HOw much for turbo's

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SHOMurph

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SHO--ripper said:
I totally agree munkee. A low boost setup can be done for less than 20 grand. It all depends on who you know, and what you can do with cars.

Make it happen! I need a low boost turbo for my Gen 1. You fabricate it and I'll buy it.
 

munkee

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Make it happen! I need a low boost turbo for my Gen 1. You fabricate it and I'll buy it.
Are you planning on sticking with the 3.0 or going to a 3.2? You want to use a FMIC or go without? I assume you would rather a bolt on kit? More questions to follow, or email me if you already have some specifics in mind.
 

SASHO91

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im with mr Anonymous. "Find a nice SHO, keep it clean and well maintained, and just enjoy driving it. If you want to go mod-crazy, buy a Mustang or some rice car and have at it. The SHO is not a car to be modding on a budget." thats what i think is better well conisidering im in colloge and the cash isnt there with a part time job. i mean for a big project like that. but any extra cash is going in to it though! :thumb:
 

freeze

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well back to the orginal question. you can put a turbo on a stock motor for $4,562.63. and thats if you know how to weld and some other things. on the other side of the coin if you know nothing and have to pay someone to do all the work then it will cost you alot of money.$8,447.68 to be exact.
 

Hack

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FWIW, I think that gas-it said $5, not $5,000.

At any rate, I can give you the names of two shops in Washington state that will do the job (a single turbo on a V-6 SHO) for approximately $4500. That includes basic fuel system (pump, injectors, regulator) the turbo, piping, manifolds, FMIC, and a few other odds and ends. Unless you bring them a way to properly tune the EEC, they will do the typical BS tricks that work on most cars to make it run somewhere near OK. In other words, you have to buy a TwEECer or SCTuner.

After that is done, as stated repeatedly here and in the multitude of other threads, you will have to upgrade damn near every other aspect of the car. If you do not, you will have a car that is not only highly unreliable, but also downright dangerous (as far as stock brakes are concerned).

I headed down this path already. After spending a ridiculous amount (I have not kept track, and am glad I haven't as the numbers would cause heart failure when I saw it) prepping all aspects of suspension, drivetrain, brakes, and more I decided that I would be better off with a built naturally aspirated motor.

I spent approximately $6500 on drivetrain alone. And that was taking a short cut and not buying the SHONut HD gearset. How is that possible?

Quaife $1200
SS Hi-Revs Race clutch kit $800
Aluminum flywheel $500
SHONut ceramic TOB $150
SHONut stage 5 CV axles $900
Jose's SHOrt throw shifter with a couple extras $400
Rod Shifter conversion kit $300 (approximately, purchased new eight years ago and just installed)
Assembly of transaxle, including Quaife install, ceramalubed gears, cryo treatment, and Gary Morell's shim specs $2000
plus fluid, shipping, and installation labor.

It is very arguable that you will need all of these things (with the exceptions of the rod and SHOrt shifters, and the aluminum flywheel) to keep your drivetrain intact when running 300+lb/ft of torque. Some food for thought.

That being said, go to the bank and get a loan for $8200. Then contact Chris Benvie and buy his supercharged 92 that is for sale right now in the classified section. You will save a TON of money that way.
 

Ferendon

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Is it just me... or did he say he was JUST WONDERING?!?!?!?!
Why does everyone start bashing when someone brings this kind of stuff up. Chris everytime I read your posts nowadays you're not being very nice! Nothing personal, but please, cool your jets man. You're one of the smarter guys on here, and you should compose yourself as one. He simply asked WHAT IT WOULD COST. Hypothetical situation, hypothetical question. He's not making plans to do so, just asking. Maybe he doesn't know the unrealistic aspects of a Turbo SHO. There's no point in freaking on him. You're just gonna scare him away from the forum, or make him scared to ask, what you consider "stupid", questions. There's no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid answers.
"He who asks appears as a fool for a moment. He who stays silent remains a fool forever"
 

Chris Benvie

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Hack said:
That being said, go to the bank and get a loan for $8200. Then contact Chris Benvie and buy his supercharged 92 that is for sale right now in the classified section. You will save a TON of money that way.


I Like this guy!!

:)


Ferendon, I was not trying to come off as mean, or crude, just stating the facts. Everyone pretty much re-iterated what I said, i don't think we scared him away, and if THAT scared him away, then he never will build a turbo SHO,cause the thoughts of a turbo SHO are just SCARY as it is.

