IRCM continues to blow

[Bluestreak]

OK, We were talking about this.

facts.

The cooling fan also uses the same pins as the fuel pump relays for power, becasue they splice down the line.

Now, JEff said that the IRCM didn't pop on start up, like you would think it would,he said that it would pop after he drove it for a few miles in town.

SO------------------

I'm thinking that maybe the fan might be bad and drawing too much juice and causing the IRCM to pop.

what u guys think. could that be a cause??

(Well test the fan and stuff in the next few days to find out)

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

sounds like a logical theory...IRCM blows once fan kicks on...

 

[Bluestreak]

yeah, BINGO. That is what I wanta test once I get some time . I hate being so busy.

 

[zuup_2000]

Im dealing with the same problem, but I posted it on the engine forum (oops).
Look it up and see if it sounds like your problem. Im thinking there are a couple of shorts, or possibly a bad EEC. Ive waited to hook up my new IRCM untill I make some sense of the situation. You may want to check the voltage at the IRCM plug with the box disconnected to see if your getting voltage from a wire that shouldnt have any voltage.
When I used the jumper wire in place of the burned IRCM wire, it worked long enough to drive down the street, but it blew the 30A EEC relay fuse instead. This was mainly due to the jumper wire being large enough to withstand the short, compared to the thin metal lead in the IRCM circuit board. Yours could be working long enough to withstand the short untill it gets hot enough to pop.

 

[Bluestreak]

Well today I got to play around with the car for a good 5 hours and checked a load of grounds, wires, and other things.

Good news, found a few wires that were broke, or unhooked and reconnected them and We rewired a few plugs that had broken wires, but some of these plugs went to no where. Found a loose ground and grounded that. The curent at the pump was 4.5 amps, from what I gather that is good. Ali ground were fine at the pump. THe fan checked out fine also.

I have a good IRCM in the car and the replaced the upper rad. hose. THe cooling system was rather disturbing, full of ick but we didn't have time to do a flush today. I also was apply to fix some other odds and ends in the interior including the sun roof switchs(wasn't working and all of a sudden worked, I also cleaned out he soda that somehow got on the map light switch causing it to stick. I also fixed the drivers visor, and I made a list of other little things to fix in spring.

BUt back to the IRCM, We couldn't get the car to pop the IRCM, we had it ideling inthe shop for about 45 minutes, and we then took it for a spin in the mall parking lot for about another 30 minutes. We drove it around 10 miles. So it should have been at full opperating temp. WE couldn't get the IRCM to pop.

We hooked it up to the scanner and found no codes at all, ran some other tests and the scanner said the car failed the balance test, which I guess is a test for good compression on all 6 cylinders - but I'm not worried about that at all. The car runs fine, idles fine, and doesn't sputter or have anyother issues, that I encountered today.

So I think we are going to keep trying to pop the IRCM, but it I can't get it to pop, then we either fixed it kinda by accident, or the car is holding out for another day.

I'll keep you guys posted.

 

[Bluestreak]

Damn exhaust fell off.

Well took it for another ride tonight, let it get to operating temp and drove it another 5 miles around the parking lot.

I was getting ready to turn it off and lock it up when it got really loud. yup, that's right. the damn exhaust rotted off right at the flang behind the cat. SO I'll add that to my list of crap to fix. BUt to tell you the truth, I like that low rumble, but ya... needs to get fixed.

BUt still no IRCM pop?!?!

 

[Bluestreak]

Well got a pipe comming for $70 .

 

[matt621]

WE have been fightign with this exact same problem. Popped the original IRCM, then 2 from napa and 1 from someplace else. Then I got a used one off ebay and it poped.

The mechanic that's working on it wants out. He's unable to find the problem. Where are you located Bluestreak? Did you find what was causing the problem?

 

[jbserra]

Wow, too bad bluestreak didn't buy someone ELSE's car with this problem and then I could've kept my car and fixed it with her help...

Sounds like a new IRCM SHO shop is opening in the midwest ;-)

 

[Bluestreak]

I’m reviving this thread. OK, I finally titled this car and was able to play with it some more. IT still continues to blow the IRCM, but I also noticed some more interesting stuff this time. The ABS light was flickering. Don’t know what that might have to do with blowing the IRCM if anything. And I also noticed if I turned on the EATC it would blink out and trigger all kinds of relays under the hood; you would hear the click. The display on the EATC would flicker a few times then kick in. I again have no clue what to do with this car. It idled for about 45 minutes before I drove it because the battery was weak. This I was going to take it out for a test drive, armed with my cell phone, jumper cables, tools, and a few extra IRCMs, but I never mad it farther then 300 ft from my house.

Any Ideas?

 

[jbserra]

The fan circuit also goes through that box. I don't know if the fan is pulling too much juice.

The alternator is relatively new. I don't think I had any problems prior to the new alternator, so if you have a spare you might want to check that out. The other option is to put it on a computer to make sure it reads ok. I know advance auto parts does this for free.

Turn on the flashers. You might see a little electrical disco show with flashing EATC, etc. This might also point to a short somewhere.

I'm sorry to hear you're still having problems. I hope you guys find the root!!!

Last resort may be to put a manual switch for the fuel pump. This was going to be my final straw. Isn't it frustrating!!! All of this work because the stupid fuel pump won't stay on!! Anyway. Good luck.