Inner Tie Rod Pic / Replacement How-To

[ViPER1313]

Before I changed my inner tie rods I searched all around the forum for a picture of the pin that prevented it from backing out to get an idea of how to remove it, to no avail. I also felt a more intuitive tutorial was needed. Attached is a picture of the pin and a step-by-step tutorial for anybody interested in saving some cash. This procedure took me ~3 hours and cost me $50 for the specialty tool that I used / needed.



Tools Needed:

-Jackstands
-Small pick tool
-Side cutter pliers
-Needle Nose Plyers
-Various sockets (14mm? for the outer TRE, 19mm for the lug nuts)
-Large adjustable open ended wrench
-LISLE Inner Tie Rod Tool Part# 45750
-1/2" breaker bar
-3/8" socket wrench
-Torque Wrench
-12" 1/2" extension
-2 small flat head screwdrivers and one long one
-Hammer
-Small block of wood (optional but recommended)


Parts Needed:

-2 new inner TRs
-2 new hose clamps for the bellows (I found the outer ones were in good shape and easy to reinstall)
-2 new cotter pins for the outer TRE castle nuts
-Red Loctite (came with the new TRs)


The procedure is pretty straightforward:

1. Jack up car
2. Remove wheels
3. Starting on the drivers side, loosen the nut connecting the inner TR to the outer TRE.
4. Pull the cotter pin located below the castle nut of the outer TRE and loosen the castle nut so that it extends past the threads of the stud to protect them. Place the block of wood against the nut and give it a few sharp whacks to break it free.
5. Rotate the outer TRE to remove it, making sure to count and record how many turns it took to back it off. Remove the nut that held the inner TR against the outer TRE.
6. Remove the bellows covering the inner TRs by taking the needle nose plyers and removing the outer clamps. Take a long flat head screwdriver and remove the inner clamp by inserting it into the slot in the clamp and twisting / prying. The clamp should pop open. Pull the bellow off by twisting and pulling, making sure to disconnect the breather tube (it just pulls out.)
7. Remove mushroom pin on inner TR:

I ended up removing the mushroom pin with a small pick until it was pushed far enough up that I could put two small screwdrivers under the mushroom head and pry up on it.

The mushroom pin is a 2 piece construction - soft metal surrounding a small, hard inner pin.

The mushroom head broke off on both pins when I was removing them, but not until the small inner pin was far enough up for me to remove it with pliers. I assume you are not supposed to remove the entire pin, just the small inner pin.

There was still soft metal contained within the TRE, but it didn't seem to score the rack's threads.

8. Place the open ended wrench over the exposed teeth of the steering rack and have someone hold the rack steady. Don't let the inner part of the rack rotate or you will be replacing the entire rack!
9. Construct the Lisle tool over the inner tie rod and use the breaker bar / extension to break it free. You should then be able to back it off with your hand.
10. Clean the threads on the rack and install the new inner TR with the red loctite supplied. Construct the Lisle tool over the new TR and torque to 66-81 ft/lb (pretty sure on the torque specs, check the documentation provided by with the inner TR.)
11.The passenger side is the same although you have to adjust the steering wheel until you can grap the rack's threads on the drivers side and get the tool over the TR on the passenger side at the same time.

Installation is the opposite of removal with the following notes. Clean the bellows before replacing them. Replace the inner clamps with new hose clamps. Replace the cotter pins below the castle nuts with new units. Make sure to screw the outer TREs back on the same amount of turns you took them off with. Put anti-seize where the outer TRE goes through the steering knuckle to save yourself some hassle if you have to take them off again.

I would appreciate it if somebody would list the torque specs for the castle nuts, inner to outer connecting nuts and wheel lug nuts (IIRC the last one is 75-100ft/lb, I always torque them to 95ft/lb and know for a fact that is within the spec.)

Please post up any corrections or errors I made / things I missed and I will edit the post. Hopefully this can become a sticky somewhere.

