autobahnsho
SHO Victim
Well, I waited a LONG time to drive my SHO again.
Back in June I worked on the front of the engine changing the Crank Position Sensor out. (Car wasn't starting sometimes.) This fixed my problem, but then I had a new problem.
The clutch didn't work. There were no symptoms of wear beforehand, but the day I drove it after fixing the CPS, nothing but grindage. I had already planned a vacation to the states in July, then in August I was away for training all month. I saved some money up (somehow it all slipped through my wife's fingers while I was away
,) and ordered the parts:
new disc, Pressure Plate, ThrowOut Bearing, exhaust studs/nuts, rear main seal and carrier gasket
You can see pictures of the old stuff at http://www.photoisland.com/servlet/GuestLogin?USERNAME=autobahnsho with the password of "sho".
Thanks to Scott P. who had diagnosed the TOB and PP. The TOB was almost seized up. The PP Fingers were worn about 1/8 in. or more by the TOB. What surprised me was that when I pulled it all apart, a spring fell to the ground- one of the interior springs from the clutch disc!! This caused the disc and PP to get torn up. I don't know if this happens very often, or how it did.
I used the Army's Morale, Welfare, and Recreation Auto Skills Center garage to do the work on lift- $3/hr and $5 to keep the car overnight plus fluids and a filter came to $146. It took me 2 eight hour and 2 seven hour days, a lot of it wasted on waiting in line for tool loans and help. I also changed the oil, tranny fluid, air filter, and did other basic maintenance.
I also was ready to blow a fuse after I snapped 1 of the exhaust studs and couldn't get 2 more out of the manifolds. So I removed both manifolds (good thing THEY had been coated in anti-seize!!) and used a bench vise, torch, and pipe wrench to remove the studs.
The design on the stupid Spring Bolts is very poor, the little tabs broke off and so the bolt just spun. I ground them off and made a homemade version- Keeping the original springs I got some M10x70mm bolts. They had a flat head with a squarish body before the threading. I ground this off some so it fit into the collars but left some on so it would bite. Then I put the springs, big washers, and the nuts back on, with some loctite.
I'm ecstatic to be driving the SHO again, and now know that the boots are shot on the swaybar endlinks and one of the tierod ends. (Actually I tore up one of the endlink boots.. )
Monday before I started I was using a borrowed BMW to get last minute hardware I had an altercation with a streetlight. It was wet out, I made your typical not-used-to RWD mistake around a bend, and so now my insurance rates will be going up. I walked away without injuries.
Thanks also to SHONut!! His video and help getting all the parts, especially some that he doesn't stock, were critical to my SHO rolling again.
Anyway- thanks to everyone here at the SHO Forum! Check out my new sig!!
<small>[ November 08, 2003, 01:22 PM: Message edited by: autobahnsho ]</small>
Back in June I worked on the front of the engine changing the Crank Position Sensor out. (Car wasn't starting sometimes.) This fixed my problem, but then I had a new problem.
The clutch didn't work. There were no symptoms of wear beforehand, but the day I drove it after fixing the CPS, nothing but grindage. I had already planned a vacation to the states in July, then in August I was away for training all month. I saved some money up (somehow it all slipped through my wife's fingers while I was away
,) and ordered the parts:new disc, Pressure Plate, ThrowOut Bearing, exhaust studs/nuts, rear main seal and carrier gasket
You can see pictures of the old stuff at http://www.photoisland.com/servlet/GuestLogin?USERNAME=autobahnsho with the password of "sho".
Thanks to Scott P. who had diagnosed the TOB and PP. The TOB was almost seized up. The PP Fingers were worn about 1/8 in. or more by the TOB. What surprised me was that when I pulled it all apart, a spring fell to the ground- one of the interior springs from the clutch disc!! This caused the disc and PP to get torn up. I don't know if this happens very often, or how it did.
I used the Army's Morale, Welfare, and Recreation Auto Skills Center garage to do the work on lift- $3/hr and $5 to keep the car overnight plus fluids and a filter came to $146. It took me 2 eight hour and 2 seven hour days, a lot of it wasted on waiting in line for tool loans and help. I also changed the oil, tranny fluid, air filter, and did other basic maintenance.
I also was ready to blow a fuse after I snapped 1 of the exhaust studs and couldn't get 2 more out of the manifolds. So I removed both manifolds (good thing THEY had been coated in anti-seize!!) and used a bench vise, torch, and pipe wrench to remove the studs.
The design on the stupid Spring Bolts is very poor, the little tabs broke off and so the bolt just spun. I ground them off and made a homemade version- Keeping the original springs I got some M10x70mm bolts. They had a flat head with a squarish body before the threading. I ground this off some so it fit into the collars but left some on so it would bite. Then I put the springs, big washers, and the nuts back on, with some loctite.
I'm ecstatic to be driving the SHO again, and now know that the boots are shot on the swaybar endlinks and one of the tierod ends. (Actually I tore up one of the endlink boots..
)Monday before I started I was using a borrowed BMW to get last minute hardware I had an altercation with a streetlight. It was wet out, I made your typical not-used-to RWD mistake around a bend, and so now my insurance rates will be going up. I walked away without injuries.
Thanks also to SHONut!! His video and help getting all the parts, especially some that he doesn't stock, were critical to my SHO rolling again.
Anyway- thanks to everyone here at the SHO Forum! Check out my new sig!!
<small>[ November 08, 2003, 01:22 PM: Message edited by: autobahnsho ]</small>
