This is a step by step procedure on how to replace your old rusted frozen parking brake cables. If you have owned your SHO for a while or plan on owning your SHO for a while you will eventually have failing cables. (please note that i thought about writing this after i had already replaced my cables so i dont have any before or during pics)
This covers all 3 cables. If you are not replacing all 3 just omit anything that pertains to the ones you are keeping. I do recommend changing both rear cables at the same time because you will have to disconnect both of them in order to do either of them.
If done correct this job can be done in about an hour. When i did these i was dealing with a torn MCL in my right knee and i did it in a little over 2 hours over 2 days.
Need supplies -
-Front cable and both rear cables. I used Dorman but there are other brands to use.
-PB Blaster or similar penetrating lubricant
-Cable cutters
-Long Needle Nose Pliars
-Small Cresent Wrench
-Socket Wrench w/8mm & 17mm socket
-3 Large Zip Ties
-Black RTV(maybe)
-Patience
Step 1 - Block the front wheels, jack up the rear of the car, and place on jack stands.
Step 2 - Lubrication. Your cables will probably be seized to the calipers where they mount so you will need to lubricate the spot where the cables go thru the calipers. Lubricate the bolt between the control arms that holds the right cable to the chassis. Lubricate the T-30 bolt securing the bias valve bracket to the left control arm. Lubricate the 17mm bolt that secures the large bracket above where the rear cables connect to the front cable.
Step 3 - Removal. Dont waste time trying to remove the cables whole. Just grab the cable cutters and start cutting.
Cut the front cable where it connects to the pedal and use the needle nose pliars to squeeze the spring clip thru the mount and pull the cable out the floor.
Cut on both sides of the coupler that connects the front cable to the left rear cable.
Use the pliars to squeeze the spring clip thru the mount that secures the front cable to the chassis.
Cut the right rear cable directly behind the threaded stud that connects the cable to the tension bracket. Use the pliars to remove the spring clip from the tension bracket and set the bracket to the side, it gets reused.
Remove the 17mm bolt holding the large bracket to the chassis and set it aside. With the large bracket removed you can now use the pliars to squeeze the spring clip on the right cable at the jack point. Pull both cables thru the jack point.
Cut both rear cables where they connect to the spring lever on that calipers. Remove the 2 brackets securing the right cable to the control arm and chassis and pull the cable loose.
All the cables should be removed at this point.
Step 4 - Installation. Everything in reverse.
Insert the rear cables into the caliper mounts and secure tha cables to the spring levers. Push from the opposite ends to get slack. Use the provided E-clips to secure the cables to the calipers.
Secure the right cable back to the chassis and the left control arm by reinstalling the 2 brackets. Insert both cables thru the jack point. Left cable up top and right cable thru the bottom. Make sure that you route the right cable over the strut rod. I then used 3 large zip ties to secure the right cable to the strut rod and the right control arm.
Insert the front cables spring clip thru the chassis mount and then route the cable up thru the floor of the car. NOTE- my new front cable did not come with a new rubber grommet. I had to cut the old cable near the grommet and slide it off. I then used a small pick to work the old grommet on to the new cable and sealed it on top and bottom with the RTV.
Insert the front cables spring clip into the mount and and attach it to the pedal. Push from the opposite end to get slack.
Remount the large bracket with the 17mm bolt. Insert the spring clip on the left cable thru the hole on the tension bracket. Insert the threaded stud on the right cable thru the tension bracket and thread one of the nuts on at the very end. Do not tighten the nut down at this point.
Attach the coupler to the end of the front cable and pull it tight. With your other hand stretch the left cable by the end and attach it to the coupler.
Tighten the nut on the threaded stud to apply tension to the cables and then tighten the 2nd nut to secure the stud in place.
At this point everything should be back together. Apply the brake and release it several times to make sure it is working properly while the rear wheels are still in the air. They should lock in place when the brake is applied. Check the tension one last time at the tension bracket and then lower the car and clean up.
-Chad
This covers all 3 cables. If you are not replacing all 3 just omit anything that pertains to the ones you are keeping. I do recommend changing both rear cables at the same time because you will have to disconnect both of them in order to do either of them.
If done correct this job can be done in about an hour. When i did these i was dealing with a torn MCL in my right knee and i did it in a little over 2 hours over 2 days.
Need supplies -
-Front cable and both rear cables. I used Dorman but there are other brands to use.
-PB Blaster or similar penetrating lubricant
-Cable cutters
-Long Needle Nose Pliars
-Small Cresent Wrench
-Socket Wrench w/8mm & 17mm socket
-3 Large Zip Ties
-Black RTV(maybe)
-Patience
Step 1 - Block the front wheels, jack up the rear of the car, and place on jack stands.
Step 2 - Lubrication. Your cables will probably be seized to the calipers where they mount so you will need to lubricate the spot where the cables go thru the calipers. Lubricate the bolt between the control arms that holds the right cable to the chassis. Lubricate the T-30 bolt securing the bias valve bracket to the left control arm. Lubricate the 17mm bolt that secures the large bracket above where the rear cables connect to the front cable.
Step 3 - Removal. Dont waste time trying to remove the cables whole. Just grab the cable cutters and start cutting.
Cut the front cable where it connects to the pedal and use the needle nose pliars to squeeze the spring clip thru the mount and pull the cable out the floor.
Cut on both sides of the coupler that connects the front cable to the left rear cable.
Use the pliars to squeeze the spring clip thru the mount that secures the front cable to the chassis.
Cut the right rear cable directly behind the threaded stud that connects the cable to the tension bracket. Use the pliars to remove the spring clip from the tension bracket and set the bracket to the side, it gets reused.
Remove the 17mm bolt holding the large bracket to the chassis and set it aside. With the large bracket removed you can now use the pliars to squeeze the spring clip on the right cable at the jack point. Pull both cables thru the jack point.
Cut both rear cables where they connect to the spring lever on that calipers. Remove the 2 brackets securing the right cable to the control arm and chassis and pull the cable loose.
All the cables should be removed at this point.
Step 4 - Installation. Everything in reverse.
Insert the rear cables into the caliper mounts and secure tha cables to the spring levers. Push from the opposite ends to get slack. Use the provided E-clips to secure the cables to the calipers.
Secure the right cable back to the chassis and the left control arm by reinstalling the 2 brackets. Insert both cables thru the jack point. Left cable up top and right cable thru the bottom. Make sure that you route the right cable over the strut rod. I then used 3 large zip ties to secure the right cable to the strut rod and the right control arm.
Insert the front cables spring clip thru the chassis mount and then route the cable up thru the floor of the car. NOTE- my new front cable did not come with a new rubber grommet. I had to cut the old cable near the grommet and slide it off. I then used a small pick to work the old grommet on to the new cable and sealed it on top and bottom with the RTV.
Insert the front cables spring clip into the mount and and attach it to the pedal. Push from the opposite end to get slack.
Remount the large bracket with the 17mm bolt. Insert the spring clip on the left cable thru the hole on the tension bracket. Insert the threaded stud on the right cable thru the tension bracket and thread one of the nuts on at the very end. Do not tighten the nut down at this point.
Attach the coupler to the end of the front cable and pull it tight. With your other hand stretch the left cable by the end and attach it to the coupler.
Tighten the nut on the threaded stud to apply tension to the cables and then tighten the 2nd nut to secure the stud in place.
At this point everything should be back together. Apply the brake and release it several times to make sure it is working properly while the rear wheels are still in the air. They should lock in place when the brake is applied. Check the tension one last time at the tension bracket and then lower the car and clean up.
-Chad
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