Good day. :thumb:
 

ShoGuy93

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Chris Benvie said:
I Like this guy!!

:)


Ferendon, I was not trying to come off as mean, or crude, just stating the facts. Everyone pretty much re-iterated what I said, i don't think we scared him away, and if THAT scared him away, then he never will build a turbo SHO,cause the thoughts of a turbo SHO are just SCARY as it is.

Good day. :thumb:


Hahahaha!
 

Mr Anonymous

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Ferendon said:
Is it just me... or did he say he was JUST WONDERING?!?!?!?!
Why does everyone start bashing when someone brings this kind of stuff up.
"Just wondering" doesn't mean "don't tell me the good the bad and the ugly." For those who haven't seen the countless threads on how to S/C or turbo their car on a shoestring budget, getting the full picture early on will help them understand what the options are, and what to expect.

If someone had just answered his question with "$5000-$25000" and left it at that, do you not think he'd be asking follow-up questions?

I think what you're calling bashing is simply brutal honesty. The sooner people can have a clear picture of what options are there for mods, the better it is for them and their wallets.
 

Ferendon

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Then let him. Give him the answers he needs, and I personally don't think it's neccesaryto tell him to "give up the dream, and buy Chris's car". It just seems to me that you guys are calling him stupid in fewer words...
 

Hack

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FWIW, I suggested buying Chris's car because if I could start over right now that is what I would do. I would rather spend $8000 (or less, like Panama Pat!) on a project that is 80%+ completed than start from scratch and spend two, three, or four times that amount for the same result.

Chris Davey(SHO-ripper) is in the midst of proving that a turbo SHO can be built for a "reasonable" price as we type. I think he has made as much progress as he has because he is doing his homework, most of the work himself, and because he is keeping his expectations reasonable. Anyone willing to put in the blood, sweat, and tears can do the same. More power to 'em!
 

Yamaha V6

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Ferendon said:
It just seems to me that you guys are calling him stupid in fewer words...

As an owner of not one but two forced-induction SHOs, and a guy who's built them, I will come right out & say it...

ANYONE who supercharges / turbos a SHO has got to either be STUPID, a *********, has too much time & money on their hands, or in the rare case, really wants something a little more unique.

LOGICALLY it makes absolutely no sense to supercharge these cars in 99.9% of the cases. They are not good quarter-mile cars, reliability becomes a serious issue, costs are outrageous, parts are harder & harder to find (and when you can find them, they're going to cost you serious coin), and it's very hard to insure them for the cost of replacement (trust me, I know).

Now, if you are still serious about doing this to a SHO, the people here on the Forum are going to be pulling for you. But, the bottom line is, it's not going to be easy, it's not going to be cheap, it's not going to happen overnight, and chances are, you're not going to nail the configuration right out of the starting gate, and that means you stand a good chance at blowing it up (though it'll be a trip for that short period it's on the road!). Above all else, I guarantee you a SERIOUSLY emotional experience if you own one - you'll love it and / or hate it, no where in between. It'll never be boring.

Given the continual influx of "kids" who come onto this board & ask the typical "'Sup Homiez, I want 2 QuAd TuRbO my 300,000 mile, original clutch, warped brakes SHO that I just picked up for $1000, oh and I want 2 know how 2 do it for under $400, yo..." type of questions day in & day out, it's completely understandable the reaction you're going to get. Almost ALL of the people who ask questions like that are not in any position to undertake a project like that, be it for lack of serious commitment, funds, or understanding of what's really involved.

And, I've been the first to tell people (most of the time), that it IS the best to just pick one up that's already done, rather than reinventing the wheel, if you're at the starting gate of a project like that.

