IAB VALVE? SDpatt and others,,,?

[SHOMA]

After reading some other posts having a similar choking/hesitation problem under load, I noticed one guy took care of it by cleaning the IAB valve... I may seem like a novice when asking this, but where and what is the IAB valve? Also, how do I clean the MAF sensor? I have been trying to solve this problem, or hoping it goes away I guess (LOL its a longshot I know), but its still there, and I want to get the codes checked, but would like to clean the IAB sensor first,a nd see if that is it...
Thanks to ALL!

 

[naval-avi8or]

IAB (inlet air bypass) its mounted on the oposite side of the intake Y from the throttle body. Its the silver cylindrical small cannister it is attached to the itake with two hex head screws. You can clean it with berrymans B-12. I don't know what mine was cleaned with but I'm sure someone will chime in if not just check with a autoparts store. You take the for screws out that hold the maf to the air duct and spray the cleaner on it. Atleast thats what the smog place hear in San Diego did on mine. Maybe some other cleanin as well. As far as chocking and hesitation check your plug wells for oil thats a classic symptom.

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Just use intake cleaner. Be sure to be very gentle when spraying the actual wires. They are very delicate. As for the IAB just grab a LOT of Q tips and intake cleaner and have at it.

 

[luigisho]

Go to the shotimes faq. there are several procedures outlined very well there. There is a link at shoclub.com. It's very helpful and you should bookmark it. You can clean it with carb cleaner. Maybe not the carb/choke dual use cleaner but carb only I think. When you take it off it's a pain. Remove the upper bolt first and carefully (there's a reusable gasket there)rotate the unit toward the cabin to get better access to the lower bolt. You'll see what I mean when you get into it. When you put it back on put the lower bolt on first then rotate and line up the upper bolt. Check the MAF cleaning while you're under the hood.

Oh and there is a year or two where the IAB model can't be cleaned.

<small>[ May 19, 2002, 02:00 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>

 

[naval-avi8or]

I believe there are two different IAB's the one I believe they are talking about (Older sho)is different on your 95. I have a 94 and mine is different from what they and the shotimes procedure talkes about. The only thing you can do is take the IAB off the intake and clean the valve. There was no screw or way to take the IAB/IAC apart. It seems to be one complete unit that can't be seperated.

 

[sdpatt]

I don't believe that a dirty idle air control valve can cause a stumble or hesitation off-idle. It only passes an appreciable percentage of the intake air when the throttle is closed.

The IAC valve can be removed from the intake with a standard 90 degree Allen wrench. Just don't drop the screws in the engine's V. Again, this servo valve only controls air at closed throttle and usually displays its failure by causing a surging idle speed, low idle speed or high idle speed.

The stumble during acceleration is normally caused by a secondary ignition fault: plug or plug wires. As stated before, check the plug wells for oil or water (you didn't clean the engine with water did you?) by pulling the easily accessable front three plug boots. Old, improperly gapped or incorrect spark plugs can also cause a misfire. Old plug wires can result in spark misfires also. The Motorcraft wires are usually good for about 120,000 miles unless they have been mishandled during an intake-removing maintenance job.

 

[raze]

95silvermtx, first off, beautiful car. I got one question, although it doesnt apply to your topic. But do you have any (more) pictures of your exhaust/tips? I love the slanted tips, and plan on getting them done to my car when I get the exhaust redone. Any information on what tips or mufflers (I see flowmasters in your sig, but what kind exactly) would be great, thanks!

 

[SHOMA]

Thanks to ALL for posting! SHO'S suck sometimes! JK, but I just got hit with a waterpump leak, and pulley just about falling off the pump was so bad, so its in the shop, but.....No oil in plug wells, it was the first thing I checked, as my 94 atx had that issue, spark plug wires were replaced months back, and spark plugs are gapped properly.... front ones at least...
Also, is the IAB the thing to the left of the throttle body joint, in the pic at the top of each page? Mine is a 95, so if it is different than the older ones, it would be great to know... I am getting it scanned as well, so they can hopefully locate the problem, if it comes up, but any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
SDPATT, I didnt wash the motor, but would like to know a good way to clean it without spraying it! So the IAB is to the left of the throttle body joint, right? I would really like to locate this skip, the car still rips, but it would be nice if it didnt do this at low rpm's.... ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS? I am going to clean the IAB and MAF as soon as I can!

RAZE: I bought the car with flows on it, the tips are welded onto the end of mufflers, so they dont come with them, but i do like them as well....Any way of telling by a part # or anything what model they are? Sorry for the long post!!!!
THANKS!

<small>[ May 21, 2002, 10:36 PM: Message edited by: 95silvermtx ]</small>

 

[BeatDaSHO]

95silvermtx....the IAB is the tubular like module right next to the first "snake" on the right side. It is attached to the throttle body. It comes off with i believe to allen wrench screws. Take some choke and carb cleaner to it to clean it all out. Also use some q-tips to clean it out. To clean off the engine, just spray some wd-40 or windex into a rag and just start to wipe things down. It isn't good to use the hose and hose down the engine due to all of the electrical components. I cleaned mine down with wd-40 and a rag. turned out real nice.

Greg