Lowering car

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studio460

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Thanks for the install tips on the PI-grille! I have a body-pin puller, and I'll look for the screws. My Marauder had an adjustable rear air-suspension system so that may have helped. As you point out, I believe the car does have a lot of unspung weight and that is an issue. I guess I can't expect a $50K American sedan to perform like a $150K BMW M5.
 

SM105K

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People not know how coil springs work, cutting a factory spring down is something that should never be done. People think the spring geometry is the same no matter the length. At least my tuner is smart with his response on the ecoboost performance forum.
Want it lower? Go full adjustable coilovers or lowering spring
Want it to ride better lowered? There is no car that rides better when lowered compared to factory suspension. The purpose is to increase the feel of the road through the suspension for more spirited driving or racing therefore making you feel the imperfections of the road. Which will make it ride rough. But on a impossible perfect road, there would not be an issue of negative road feel. Smooth as butter, happy happy
You can cut the factory PP rear springs with no ill consequence. Ford put the rear alignment into spec with my cut PP rear springs, and with my cut rear H&R springs after they did the warranty work on the end links. Many have done it, and many will over numerous platforms. Now torching a spring is a no no. My SHO rode the best on the cut and level PP springs. However, I wanted the H&R drop and after many years of it, I hate the ride now. The only saving grace for the H&R's is, I don't drive the SHO very often, and I still love the way it looks.
 

studio460

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So you currently have the H&R springs on the car? My SHO arrived a couple hours ago and the suspension on my BMW i3s is definitely stiffer based on the ride over some known dips near my house; I would guess by about as much as 50% stiffer. Perhaps the H&Rs won't feel too stiff for me?

My Marauder with the lowered Eibachs felt about the same as the SHO, or maybe even a bit softer than the stock SHO PP-suspension.

How much did you cut the PP springs? Do you know if the end-link recall affects the 2019 SHO PPs? Thanks!
 
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SM105K

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So you currently have the H&R springs on the car? My SHO arrived a couple hours ago and the suspension on my BMW i3s is definitely stiffer based on the ride over some known dips near my house; I would guess by about as much as 50% stiffer. Perhaps the H&Rs won't feel too stiff for me?

My Marauder with the lowered Eibachs felt about the same as the SHO, or maybe even a bit softer than the stock SHO PP-suspension.

How much did you cut the PP springs? Do you know if the end-link recall affects the 2019 SHO PPs? Thanks!
My car as it sits right now, is one H&R's. I cut the rear H&R's because it was still too racked for my liking.
 

studio460

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I actually like the rake. Made my Marauder look like a 1970s muscle-car. It's hard to decide since you say it rides like a tank while another member here loves the ride. If it's similar to my BMW that would be perfect acceptable, if not much preferred over stock.

I had a chance to drive a few hundred miles Saturday and the ride was comfortable; though, nearly all straight-line driving unfortunately. The ride felt soft in comparison to my BMW, so I feel like I could stand a stiffer suspension. Later, I drove over an unpaved rock, gravel, and sand area (the railroad siding), and the car felt like a truck. But over paved roads, the H&Rs may feel just right to me.

So, currently leaning toward H&Rs alone with the PP's stock MacPherson struts. This, assuming both coil-overs and shorter springs would exacerbate the ill-effects to the point of annoyance.
 

Lurch.sho

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H&Rs are a nice spring with a nice drop, but if you go with the non-PP shocks and struts it will pogo. The non PP struts go bad so quickly with the stock springs, forget about it on a DD with H&Rs ...not good
I have a 2013 non-PP and I just got H&R springs for it the other day. I was planning on throwing them on in a few weeks but if I'm going to run into issues with the non-PP shocks and struts id be willing to hold off on everything to make sure it gets done right. Could I just get the PP shocks and struts somewhere and just replace the non-PP ones I have on it right now? Is there any issues I could run into there I should know about? Links to where I could buy the parts/links to any other threads would be appreciated! sorry if my question doesn't make the most sense, just got an SHO a few months ago and most anything outside of car audio is new to me.
 

10TTMKS

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I have a 2010 so the design is a bit different PNs will be different. For 2010 the struts and shocks can be just swapped out with PP. The only other part that had a different PN was the strut bearings/top mounts. I would imagine that the 2013+ would be similar.
 

RickyRecon

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Anyone have the decoder ring for the whole “with/without painted calipers” on the rock auto? Trying to order some suspension components, including new shocks and struts to go with the H&Rs, and I want to know which one indicates the PP versions.

I searched the ford parts website that sources through a dealership(s) in one’s local area with a VIN someone posted in a thread for a PP sho, and that site says with black calipers. If I search a part number that same member posted on rock auto, it highlights the option that says without painted calipers lol. Just trying to make sure I order the right ones.
 
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FiveLeeter918

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Anyone have the decoder ring for the whole “with/without painted calipers” on the rock auto? Trying to order some suspension components, including new shocks and struts to go with the H&Rs, and I want to know which one indicates the PP versions.

I searched the ford parts website that sources through a dealership(s) in one’s local area with a VIN someone posted in a thread for a PP sho, and that site says with black calipers. If I search a part number that same member posted on rock auto, it highlights the option that says without painted calipers lol. Just trying to make sure I order the right ones.

That's such a confusing aspect, as I've never known any to come with painted calipers. When I refreshed mine, I didn't think to check and I got the "painted caliper" struts thinking "painted = performance package" and the part numbers were different from what came off the car. I've heard others say that the "without painted calipers" is actually the performance pack version, but I decided to just roll with what I installed and never really looked back.
 

mustngkilla511HP

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Or just go with the Police H/D Rotors and Pads.. more efficient and are actually Steel Rotors! ALSO A CAN OF FIRE ENGINE RED, HIGH HEAT RESISTANT, spray paint the calipers. Then everyone will ask you how much was your performance calipers were…haha good luck fellas


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

RickyRecon

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That's such a confusing aspect, as I've never known any to come with painted calipers. When I refreshed mine, I didn't think to check and I got the "painted caliper" struts thinking "painted = performance package" and the part numbers were different from what came off the car. I've heard others say that the "without painted calipers" is actually the performance pack version, but I decided to just roll with what I installed and never really looked back.
Right on, thanks man. Yeah, I suppose it’s not the biggest deal, I’ve just been told the H&Rs were made with the PP shocks in mind. That being said, I know a lot of you guys have ran em on the non PP shocks/struts and it’s been fine. Not to mention the guys that switched to the PP shocks/struts and regretted it.
 

yaycandy

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Right on, thanks man. Yeah, I suppose it’s not the biggest deal, I’ve just been told the H&Rs were made with the PP shocks in mind. That being said, I know a lot of you guys have ran em on the non PP shocks/struts and it’s been fine. Not to mention the guys that switched to the PP shocks/struts and regretted it.
Theys fine on the non pp shocks. I will replace shocks soon with pp shocks and see if its any better
 

LilCop2002

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I did non-PP on my 2010 non-PP and the ride is firm, occasionally jarring on the nastiest of potholes, but nothing terrible.

They were changed in December (or early January) and are still settling in since it is hardly driven.
 

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