You want a fully prepped, 500hp SHO, **** I'll sell you mine for the bargain basement price of $10k. I was almost joking about the costs before - here's what it would cost to duplicate mine (rounded figures), no labor, not counting the CHASSIS you decide to use:

$4500 SHO Shop 3.2L Engine
$4500 SHO Shop Supercharger Kit, 15psi
$125 Walbro 240lph Fuel Pump
$50 K&N Filter
$360 Accel 48# Fuel Injectors
$650 Stage 2 Camshafts
~$600 worth of plugs, wires, gaskets, other 60k parts
$3000 Quaife, Install Kit, Race Clutch, 17lb Flywheel
$110 Tq Limiters
$75 Aluminum Subframe Bushings
$400 in front new bushings, endlinks, tie rod ends, control arms
$400 Rear Adjustable Control Arms
$100 in rear strut rods, bushings, endlinks
$500 Exhaust - new Dynomax cat-back + used catless Y
OR
Well over $1000 for the headers & True Duals
$600 Roll Bar
$250 5-point Harnesses, mount point hardware, etc.
~$250 in gauges
$1750 or so for a 4-piston Wilwood front brake kit
$85 in stainless braided lines kit (used for the rear; fronts already part of kit)
~$300 in rear brake upgrade items
$800-1000 - 17x8 wheels
$600 in performance tires
~$100 in new wheel bearings, installed
$100 in rod bearing replacement parts (to be performed annually)
~$1500 worth of custom coilovers, Koni inserts, installed
$400 in Big Bores & Ported Runners

$(UNKNOWN) time in dyno testing & tuning... I have over 100 pulls on the dyno.

So, as you can see, it's pretty easy to drop $20,000 into a supercharged SHO. Oh, and mine has a nice big rust hole in the pass. rear fender, needs a paint job, and has no radio, no cruise, no AC, no rear interior, no trunk insulation, etc.

Remember, that's also no labor for the above list - just parts. I also didn't add in the normal things like new radiator, hoses, etc etc.

The guys here aren't pulling your leg - it's really probably not going to be a cheap undertaking.
 

Oz

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Amen to what Fred said.

ALL of it.

Btw, Fred, check the mod forums. I replied to your post.
 

munkee

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And it's amazing at how easy it is to add figures up in your head and think what the heck is he talking about, I think I can do it for half that amount. The best thing to do when you want to plan something like this is to get a pad of paper and write down what your goal is for the car. Then make categories of everything that will need to be upgraded or worked on. Then go through the entire car (yes, physically go through it) and write down each part that needs replaced or upgraded in each category. I have a list for my turbo project that is 55 pages long. I have spent literally months of time researching parts from various companies and comparing prices and products to get a solid idea of what I want on the car. I also keep a close eye on Ebay when I have the money to try and cut costs when I can. I ended up getting my turbo for almost half price that way.
As an owner of not one but two forced-induction SHOs, and a guy who's built them
That right there is the best reason to listen to this guy. YamahaV6, that reply should be a sticky, one that everyone who asks the question "how much for FI" should be automatically directed too. :thumb:
 

Broadkil

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newbie asking a dumb question

ok, your working on a turbo sho right?

i have a 91+ to my name, i LOVE this car. but........

now mind ya im not out to race the damn thing nor do i really wanna deal with the local ricer crowd :madflame: (they just flat out annoy me)
but id like something that will scare the ***** outta the little bastids. :rant:
afterall in my region, amlost no one knows what a SHO even is
and i get sick and tired of the highpitched whine of hondas (and thier drivers)

would it be even possible or even reasonable to have a low psi turbo (ie 6 or 7 psi) and still use some of the factory drive train and suspention?

i ask this only as a dream idea with no real hopes of this happenning soon (or ever). it would just be nice to see the little "lincon park" whiny angsty wussies totaly crap as what appers to be thier moms car pull away from them. :eek:

btw..ill be the first to call me a nut, so please dont take what i say to damn serious. its all just dreaming.
 

Off Road SHO

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would it be even possible or even reasonable to have a low psi turbo (ie 6 or 7 psi) and still use some of the factory drive train and suspention? [/QUOTE said:
 

freeze

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anything is possible, you could do a low boost system and keep alot of the car stock, but here is your problem. first, if you do the system yourself plan on about 5k for the turbo system only. second here are some of the problems you will run in too, when I ride or drive toolman's (he is my little brother :D ) car, low boost was great, then you go to 10 psi then 12 and its insane, but it is in all of us, you want more. you get greedy and at 15 psi tranny goes boom :eek: so sooner of later you are going to have to spend more money if you want it on the road, that is where they get you have to spend 20k if you want a turbo idea. speed is never cheap.
 