 

[Ishodu]

Thanks, Can you recall what size gear clamps you used to reinstall the boots on the rack? I think that would be very helpful for our members to know. I can't remember what size I used when I did mine.

 

[NoSlo]

Tie Rod End procedure - from TSB 93-13-2

The first words of advice:

• When shopping for a replacement inner tie rod end, make sure that you get one that comes with a rivet with a pushpin, and the inner end is one big nut so the tool will fit over it. Autozone is selling an inner tie rod end that won't work with the tie rod tool.
• If the old inner tie rod end has a rivet with a center pin, you should be able to grab and pull out the pin with a pair of dikes (side cutters). Don't remove the end without completely pulling the pin & rivet.
• The tie rod end should be 1 5/16" in size, and so should the tie rod end tool. Reject any tool/tie rod end that is not this size. The OTC tool part number is 7551.
  
  
• Ford now sells a tie rod without a pin, it must be torque'd to spec and Loctite must be used. I would recommend against this.
• Lug nuts are 95ft/lbs. Tighten in a star sequence (every other lug nut) in multiple steps.
• Turn the steering wheel to the right before starting. You must hold the steering rack by the teeth on the driver side when torquing the ends.

================================
FORD: 1986-93 MUSTANG, TAURUS, TEMPO, THUNDERBIRD
1991-93 ******
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1986-92 MARK VII
1986-93 CONTINENTAL, COUGAR, SABLE, TOPAZ
1991-93 TRACER
1993 MARK VIII
LIGHT TRUCK: 1986-93 AEROSTAR


ISSUE:
An inner tie rod in-vehicle replacement procedure has been developed for the subject vehicles. The inner tie rod is worn if it exhibits any lash or axial free-play. Worn inner tie rods may exhibit some of the following symptoms:

• "Clunk" or "rattle" noise in the front end during vehicle deceleration or cruise operation modes when going over small bumps, etc.
• Front tire wear
• Inconsistent alignment toe setting by the service specialist
• Lack of center feel
• Vehicle wanders
• Vehicle shudder during decel/braking

ACTION:
If service is required, use the following service procedure to install the inner tie rod assemblies.


CAUTION: SERVICE AND REPAIR PROCEDURES DESCRIBED IN THE SERVICE MANUALS ARE TO BE MODIFIED PER THIS TSB ARTICLE. ALL SERVICE MANUAL NOTES, CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS SHOULD BE OBSERVED. THESE INNER TIE ROD PARTS MUST BE INSTALLED BY A QUALIFIED TECHNICIAN, OTHERWISE AN UNSAFE VEHICLE AND PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT. SAFE AND RELIABLE INSTALLATION OF STEERING/CHASSIS PARTS REQUIRE EXPERIENCE AND TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR THE JOB.



DIAGNOSIS
1. Check for "clunk" noise, with the window down, engine OFF, steering column unlocked, by turning the steering wheel ± 45°.

• For the steel on steel type ball joints, a metal "clunk" noise may be heard.
• For the steel on plastic type joints, refer to Step 2.

2. Raise the front of the vehicle.

• With the tires unweighted, shake the tire from top/bottom (12/6 o'clock position) to determine wheel bearing play.
• Compare with left/right (9/3 o'clock position) tire shake which will also include the outer and inner tie rod lash.
• Holding the inner tie rod spindle during the latter tire shake may help verify the inner versus outer tie rod looseness. See Figure 1.
  
  
  Figure 1 - Article 93-13-2

NOTE: A MECHANICALLY LEVERAGED TOOL SUCH AS A CROWBAR MAY BE USEFUL FOR THIS DIAGNOSIS WHEN APPLIED TO THE TIRE.



3. Disregard the Service Manual pull test with two (2) to ten (10) pound pull requirement, since this may not be a reliable test.
4. The inner tie rod is worn and must be replaced if it exhibits any lash or axial free-play.

