Midwest SHO Suspension Package

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95snake

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Hello,

I am finally started to work on my SHO, and I just ordered the Suspension Package form Midwest SHO. I just went with the basic package, MOOG coils, KYB shocks, and was wondering if anyone else had used this package and what they thought of it?

Also, it says to cut a coil off to lower it by .5", do you have to do this? I am just keeping my SHO stock, I use it as my daily driver so I want a nice ride with a little pep!

I just found out I am getting sent to CA for school (I'm in the Navy) and I had to replace the worn out suspension.

Last, if anyone has any tips or tricks that would help me out, please let me know.

Thanks,
Jason
 

Russsho

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What he said. Your car is 12 years old, everything is worn. Switching to TPR bushings will firm it up in the corners without hacking the ride quality too much.
 

SHOtimer

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When my '95 had 160k on it I went through the entire suspension and replaced everything, it was completely original. I used new mounts, bearings, springs, struts, LCA's, and all the bushings.

I used the Moog coils with 1.5 coils cut off the front, and none cut off the back. And I used KYB struts. I love how it rides, the back doesn't sag and it is a very comfortable ride, nice and firm, but not too harsh. The front is rather low, so if you don't want it that low i'd only cut 1 coil off the front springs.

Besides springs and struts I would do mounts, subframe bushings, endlinks, and LCA's as a must. You might also want to replace your tie rods, those can make a night and day difference in the steering. I would get the Moog bushings and mounts. The rest of the suspension bushings are an awesome plus that add a nice firm finishing touch, but arn't a necessity.

Doug
 

Mr Anonymous

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Without cutting the coil, you're actually going to see a higher ride height since your old springs have sagged with age. It's so common to cut a coil off the Moogs that I now feel completely comfortable recommending it.
 

SASHO91

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Doug, how long have you had the Moog/KYB setup....
i ask cause ebay has KYB's for 200.... and the monroes are about 270....
and i was going to get moog/monroe... but since you said that.... i think i might change that... how much fimmer is it than stock....
you can PM me, that way we dont use up the thread.... which is what i should have done... but its too late.... i've gone to far.... :lol:

sorry for the hijack.... :)
 

MorpheusGPR

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I have moog/monroe waiting to go in with new strut mounts (moog) as well. Should make a huge difference. I also have sub frame connectors and alm sub frame bushings to get on.
 

n8rsk8r

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KYB is a good company, I have em on the stang, and they ride awesome, I know it is a different beast, but the shocks/struts are really nice, the ride was like it was new from the factory!
 

greenbeanmtx

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If i recall right the KYB strut is claimed to be 10% stiffer than stock. I think its a great strut for stock ride height but if you begin lowering the car i think you would be disapointed with the result. You need more dampening than that on a lowering spring like intrax or eibach.
 

SHOtimer

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Saleen SHO said:
Doug, how long have you had the Moog/KYB setup....
i ask cause ebay has KYB's for 200.... and the monroes are about 270....
and i was going to get moog/monroe... but since you said that.... i think i might change that... how much fimmer is it than stock....
you can PM me, that way we dont use up the thread.... which is what i should have done... but its too late.... i've gone to far.... :lol:

sorry for the hijack.... :)

My original post was wrong I put them on at 150k not 160k. So, I have had them for about 20k. Granted my suspension had 150k on it when I ripped it apart, the KYB's ride excellent compared to what was in there. They were really firm for the first 5k then they softened up (broke in) and they are comfortable now. They are not to stiff, but also they are not soft. I would say that 10% stiffer than stock would be accurate. But, after 20k they still ride great.

Doug
 

95snake

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rlw001, I'll see what they have. The big thing is that I am limited by time. I have to have the car ready to go by the 17th of January, and I am really busy right now. I was hoping to be able to do the package in a day, maybe two. I guess since I'm in there, it would be better to do it all!

Russsho, that is my main concern.. ride quality. Since it is not my toy, I just want a nice looking and riding, quick, daily driver.