Toolman

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Exactly. The SHO plus that was turbo'd was on stock internals, stock tranny (except Quaife). Ran 12.7's (lightened, stripped, lexan windows etc). Has blown tranny a number of times. Looks like crap, and while powerful I would suggest that it is far from being optimally tuned or reliable. Granted, he only spent a few thousand on it, but it probably has less miles on its setup than I put on my SHO in a week.

FWIW, my car does in excess of 180 (trust me, I know). Runs 115 in the 1/4 (and that with ONLY 383 hp and 358 ft lbs, I now have 430whp and 412 ft lbs, on pump gas, with only 13 psi), has a decent stereo, has a working A/C, has all the brakes (13 front, 11.6 rear), suspension (coilovers, wheels, bushings, knuckle braces, SFC's, STB's, TRCA's etc) and other necessary modifications, AND got me 30,000+ miles with nary a problem last year (except busting 3rd gear) AND took me to California, performed at the track decently (for its first outing, not counting my poor driving), and then took me back home (5000+ miles, in July, through the desert). Were it not for me leaving a gasket out of my downpipe and causing some melted hoses the trip would have been fairly uneventful.

So yes, you can build a turbo SHO cheap. Then shortly thereafter you can have a very expensive paperweight. Speed does not always cost money. Reliable speed does.
 

gas it

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So to makes me a 6psi turbo I won't break much. But 6psi is like shootin myself in the foot....

$20k for the all out breaks every other month 15psi turbo or superchargers. Sheeeeet. I buys me a WRX and den I ain't got to do da All-Wheel-Drive SHO conversion......dat be da one for me ya.



You want a fully prepped, 500hp SHO, **** I'll sell you mine for the bargain basement price of $10k. I was almost joking about the costs before - here's what it would cost to duplicate mine (rounded figures), no labor, not counting the CHASSIS you decide to use:

$4500 SHO Shop 3.2L Engine
$4500 SHO Shop Supercharger Kit, 15psi
$125 Walbro 240lph Fuel Pump
$50 K&N Filter
$360 Accel 48# Fuel Injectors
$650 Stage 2 Camshafts
~$600 worth of plugs, wires, gaskets, other 60k parts
$3000 Quaife, Install Kit, Race Clutch, 17lb Flywheel
$110 Tq Limiters
$75 Aluminum Subframe Bushings
$400 in front new bushings, endlinks, tie rod ends, control arms
$400 Rear Adjustable Control Arms
$100 in rear strut rods, bushings, endlinks
$500 Exhaust - new Dynomax cat-back + used catless Y
OR
Well over $1000 for the headers & True Duals
$600 Roll Bar
$250 5-point Harnesses, mount point hardware, etc.
~$250 in gauges
$1750 or so for a 4-piston Wilwood front brake kit
$85 in stainless braided lines kit (used for the rear; fronts already part of kit)
~$300 in rear brake upgrade items
$800-1000 - 17x8 wheels
$600 in performance tires
~$100 in new wheel bearings, installed
$100 in rod bearing replacement parts (to be performed annually)
~$1500 worth of custom coilovers, Koni inserts, installed
$400 in Big Bores & Ported Runners

$(UNKNOWN) time in dyno testing & tuning... I have over 100 pulls on the dyno.

So, as you can see, it's pretty easy to drop $20,000 into a supercharged SHO. Oh, and mine has a nice big rust hole in the pass. rear fender, needs a paint job, and has no radio, no cruise, no AC, no rear interior, no trunk insulation, etc.

Remember, that's also no labor for the above list -
 

FordLover

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Yamaha V6 said:
Given the continual influx of "kids" who come onto this board & ask the typical "'Sup Homiez, I want 2 QuAd TuRbO my 300,000 mile, original clutch, warped brakes SHO that I just picked up for $1000, oh and I want 2 know how 2 do it for under $400, yo..." type of questions day in & day out, it's completely understandable the reaction you're going to get. Almost ALL of the people who ask questions like that are not in any position to undertake a project like that, be it for lack of serious commitment, funds, or understanding of what's really involved.

I agree whole heartedly. There's a reason only 1 daily driven Turbo SHO exists. I've heard for over four YEARS of people who are 'working' on a turbo SHO project. Amazingly not one of the projects has produced a running turbo'd SHO...
-Martin

Great quote...
So yes, you can build a turbo SHO cheap. Then shortly thereafter you can have a very expensive paperweight. Speed does not always cost money. Reliable speed does. -Tim T.
 

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