INNER TIE ROD (GEAR IN-VEHICLE) REMOVAL

1. Prepare the vehicle for servicing.

• Unlock the steering column by turning the ignition key.
• Engage the parking brake.
• Raise and support the vehicle.
• Clean any loose dirt or oil from the power steering gear and boot bellows.

2. Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle.

• Loosen the jam nut and keep flush with outer tie rod.
• Disconnect the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut by using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent, Figure 2.
  
  
  Figure 2 - Article 93-13-2

3. Mark the threads at the jam nut location.

• Count and record the number of turns to remove the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. This information is useful in estimating the alignment setting.
• Remove the jam nut from the inner tie rod spindle.

4. Remove the left and right steering gear boot bellows along with the breather tube.

NOTE: MARK THE BREATHER TUBE AND BOOT BELLOWS LARGE ID CLAMP'S ORIENTATION ON THE HOUSING FOR LATER INSTALLATION REFERENCE.

CAUTION: USE CARE NOT TO DAMAGE THE BELLOWS.


5. FOR STEEL ON STEEL BALL JOINTS, remove the rivet or rollpin securing the inner tie rod to the steering gear rack.

• Use a sharp chisel to gently pry up the rivet or rollpin. DO NOT CUT OFF.
• Use side cutters or equivalent to remove the rivet, Figures 3 & 4.
  
  
  Figure 3 - Article 93-13-2
  
  
  
  
  Figure 4 - Article 93-13-2
  
  
  CAUTION: THE RIVET HAS A STEEL CORE WHICH WILL DEFORM THE STEERING GEAR RACK THREADS IF IT IS NOT COMPLETELY REMOVED.
  
  
  
• Use Locknut Pin Remover D81P-3504-N or equivalent to remove the rollpin, Figure 5. If the rivet is not accessible, unscrew (see Step 6) the inner tie rod until it is accessible (less than 1 full turn).
  
  
  Figure 5 - Article 93-13-2

6. Remove the inner tie rod from the steering gear rack using a wrench on the rack teeth in combination with the following tools as shown in Figures 6 and 7.


Figure 6 - Article 93-13-2




Figure 7 - Article 93-13-2


-Yoke Locknut Wrench T81P-3504-G or Inner Tie Rod Socket Tool D90P-3290-A - Tempo/Topaz
-Nut Wrench T74P-3504-U - Aerostar, Thunderbird, Cougar, Continental, Mark VII & Mark VIII, Mustang, Taurus and Sable

An adjustable wrench may be used on the rack teeth.

CAUTION: HAVE STEERING GEAR AT OR NEAR THE FULL TURN (LOCK) POSITION. USE A WRENCH ON THE RACK TEETH (FLAT) TO RESIST RACK ROTATION AND PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE PINION DURING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION. ALLOWING THE RACK AND PINION TO INTERNALLY RESIST TIGHTENING OR LOOSENING TORQUES MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE STEERING GEAR.



7. Clean the following components.

• The steering gear housing OD interface and boot bellows ID (each end).
• The steering gear housing ID and rack as required.
• All parts to be inspected and replaced if necessary. Make sure the rack threads are clean and dry.

CAUTION: THOROUGHLY REMOVE ANY ABRASIVE MATERIAL. THESE CONTAMINANTS ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO THE HIGH PRESSURE STEERING GEAR RACK SEAL INTERFACE.




INSTALLATION

1. Refer to the Parts Block in this article for correct parts usage.
2. Replenish any grease (C3AZ-19578-A) which may have been removed from the rack teeth.
3. For replacement plastic on steel ball joints that do not have the rivet feature, proceed as follows:

• Clean any contamination, dirt or oil from the rack threads and wipe dry.
  CAUTION: THOROUGHLY REMOVE ANY ABRASIVE MATERIAL. THESE CONTAMINANTS ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO THE HIGH PRESSURE STEERING GEAR RACK SEAL INTERFACE.
  
