My old clutch...pics inside...

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SHO-NUF93

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This is how I found the TOB...along with a few ball bearings scattered in the bottom of the bellhousing.
2494047_17_full.jpg

Heat spotted like a ****...but I've seen worse
2494047_18_full.jpg

Glazed, but, again, I've seen worse
2494047_19_full.jpg

I count 5 broken fingers, and the rest worn nearly all the way through.
2494047_20_full.jpg


The replacement was a Competition Clutch 4 puck ceramic disk, reinforced PP, SHO Bros. billet steel flywheel and ceramic TOB.

Oh yeah, has anyone ever seen a disc like that with two different sized springs in the hub?
 

ty91sho

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yea i have seen that clutch with the different sized springs. i know that the fenco clutch that i got that DIDNT work(because it was to thick and wouldnt disengage) in my sho had them differnt sized springs. i think its for Different engagements like "hard or soft lanching" to take up the chatter. otherwise i think you could use that TOB if you wanted looks good still, :nut: ahaha wow
 

SHO-NUF93

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Meh, I've heard that said about my clutch choice, but I'm happy with it. It fits my driving style perfectly. Plus when I mod more, I don't want to tear into the car again for alittle while...even though next time I'll be able to do it much quicker. It took me about 10 hours total, so... And truth be told, the 4 puck was actually cheaper by about $40, so why not, I figured. Doesn't hurt to overbuild...

Ahh, here's a question for ya...of all the threads I've read on clutch replacement(though, I didn't watch the video mentioned), I never heard one thing about the little plastic pushpin that slips through a hole in the TOB tab and into the clutch fork, I imagine to hold it in place...?

Also, on first start, with the clutch pedal out, I heard a slight ticking, and if I just barely touched the pedal, it went away. I clicked the quadrant once with a flathead screwdriver, and haven't heard it since...nor had any problems with it at all...60 miles into break-in so far.
 
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SHO-NUF93 said:
Meh, I've heard that said about my clutch choice, but I'm happy with it. It fits my driving style perfectly. Plus when I mod more, I don't want to tear into the car again for alittle while...even though next time I'll be able to do it much quicker. It took me about 10 hours total, so... And truth be told, the 4 puck was actually cheaper by about $40, so why not, I figured. Doesn't hurt to overbuild...
.
i agree with the overbuild idea if you plan on modding alot.
but man thats a **** of alot of clutch,have you driven it yet?
 

AntF

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Mine will probably look something like that when it comes out. Barely able to get it into 1st, and no reverse without massive grinding. Doesn't slip though, so it's gotta be the fingers. Jeez 4 puck...sounds like you're gonna have an on/off switch of a clutch :) sounds fun though ahahah
 

SHO-NUF93

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It's really not that bad. You can feel it grabbing from a stop. But driving normally, it feels fine. The pedal is easier than it was when I bought the car. I did notice after driving for about a half hour or so, after it got warm, it got really grabby...which is a good thing, as far as I'm concerned.
 

AREA 91

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You do realise that in having a 4 puck means that you will be changing the clutch MUCH sooner than a full faced clutch.
 

SHO-NUF93

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AREA 91 said:
You do realise that in having a 4 puck means that you will be changing the clutch MUCH sooner than a full faced clutch.

That never really crossed my mind. I guess, depending on how much more modding I've done, maybe I'll opt for the fullsize next time.
 

SHO-NUF93

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Damn, just noticed bearing noise in the transmission while engaging the clutch, especially in reverse...guess I never heard it before because of the damn TOB.
 

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