main engine harness go into the dash area of the car? Gotta draw power from somewhere. Do I need the dash wiring harness? Also trying to figure out what will power the inline fuel pump. Thanks for the help so far.