SHOtimer, the kit comes with the following:
2 Strut Bearings
4 Strut Mounts
4 Strut Rod Bushing Kits (Polyurethane)
Bolts, Washers, & Misc Hardware

I will look into LCA's and end links. I don't know if I will be able to get the alum. subframe bushings. I have noticed that the back is saging, is there suppose to be a difference from front to back in the measurement from tire to fender?? I have a huge gap up front, and a small one in back. So you you say to cut only the front coil?

Jason
 

95snake

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SHOtimer, I just ordered the rest of the bushings from SHOnut. They did not have any LCA, so I bought the bushings. My question now is, do I have to get the special tool to get the old bushings out, or is there a trick I can do at home?
 

SHOtimer

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95snake said:
SHOtimer, I just ordered the rest of the bushings from SHOnut. They did not have any LCA, so I bought the bushings. My question now is, do I have to get the special tool to get the old bushings out, or is there a trick I can do at home?

Are you talking about the subframe bushings? They are not too difficult. Here is a step by step set of instructions.

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/sfb/sfb.htm

Doug
 

SHOtimer

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95snake said:
I have noticed that the back is saging, is there suppose to be a difference from front to back in the measurement from tire to fender?? I have a huge gap up front, and a small one in back. So you you say to cut only the front coil?

Jason

The rear springs have a tendency to sag, and in doing that it pulls the front end up distorting the whole ride of the car. The new rear springs will perch up the rear and restore how it is supposed to sit. The front will also have less gap because it will no longer be pulled up by the sagging rear.

Doug
 

95snake

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SHOtimer said:
Are you talking about the subframe bushings? They are not too difficult. Here is a step by step set of instructions.

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/sfb/sfb.htm

Doug


Doug,

No, I ment the bushings in the Lower Control Arm. I ordered the new bushings from SHOnut, but I also have the Ford Tech Manual on the car and it says I have to have a special removal and installation tool. I was wondering if there is a trick to it, or do I have to find the tools?

Thanks,
Jason
 

SHOtimer

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95snake said:
Doug,

No, I ment the bushings in the Lower Control Arm. I ordered the new bushings from SHOnut, but I also have the Ford Tech Manual on the car and it says I have to have a special removal and installation tool. I was wondering if there is a trick to it, or do I have to find the tools?

Thanks,
Jason

Those bushings arn't usually replaced in the LCA. The come brand new in a new LCA and that is usually the only time that they are replaced, being when they come with a new LCA.

Doug
 

dstig1

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You can replace them with not too much trouble if you are using aftermarket 2-piece ones. Take the LCA out, clamp it in a vise, and use a prybar to dig into the bushing near the middle and rip it out. Not always easy but it works. Pressing them out is something to try right after setting your hair on fire (i.e. not worth it). You're trashing them in any case, so rip them out. If you get the Ford replacements (if they are even sold anymore), you will discover serious pain trying to press them in as they are 1-piece.

The problem is that the bushing has a recess all the way around that a ring in the center of the LCA fits into to lock it in place. So rip half out from one side as described, and the other should come out from the other side.
 

TYSHO

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Saleen SHO said:
Doug, how long have you had the Moog/KYB setup....
i ask cause ebay has KYB's for 200.... and the monroes are about 270....
and i was going to get moog/monroe... but since you said that.... i think i might change that... how much fimmer is it than stock....

Do NOT buy them, believe me! Those things suck and I feel much safer cornering with my worn out struts and springs. Comparing Moog CC's w/KYB's to real performance struts and springs is like comparing night and day. I don't care what anyone else says or swears about their Moog CC's/[insert non-performance strut here] setup, they need to experience with Eibachs, Intrax, Tokicos, or Konis before coming to a conclusion.

Anyhow, my 89 SHO with CC/KYB's is more harsh than the one with Intrax/Tokicos, and it was like that with the worn out suspension before, too.
 

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