HELP!!!! Need to get valve covers off (sdpatt?)

[93redATX]

What tool do you use to get the valve covers off? I tried hex heads and those didn't work. If it is hex, what size? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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-Andy

'93 Red/Black ATX
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[sdpatt]

They are 5mm Allen head bolts. It is easiest to use an Allen socket with extensions. Be sure to insert the bit all the way to the bottom of the hole to prevent damaging the chrome plated head of the bolts. On each valve cover, there are 8 long bolts on the face of the valve cover and 2 short ones on the driver side. The rear valve cover has interferences with the wiring harness on the passenger side and the EGR pipe on the driver side. You also have to remove the 2 10mm bolts that secure the fuel lines to the rear cover.

When reinstalling them, a dab of O2 sensor safe RTV (Permatex Ultra Gray) is placed on the right angles at the cam *********** seals and the forward bank exhaust cam end plug. Be sure to use a torque wrench on the valve cover bolts. The setting is only 9-11 lb-ft. That is easily exceeded by using only one finger on the wrench. You can easily strip out the 1/2" deep threads in the aluminum heads or break their long shaft.

Scott

 

[tsho2]

Use a 5mm allen head socket. (6 US dollars a set at places like www.jcwhitney.com, etc)
I've had success with not using the torque specs in the manual, as I've noted some to bottom out in the holes in the head. I'm not sure you could properly torque a bolt that has bottomed out and it may very well be the reason that some have had problems with stripped threads in the aluminum head.
Just tighten them until they are snug, then a bit more and note if they feel as though they are bottoming out in the holes.




[This message has been edited by tsho2 (edited 12-02-2001).]

 

[sdpatt]

It's not the threaded portion of the bolt that bottoms out, it's the ****** above the threads that seats against the flat surface at the tapped surface of the head. The photo below shows a valve cover bolt that I had sheared the threaded portion off in the head. I had to tap and E-Z out the 1/2" long threaded section of the bolt from the head. You can see the flat seating surface at the far right of the bolt. That is what seats against the head. Apply more than 9-11 lb-ft and you risk shearing the bolt or stripping the threads from the head. Neither is a good thing. I have learned my lesson. Set the torque wrench twice, torque once.

Scott

 

[IVEYSSHO]

I've gotten to the point where I cut and paste all of Scott's replies to a word document whether I need that piece of advice or not. Seems to me that eventually I will be working on something and wonder what Scott's opinion....never fear, the big word document in SHO folder the garage is handy. Like having the master there with me under the hood.

just a suggestion for others.

Hmmm.....wonder if Scott could market that book of knowledge to FORD/Yamaha?

 

[95SHOATX]

I agree. I have started a SHO Hints and Tips for general knowledge of the SHO since becoming a member of this very informative forum based on all of Scott's responses.
Scott(sdpatt) could you explain where the RTV is to be applied on the new valve cover snd plub seal gaskets?
Thanks.

 

[tsho2]

The bolt in the picture looks like a case of galvanic corrosion. Make sure you use anti-seize on the bolts too.

 

[sdpatt]

Thanks for the kind comments. The bolt in the picture has an abundance of gray RTV on the head area to keep it sealed against the valve cover until I could receive and install the replacement bolt. There is no galvanic or other corrosion on the bolt that was in my engine for 225,000 miles. It's probably more an effect of the lighting in the photograph.

Scott

 

[sdpatt]

Originally posted by 95SHOATX:
Scott(sdpatt) could you explain where the RTV is to be applied on the new valve cover and plug seal gaskets?
Thanks.

In the attached picture of the front cylinder head, I have marked the locations where the sensor safe RTV is applied. The rear bank requires the RTV in the same four locations (at the right angles by the camshaft penetrations).

Scott

 

[95SHOATX]

Scott thanks for the picture! Would I also use RTV on the head surface and backside of the valve covers for the plug well seals?

 

[sdpatt]

No, as long as the seals are in good shape, RTV is not required elsewhere. If you have gone through the trouble to get the valve covers off, it is just as easy to replace the seals as to install the old ones. If you are aware of any oil in the plug wells, you should plan ahead and buy the valve cover and plug well seals before the disassembly begins.

Scott

[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 12-03-2001).]