• Apply locking compound (E2FZ-19544-B) (Loctite 262 or equivalent) to the steering gear rack threads. The thread locking compound will set sufficiently so that the vehicle may be driven when the remove and replace procedure is complete, including the alignment toe.

4. Hold the rack securely as shown in Figure 7. If both inner tie rods are replaced, tighten each inner tie rod separately.

• For Mustang, Mark, Thunderbird, Cougar, Taurus, Sable, Continental, Aerostar, the torque specification is 55-60 lb-ft (75-81 N-m).
• For Tempo/Topaz, the torque specification is 40-50 lb-ft (54-68 N-m).

5. For ball joints that use the rivet (N804152-S), install rivet (which replaces the rollpin) using channel locks or equivalent, Figure 8.


Figure 8 - Article 93-13-2


6. Check the inner tie rod function by moving the tie rod spindle. Handshake in various directions.
7. Apply steering gear grease (C3AZ-19578-A) (ESW-M1CC877-A) to the inner tie rod groove where the boot bellows attach with a clamp to the inner tie rod. This allows for toe-in adjustments without twisting the bellows.
8. Apply steering gear grease (C3AZ-19578-A) (ESW-M1CC877-A) to the steering gear housing OD/boot bellows' large ID interface. This layer of grease will help keep water and contamination from entering the ball joint and rack sealing surfaces.
9. Install the boot bellows and breather tube.

• Check to see that the boot bellows are properly positioned over the steering gear housing bead at the large ID, and are in the tie rod groove at the small ID.
• Check to see that the boot bellows are not twisted and that the vent tube is securely inserted into the vent ****** AT BOTH BOOTS.
• At the boot bellows/housing large ID, install screw type (hose) clamps and position screw axis as shown in Figure 9. Tighten screw to 1.7-2.5 lb-ft (2.3-3.4 N-m).
  
  
  Figure 9 - Article 93-13-2
  
  
  CAUTION: DO NOT USE TIE STRAPS TO SECURE BOOT BELLOWS TO STEERING GEAR HOUSING.
  
  
  
• At the boot bellows/inner tie rod small ID, install clamp.

10. Install the jam nut and apply Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease (D7AZ-19590-A) or equivalent to the inner tie rod threads.
11. Install the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod. Count the number of turns recorded earlier. This approximates the previous alignment toe setting.
12. Tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.

• For Mustang, Mark, Thunderbird, Cougar, Taurus, Sable, Continental, Aerostar, the torque specification is 35-50 lb-ft (47-68 N-m).
• For Tempo/Topaz, the torque specification is 42-50 lb-ft (57-68N-m).

13. Connect the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle.

• Tighten the castle nut at the steering knuckle to a minimum 27 lb-ft (36 N-m).
• Continue tightening direction until the hole allows installation of a new cotter pin.
  - For Mustang, Mark, Thunderbird, Cougar, Taurus, Sable, Continental, Aerostar, the torque specification is 35-47 lb-ft (47-64 N-m).
  - For Tempo/Topaz, the torque specification is 27-32 lb-ft (36-43 N-m).

14. Align the front end to specification. Refer to the appropriate Vehicle Service Manual for service details.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
C3AZ-19578-A Steering Gear **** (Pk./4)
E2FZ-19544-B Thread Locking Compound
N804152-S Rivet (Pk./8)
D7AZ-19590-A Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease
FO3Z-3280-B Inner Tie Rod (1986-90 Tempo/Topaz)
FO3Z-3280-A Inner Tie Rod (1991-93 Tempo/Topaz)
E8SZ-3280-A Inner Tie Rod (1986-93 Mustang/Capri, 1986-88 Thunderbird/Cougar, 1986-92 Mark VII)
E9SZ-3280-A Inner Tie Rod (1989-93 Thunderbird/Cougar, 1993 Mark VIII)
F2DZ-3280-A Inner Tie Rod (1986-93 Taurus/Sable, Continental, Aerostar)


OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
90-11-3

WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage For 1991 Lincolns And All 1992/93 Models, Basic Warranty Coverage For All Other Models

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
931302A Install Both Tie Rod End Assemblies - ******/Tracer 1.5 Hrs.
931302B Install Both Tie Rod End Assemblies - Tempo/Topaz 1.9 Hrs.
931302C Install Both Tie Rod End Assemblies - Taurus/Sable 1.6 Hrs.
931302D Install Both Tie Rod End Assemblies - Continental 1.6 Hrs.
931302E Install Both Tie Rod End Assemblies - Thunderbird/Cougar/Mark/Mustang 1.5 Hrs.
931302F Install Both Tie Rod End Assemblies - Aerostar 1.7 Hrs.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
3280 30

OASIS CODES:
303000, 390000

 

[Mr Anonymous]

If you happen to have two extra of the largest V6 intake coupler clamps, they work perfectly.

 

[ViPER1313]

The LISLE Inner Tie Rod Tool Part# 45750 will work for both new and old style inner tie rods. It comes w/ 5 adjustable crows feet that allow it to be assembled over the new and old styles.

 

[etc1006]

Okay, how do you know which type of inner tie rods you have?

 

[ViPER1313]

Old Style - Roll pin as pictured in first post
New Style - No roll pin

 

[SolidState]

I found the clamp size to be about 2.75".

 

[Racer X]

If you happen to have two extra of the largest V6 intake coupler clamps, they work perfectly.

This just saved me a trip to the parts store tomorrow night.

 

[captainK]

THANK YOU for this procedure. It gave me the confidence that I could do it and I did. Some things that I learned are that if you do this with the rack on the car, there is limited access, (especially on the passenger side) so when replacing the boot clamps, it is VERY difficult. The only way for me was to use the nylon tie wraps, but I thought that if tie wraps are supplied with the MOOG replacement boots, it cannot be too bad. Another gotcha will be finding the correct removal tool. Autozone rental does not fit. Advanced Auto does not have one. O'Reilly's tool, with the 3 different size interchangeable heads does fit. Get the O'Reilly removal tool first and take it to the place where you are buying the inner tie rods and make sure it fits from the ROD end!! I used the TRW glueable inner tie rod replacements because of the superior metal quality. You can also get the small tie rod puller for rent at O'Reillys that makes quick work for removing the outer tie rod end from the wheel, while saving its rubber grease seal. Be sure to clean the inside of the old boots if you reuse them! Somehow, I read somewhere to grease the rack teeth, but after doing it, I could not find those comments, and since they were clean and un-greased when I first saw them, I cleaned them and did not grease them because of the warning about destroying the rack seals. (comments please) Thankfully, the access on the bottom of the drivers side allowed almost perfect angle for backup of the rack with a large crescent wrench on the teeth of the rack to avoid damaging the rack....I just duck taped it in this position to provide backup in both directions (I did a one man job). Also, you should reassemble the old inner and outer rods after you get them off the car and compare the TOTAL length to the new setup before you put the new inner and outers on to preserve the alignment. I torqued my new glued inners to 90-100ft.lbs. Castle nuts to 45ft. pounds. Anyway, within 5 hours for this one old man....the job was done......thanks to the help here. YOU CAN DO IT!!! I saved about $1100 dollars over the Ford house job!! The O'Reilly tool part numbers are: INNER PULLER=67046 and end rod tool=67028

 

[zak]

Thanks to Viper and NoSlo for this thread.

Am removing the passenger side inner tie rod end from a 95 (variable steering) on MY2000 subframe conversion car. Access to the underside of the pin is limited, and everything I've tried to get it started has not worked (nail, punch and hammer, etc.). Any suggestions?

The Ford tool (OTC 7122R for reference) is about $50 and looks designed to be used with the rack off the car, FWIW.

zak

 

[ViPER1313]

I used a tiny pick to get under them and pry them up a little bit - I don't know of any better tool to use...