How to Replace your Multi-Function Switch

Ashley_MTX

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Alright several people have talked about replacing the MFS but no one has followed through to say whether that has worked or to specifically put up a how-to on the MFS. (You can get the information from the How to Pull a Dash thread)

But here is a basic step-by-step for SPECIFICALLY just the MFS.

Here are ALL the tools used: Basic ratchet, I used a 13 mm socket for disconnecting the battery, a T-20 torque bit, a phillips screwdriver, a flathead screwdriver, an extension, and a 5/12 hex (or a T-30 for most of you but that isn't pictured).

MFS014

First, disconnect the battery just to be safe. This is where the 13mm socket came in for me.
MFS001

Then, below the steering wheel there are TWO bolts on the kick panel that you need to remove. One is at the top left, the other at the top right.

The top left one on my car took the phillips:
MFS002
The top right took the 5/12 hex
MFS003

The lower right/left hex bolts were NOT removed. On these bolts is where most of you may find that you need the T-30 instead of the hex key/screwdriver. You may have to wiggle the panel a bit.

Now, you need to take the ignition cylinder out. On the right hand side of the steering column there are THREE holes. The one in the middle is the one you need to focus on now:
MFS020

Put your key in the ignition, turn it to the "run" position. While the key is in the run position stick a screwdriver or hex key up into this hole to depress the pin. With the pin depressed take hold of the cylinder and pull. It should come out fairly easily.

Then, you need to remove the panels around the steering column. (You shouldn't need to remove the gauge cluster or any part of the dash)

There are THREE screws that take the phillips screwdriver to remove.

ONE on the left hand side of the steering column:
You can see it here:
MFS015
and here:
MFS016

and TWO on the right hand side.
MFS017

You also need to remove a shorter screw (phillips again) on the right hand side at the back of the steering column right at the seam between the top and bottom of those panels:
MFS006

Take the bottom panel off first (it will make taking the top off easier). Again, this takes a bit of wiggle. Then pull the top off. Lots of wiggle here but it will come off.

Next, you need your T-20 Torque Bit. There are TWO bolts that need to come off, one on top and one on the bottom of the column. I used an extension to give myself a little more room to move as the ratchet was a little bulky for the space. (The extension had to get around the lever on the bottom but still worked fine)

MFS010
MFS007
MFS008

Now unplug the TWO connectors on the back of the MFS (you can do this before removing the bolts but it's kind of a PITA and I preferred to be able to move the MFS around to get a better angle to pull those off). This is where I used the flathead screwdriver. It helps to be able to lift those clips a bit but be careful and DON'T BREAK THEM.

MFS011

Now, you can plug the new MFS in (MUCH easier than pulling the connectors out) and reconnect those bolts. Put the two panels back on, reattach that short screw on the right side:
MFS006

Then put the other three screws back in. Now, grab your keys. You'll need to play with this a bit but ultimately you need to turn the key in the ignition cylinder so that the little pin ON the cylinder depresses. Then line the cylinder up and put it back in. Make sure you can turn the key like normal.

Reconnect the battery and see if your new MFS works!
 
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Ishodu

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Thanks for taking the time to put this together it will be help in the future for sure. The thread is now a sticky!
 

kevinspann

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For most people, those two bolts that hold the metal knee panel under the column will be a T-30 torx. Not sure who put that hardware in your car, but it ain't right.
 

Ashley_MTX

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For most people, those two bolts that hold the metal knee panel under the column will be a T-30 torx. Not sure who put that hardware in your car, but it ain't right.

The info from the How to Pull Your Dash thread also lists the T-20. I'll put in an edit about that though- thanks!

-Ashley
 

kevinspann

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The info from the How to Pull Your Dash thread also lists the T-20. I'll put in an edit about that though- thanks!

-Ashley

You had the T-20 for the MFS correct, its this step that takes the T30:

Then, below the steering wheel there are TWO bolts on the kick panel that you need to remove. One is at the top left, the other at the top right.

The top left one on my car took the phillips:
MFS002
The top right took the 5/12 hex
MFS003

Also listed in step 14 on the "How to remove your dash" as T30 :p

Anyways, you are quite correct on not breaking the clips on the MFS connector. Some one who worked on my car before did that, and the connector came off, leading to no turn signals. I found this out of course, after I got another MFS and went to swap it out. I ended up cutting the connector off of a car at the junkyard and swapping all of the wiring over to it.
 

Guido0136

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Alright several people have talked about replacing the MFS but no one has followed through to say whether that has worked or to specifically put up a how-to on the MFS. (You can get the information from the How to Pull a Dash thread)

But here is a basic step-by-step for SPECIFICALLY just the MFS.

Here are ALL the tools used: Basic ratchet, I used a 13 mm socket for disconnecting the battery, a T-20 torque bit, a phillips screwdriver, a flathead screwdriver, an extension, and a 5/12 hex (or a T-30 for most of you but that isn't pictured).

View attachment 49850

First, disconnect the battery just to be safe. This is where the 13mm socket came in for me.
View attachment 49851

Then, below the steering wheel there are TWO bolts on the kick panel that you need to remove. One is at the top left, the other at the top right.

The top left one on my car took the phillips:
View attachment 49852
The top right took the 5/12 hex
View attachment 49853

The lower right/left hex bolts were NOT removed. On these bolts is where most of you may find that you need the T-30 instead of the hex key/screwdriver. You may have to wiggle the panel a bit.

Now, you need to take the ignition cylinder out. On the right hand side of the steering column there are THREE holes. The one in the middle is the one you need to focus on now:
View attachment 49854

Put your key in the ignition, turn it to the "run" position. While the key is in the run position stick a screwdriver or hex key up into this hole to depress the pin. With the pin depressed take hold of the cylinder and pull. It should come out fairly easily.

Then, you need to remove the panels around the steering column. (You shouldn't need to remove the gauge cluster or any part of the dash)

There are THREE screws that take the phillips screwdriver to remove.

ONE on the left hand side of the steering column:
You can see it here:
View attachment 49855
and here:
View attachment 49856

and TWO on the right hand side.
View attachment 49857

You also need to remove a shorter screw (phillips again) on the right hand side at the back of the steering column right at the seam between the top and bottom of those panels:
View attachment 49858

Take the bottom panel off first (it will make taking the top off easier). Again, this takes a bit of wiggle. Then pull the top off. Lots of wiggle here but it will come off.

Next, you need your T-20 Torque Bit. There are TWO bolts that need to come off, one on top and one on the bottom of the column. I used an extension to give myself a little more room to move as the ratchet was a little bulky for the space. (The extension had to get around the lever on the bottom but still worked fine)

View attachment 49859
View attachment 49860
View attachment 49861

Now unplug the TWO connectors on the back of the MFS (you can do this before removing the bolts but it's kind of a PITA and I preferred to be able to move the MFS around to get a better angle to pull those off). This is where I used the flathead screwdriver. It helps to be able to lift those clips a bit but be careful and DON'T BREAK THEM.

View attachment 49862

Now, you can plug the new MFS in (MUCH easier than pulling the connectors out) and reconnect those bolts. Put the two panels back on, reattach that short screw on the right side:
View attachment 49863

Then put the other three screws back in. Now, grab your keys. You'll need to play with this a bit but ultimately you need to turn the key in the ignition cylinder so that the little pin ON the cylinder depresses. Then line the cylinder up and put it back in. Make sure you can turn the key like normal.

Reconnect the battery and see if your new MFS works!

This is an amazing write up. I was able to change mine in less than 1 hour. Wipers, washer pump and hazard lights work again! Thanks Again!!
 

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