Gulf Coast SHO with some issues.

[TicoSHO]

93 3.2 Automatic
I just got my first SHO. Wow, what a car.
I would really appreciate any help you can give me. I just got my SHO from my bosses daughter (18 years old).
I am ashamed to admit that I didn't know much about them until about a two months ago. I somehow didn't find out about them in my 31 years. My family's always been chevy buyers, and I'm not what you would consider a gear head or even a car nut, but how could I miss a car a great as the SHO. I now spend all day at work just waiting till five so I can scream up US19 on the way home. It makes other traffic seem like it's just standing still. 0 to 45, Bang. 45-65, Bang. 65-95, BANG! And don't get me started on the sound of the engine. Like nothing else on the road.
You guys and girls already know all that, I just can't stop raving about this car. Sorry, I'll try and be concise but I want to be though.
On to my problem.
About three weeks ago I went out to start it up in the morning. It took three tries but then ran fine. Two day later same thing. On the way home that night the RPMs dipped from about 950 down to around 450 then back up to 1200. Did this twice in a row almost died then ran fine all the way home. Next day went out to go home at 5pm she wouldn't start. Turn over fine but no go. had two leave it all weekend. Came in on monday and ask bosses about history of car and he told me she used to tap on the black box on top of the radiator (was told it is the multi function swith). Went out and tapped and it started up right away. several times since I would not hear the pump prime so I would pop the hood, tap the black box, and off we go.
Two weeks ago I went out to run errands on a hot day. After 15 mins at a light it started to dip in RPMs again. Sounded like it was running out of gas but it had 3/4 tank. RPMs dipped three times and then it died. Started right back up and ran fine all day. Next day same thing 15 mins into the trip and she died at a light. Started right back up, but it happened once more that day. All week I drove it to work with it cutting out more and more. Three times one day, four times the next and so on. Pump prime started to get more high pitched and louder or maybe I was noticing it more. Started to run rough sometimes. Like it was dropping cylinders or starving for air.
Two days ago I went out to go to work and she wouldn't start. No pump prime. Tap Tap. Nothing.
I will try to pull the codes tomorrow and that should help out but if anyone recongnizes the symptoms please help me out.
I promise I'll be more concise in the future.
Thanks

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

Its sounds like your fuel pump is (least thats what it was on mine). The "Tap the black box on the radiator" trick could be a loose or corroded connection. I would be leary of the physical condition of the pump as well. Easy to diagnose the pump condition as you should get 30 psi on initial key on engine off. Pressure should also be 30 psi or more after you start the car. Measure it at the schrader valve on the fuel rail on top of the motor. An air pressure gauge will sometimes work.

 

[92inPA]

First of all, welcome to SHOwnership and to SHOforum.

Sounds like you already know what the problem is, but just don't realize it. That black box you tapped on is the CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module). Yours contains four mechanical relays and two solid state relays. One of those mechanical relays controls the fuel pump. Since tapping on the CCRM used to fix it, I would bet it has finally died. Suggest you install a new CCRM before replacing the fuel pump.

RockAuto.com sells the relay. At their web site click on "Ford", "1993", "Taurus SHO", "3.2", "Electrical", "Electrical Switch & Relay", "Control Module Relay". There are a few choices and you must match the part number off your CCRM with the number on the new selection. Price is $66.79.

Good luck.

 

[MeSHOYouHow]

mine used to do this on hot days....i think mine is the crank position sensor though...also every time i start my car i have to prime my pump three times before i start it by turning the key back and forth. I think my check valve is bad in the fuel pump.

 

[Devin]

Are the terms CCRM and IRCM interchangeable or are they different in form and functionality?

 

[Racer X]

Are the terms CCRM and IRCM interchangeable or are they different in form and functionality?

I'm not sure if their functionality is explicitly different, but the form is pretty close.

The Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) is used only on the SHO. The IRCM (Integrated Relay Control Module) is used on the SLO and Mercury Sable. IIRC.

