Having problems with either wheel bearings or brakes, sqeaking problem continued...

[Dr. Tweak]

Okay, I've had this problem for some time now and I think I know what it is but I just wanted to run it by you all. For several months now I've had this bad sqeaking problem coming from one or more of my wheels. The squeaking goes away immediately if:

1. I press on the brakes
2. I turn the steering wheel either way more then 15*

Now, I had this same problem on my SLO, when I replaced the pads which were shot it went away. I did the same thing on my SHO, but the problem did not go away.

I took off the rear wheel the other day because I noticed that it seemed like the passenger side had some serious negative camber. (Keep in mind that the rear suspension needs help). The less than 1 year old pads are worn down to NOTHING. Especially the outside one is worn.

When I did the rear brakes I disconnected the parking brake cables becuase I couldn't get them back on, assuming that they need to be replaced.

Also, when I shut the car off and I am still rolling, I can hear a grinding noise from the rear of the car.

So I'm thinking either bad brake lines at the rear wheel, or a bad wheel bearing. The caliper was replaced when I did the brakes, possibly that is defective? Any other thoughts?

I realize that I need to to the wheel bearing test out back, I probably will tomorrow when I put my snow tires on.

 

[n8rsk8r]

I had that problem, It happened when I changed the caliper, it drove me crazy, it could be the guide pins are catching, but what cured mine were new calipers, they are not expensive, but you know that, I would hook the PB up if I were you, just in case. That nasty sand in between metal is from the pads I am sure, I used to get a high (AND I AM TALKING HURT YOUR EAR HIGH) pitched screatch/wine when I turned to the right, no other way, just to the right. I changed out pads and brake calipers and shot that pin **** inside the caliper and into the boot till it was all gooped up, then reinstalled the pins, not a problem since.

 

[revhardSHO]

Yes its typical for the slider pins to bind or even lock up over time due to ripped boots, moisture, etc. I re-****/clean the slider pins and caliper brackets about once a year to keep the system working properly. Just about every SHO I have bought needs this attention. The rear rubber brake lines can also fail over time causing a grinding/sticking caliper. They can be had for about $54.99 from your local Autozone.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

The pins have all new boots and have been regreased, just a couple months ago.

 

[yamahaSHO]

I've currently got the same problem with my '92. I've troubleshot it down to the drivers-front brake. It will squeak while driving, but not when I depress the brake. It will also diminish if I slighty turn the wheel to the right.

I recently replaced the brake pads and rotors. I found the the side in question had considerable more wear than the opposite side. Tonight after some driving, I found that the rotor was much warmer too. When I had it all apart, I greased the slider pins, but they did not look the best.

Next weekend, I am going to replace the calipers, slider pins, and brake lines(stainless). I'm thinking this will be the fix as my wheel bearings feel tight.

 

[n8rsk8r]

how much did you get your stainless lines for?

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Update:

Okay, I switched to my winter tires today, and here's what I found.

No play at all with any of the wheels.

Severe wear on the outside pad of the driver front brakes. (Will need to be changed soon.)

Dust shield contacting brake rotor on passenger front brakes. Possibly the culprit of the squeaking noise. It was bent back into place and seems to be okay.

Rear passenger wheel, severe wear on both pads and rotor. The wheel spins freely with little drag except for one place when it's rotating. Seems like a warped rotor. The rotor and pads need to be replace immedietely, I am also going to replace all the brake lines. This caliper was replaced last year so it *should* be working fine. The pin boots are in good shape.

Any further thoughts?

On another note, by BRAND NEW cv joint boot is ripped on the passenger side. I wonder if the warranty covers that?

 

[Rockledge]

On another note, by BRAND NEW cv joint boot is ripped on the passenger side.

Already? I thought you just replaced it. (They do pave the roads up there, don't they? )

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Already? I thought you just replaced it. (They do pave the roads up there, don't they? )

I know it! I have no idea how it happened, but oh well...

 

[SHO SPD]

Its the pad material, you should go get some ceramix pads from napa or something. That will take car of the squeeking. They are expensive, but the best.

 

[yamahaSHO]

It is not just the pad material. If you have a constant rythmic squeak, it could be do to warped rotors, sticking calipers, or wheel bearings. I have the same pads and rotors on both sides of my car and I only have the squeak from one side. I bet if Josh were to feel the rotors after a drive, the squeaking side would be much warmer.

The advice you are telling him to do may not fix his problem.

 

[Mike Gallion]

FWIW I had a very similar problem with my 95 this summer. I replaced calipers, rotors and pads and soon discovered one or both of my rear brakes were dragging and really heating up the rotors. I was sure that the calipers and slides were functioning properly since I had just cleaned and lubricated the slides in addition to replacing the aforementioned parts. As things turned out, I finally was able to resolve the issue by replacing the slide pins with new ones. The old ones were slightly discolored but had no pitting or other obvious damage. For the price, I will always replace those buggers whenever I do a brake job!

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Well, I now have all new brake lines, calipers, cables, rotors, and pads out back. Everything is well except I need to finish bleeding the brakes, after I replace the front calipers (bleeder screws are frozen).

Then I'll have all new brakes! (Replacing front lines, pads and rotors as well.)