Is my transmission going

[Mark W]

Greetings. I've been hanging here forever, but never posted. I've probably gotten $10,000 worth of information from this forum, as well as hours of entertainment.

I decided to break down and post a question. I've spent the gross national product of Peru to get this car going (look it up - I'm within about five bucks, I swear). Now I seem to be having a problem getting the @@$$%% thing into first gear at a stop light.

The problem is intermittent, maybe one out of eight tries at putting it into first. If I let out on the clutch, and then try to put it in gear, it sometimes goes in easier, sometimes not. The clutch is less than a year old. Tranny is full of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. I have new front and rear motor mounts, half shafts are in good shape (new one this week).

The question - is the trans going? Specifically, the synchronizers? I know (from this forum) that the '89's have brass synchronizers. Are they giving it up? If I have to put a trans in it, I'm going to paint a deer on the side and put it in the woods in Wisconsin in the fall.

Thanks

 

[EZ4U2ENVY]

Streamwood hey- well im right around the corner(palatine) well i have the same problem... i had my clutch recently changed and the day i got it back i messed it up. I accidentally pulled the clutch out to early going into second and blew some bands off my pressure plate.. the effects of it are now rough shifting(sometimes) and stiff clutch pedal. Im sure you are experiencing same thing- its either pressure plate bad or throw out bearing is going(this would make noises while pushing and letting clutch out) thi sisnt a big deal but sooner or later you need a new clutch

clutch kits are 219 for oem

labor is expensive

only thing that would also rough shifting is blocking rings- so basically without having it apart u really cant identify it but by the feel and sound.

Hope that helps

 

[sdpatt]

Mark,

First thing is to check to see if the clutch is being fully disengaged from the flywheel. You can do this by depressing the clutch with the engine at idle with the car stationary. Place the shifter into third and fourth gears to stop the transaxle gearshafts. Now try to slowly move the shifter into reverse gear. Since reverse gear is not synchronized, if the clutch is not fully disengaged, the gearshafts will again be rotating and you will hear a grinding of straight cut gear teeth as you try to move the shifter into reverse.

If this is not the case, the first gear blocking ring is probably in need of replacement.

If you heard the grinding of gears while shifting into reverse, I will assume first that all is well with the new clutch and throwout bearing. You may just need to pull upward on the clutch pedal to allow the ratchet mechanism on the pedal to take up any slack in the clutch cable. If you hear a click or two when you pull up firmly on the clutch with a hand or foot, your clutch cable needed adjusting. I hope this is all that was necessary. If not, you may need to return to the shop that installed the clutch to have them evaluate their work.

<small>[ February 24, 2003, 10:56 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[SHO--ripper]

How do you adjust the clutch cable sdpatt? this problem you are talking about reverse grinding sounds like my problem. i figure if i can fix it by adjusting my clutch instead of putting in a new TOB; i will save myself some much needed money. thumbs_u

 

[sdpatt]

SHO--ripper:
How do you adjust the clutch cable sdpatt? this problem you are talking about reverse grinding sounds like my problem. i figure if i can fix it by adjusting my clutch instead of putting in a new TOB; i will save myself some much needed money. thumbs_u

Do you see the portion of my previous post now in bold text?

 

[SHO--ripper]

Sorry read it too fast. thumbs_u