Ignition control module on 95 ford taurus sho

[Sho-Off1120]

I have replaced my ICM several times on my 1995 ford taurus SHO 3.0l Vin: Y and for some reason it just keeps going bad it lasts for about 2-3 months then breaks down out of nowhere and struggles to even run I hear popping in the exhaust and rpms are everywhere with no power it dies between the two middle coils on the coilpack everytime this happens if anyone may know a solution or the problem or the answer to why this happens please let me know as it's becoming very costly to me I've purchased them from advanced auto and auto zone and they both do the same thing after 2 or 3 months low rpms it has no power if I get the car up to 65mph or 70mph I can maintain it still pops and stutters but tries to continue spark is this a common issue with the 95 sho?

 

[zoomlater]

maybe you can try a used Ford OEM one. Are you putting heat sink paste on the backside like Arctic silver and not dielectric grease
any codes?

 

[Sho-Off1120]

No I used dielectric grease

 

[zoomlater]

No I used dielectric grease

The ICM generates heat and the crossover tube absorb the heat from the ICM. That is why thermal paste is needed on the backside to transfer the heat to the crossover tube. The ICM will fail as it gets too hot. Arctic silver is what they use on computer chips to transfer the heat away from the chip. Dielectric grease is not the same thing.

They have them at computer parts stores, but I just get them off ebay

 

[luigisho]

Also is there excessive movement under the hood? It can pull on the electrical plugs/clips on the sides

 

[Sho-Off1120]

No excessive movement but I am definitely going to try that paste this time because I felt it the other day and it was quite hot those cars run hot as it is anyway that sounds like it could very well be the problem because I've always wondered if it was overheating and cooking itself

 

[luigisho]

For sure heat sink. Good luck.

 

[SHOrod]

But keep in mind, when it comes to thermal paste, more is NOT better. You want an even, thin film for the best heat transfer. After applying the thin film of paste, I'd suggest wiggling the part before bolting it down to spread the paste and hopefully fill in any voids.

-Rod

 

[FastCAD]

I have replaced my ICM several times on my 1995 ford taurus SHO 3.0l Vin: Y and for some reason it just keeps going bad it lasts for about 2-3 months then breaks down out of nowhere and struggles to even run I hear popping in the exhaust and rpms are everywhere with no power it dies between the two middle coils on the coilpack everytime this happens if anyone may know a solution or the problem or the answer to why this happens please let me know as it's becoming very costly to me I've purchased them from advanced auto and auto zone and they both do the same thing after 2 or 3 months low rpms it has no power if I get the car up to 65mph or 70mph I can maintain it still pops and stutters but tries to continue spark is this a common issue with the 95 sho?

Verify that the icm is for a dohc motor.

 

[Sho-Off1120]

But keep in mind, when it comes to thermal paste, more is NOT better. You want an even, thin film for the best heat transfer. After applying the thin film of paste, I'd suggest wiggling the part before bolting it down to spread the paste and hopefully fill in any voids.

-Rod

I put a thin layer and evenly spread it as you suggested thank you for the input it is much appreciated

 

[Sho-Off1120]

Verify that the icm is for a dohc motor.

I will look into this when purchasing it at the store I always watch the screen because they have been known to sell my parts for the regular taurus and I'm always like now it's the SHO Vin y model and I always watch to see if the select the right motor unless their computer systems could possibly show the wrong ones. If that's the case I would think it wouldn't work at all right? I mean mine works for a few month's then goes out

 

[Sho-Off1120]

For sure heat sink. Good luck.

Thank you Luigi you are very good at getting back to people in need for these specific cars I'm glad to know when in doubt sho forum it out lol

 

[Sho-Off1120]

maybe you can try a used Ford OEM one. Are you putting heat sink paste on the backside like Arctic silver and not dielectric grease
any codes?

Thank you zoom for now it's holding up but the problem always happens I will let you know if it didn't hold up in the next couple of months but I did purchase the arctic silver and I did use a thin layer on it so we will see thank you for the response I'm hoping this has been the issue I think it is because I'm thinking it was cooking itself but only time will tell

 

[FastCAD]

I will look into this when purchasing it at the store I always watch the screen because they have been known to sell my parts for the regular taurus and I'm always like now it's the SHO Vin y model and I always watch to see if the select the right motor unless their computer systems could possibly show the wrong ones. If that's the case I would think it wouldn't work at all right? I mean mine works for a few month's then goes out

That's is true for a lot of sites. The problem seems to be the 3.0 sohc Slo motor but in your case the 3.2L is unique to the SHO if I don't get corrected. lol
Best to ya. u'll get it sorted and then u can help the newbies.
If it helps any the current icm I have for quite few years now I got from a listing on ebay for a masda dohc v6.

 

[Sho-Off1120]

Well I have the 3.0l dohc Yamaha motor and the newer models came with the 3.2l but the autoparts always try to sell me the 3.0 sohc stuff and it's not the same lol definitely don't want those parts I love the power my sho has especially 4k rpm and up but I'd like to get a little more on the low end 1k to 4k and I'd be really happy but I don't have a lot to dump in the car right now but I've been exploring options to add more power low end without spending a thousand bucks

 

[rwacek]

I have replaced my ICM several times on my 1995 ford taurus SHO 3.0l Vin: Y and for some reason it just keeps going bad it lasts for about 2-3 months then breaks down out of nowhere and struggles to even run I hear popping in the exhaust and rpms are everywhere with no power it dies between the two middle coils on the coilpack everytime this happens if anyone may know a solution or the problem or the answer to why this happens please let me know as it's becoming very costly to me I've purchased them from advanced auto and auto zone and they both do the same thing after 2 or 3 months low rpms it has no power if I get the car up to 65mph or 70mph I can maintain it still pops and stutters but tries to continue spark is this a common issue with the 95 sho?

I have the same problem Bro. My original one, 1993, lasted 29 years. Failed and the raw gas destroyed the cats. So that was another cost. Replaced the original with an aftermarket and that failed after 565 miles. In my head I'm thinking , OK, 29 years on the original and I treat the second one as an out of box failure. I now have the third one on, same manufacturer, and have my fingers crossed. Just in case I have a shoebox in my trunk with a spare DIS, tools needed and the heat sink compound. At least I can change it there and not wait for a tow truck. My now spare unit is from a different manufacturer. Still it is somewhat of a mystery and certainly an inconvenience.

 

[rwacek]

I have the same problem Bro. My original one, 1993, lasted 29 years. Failed and the raw gas destroyed the cats. So that was another cost. Replaced the original with an aftermarket and that failed after 565 miles. In my head I'm thinking , OK, 29 years on the original and I treat the second one as an out of box failure. I now have the third one on, same manufacturer, and have my fingers crossed. Just in case I have a shoebox in my trunk with a spare DIS, tools needed and the heat sink compound. At least I can change it there and not wait for a tow truck. My now spare unit is from a different manufacturer. Still it is somewhat of a mystery and certainly an inconvenience.