 

[SHO SPD]

Nice to have another SHO owner around here. I am in Naples. I would check the connection of that relay pack make sure its all clean. Besides the pump prime souds sort of like what happened to my friends when his crank pos. sens. went out. Good luck

 

[K-Dawg]

Glad to see some more Florida SHO owners on the forum. Y'all need to get together with us sometime.

It sounds like you've got the problem narrowed down to a a couple things, so you just need to read the codes to know for sure. I'd say its definitely fuel pump or CPS related.

 

[SonicRiot]

The dip in RPMs could be a completely unrelated problem, like, say a torque converter, if it happens when you are just about stopped (coasting to a stop).

I would check the fuel pump relay as well. use a test light for the control to check prime when the car has a no start condition.

 

[TicoSHO]

Replaced CCRM

Thank you for the welcome. I would like to get togther with some other florida owners once mine is running right. Everyone seems genuinely interested to keeping this beauties on the road and running good.
Went to used parts store and got a CCRM for $50 and put it in Sat night. She started right up but now it runs very rough. Like it has dropped a cylinder. Took it up to the store and it died three times. Happens when I am at idle or comng to a stop. Didn't drive it after but pulled the codes on Sun. Hope i did it right. I will put them here but also start a new thread.
Once again thanks for your help.


124 - Throttle position voltage was higher than expected

172 - Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single Right or Rear HO2S

173 - Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was rich - Single Right or Rear HO2S

176 - Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S

183 - Fuel system was lean at idle Single Right or Rear HO2S

216 - Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 2

332 - EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code did not open intermittantly

543 - Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power (Service 556 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open

 

[TicoSHO]

Gulf Coast SHO - Got some codes

Hey everybody
Thanks for the welcome. It's great to see such an active following for such a phenomenal car.
Just a recap. Car first didn't want to start but I tapped on the CCRM and she started fine. After about 2 weeks she started dying at lights. Not when I was comng to a stop but at idle. It got Progressively worse. still had CCRM issues and then one day she just wouldn't start. Replaced CCRM from used parts store for $50 bucks. She started just fine but now runs very rough. Took it to the store and back and she died three times. Same thing, dying at idle. Still only happens after ten minutes of driving. Tried to get on it at a light and seemed like it wouldn't even get to 4000 RPMs with the peddle mashed.
Tried to pull codes on Sunday and I think I did it right. This is what I got.
Once again thank you for the welcome and any help you can give.



124 - Throttle position voltage was higher than expected

172 - Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single Right or Rear HO2S

173 - Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was rich - Single Right or Rear HO2S

176 - Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S

183 - Fuel system was lean at idle Single Right or Rear HO2S

216 - Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 2

332 - EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code did not open intermittantly

543 - Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power (Service 556 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open

 

[SHOtimer]

I would question whether that used replacement CCRM was a correct one. Was the part number the same as well as the large capital letter on top of it? If not, it is not the right one. If so, maybe it is faulty also.

From the sound of your pump changing pitches, and noises it probably needs to be replaced. Do not buy a kragen or autzone..or napa pump. You are going to want a Walbro one..there are several places to get these.

Your coil might be bad (since it is throwing a code), which could be the result of the rough running. Best bet would be to swap it out with a known good one. (ie: local SHO owners in the area)

Also, looks like you need new o2 sensors. Get the Bosch ones from auto-zone.

That EGR code you can deal with when it is running properly.

How many miles are on your SHO?

You might be in need of a good 60k and definately since it is an ATX a good fluid and filter change.

Doug

 

[TicoSHO]

Changed CCRM and DIS

The CCRM I got does have the same Ford part number and the letter J. Since this is a used part could it affect my timing or idle? Do I need to reset my idle after replacing this part? Also I did replace the DIS ($150 new) before the no start problem. Could the Ignition coil code be from this old part or from somewhere else? I am going to try to replace to O2 sensors this weekend. When I pulled the codes does that reset the CEL? It came back on last night when I took it around the block. The problem is when the Engine comes up to temp the RPMs will dip down to about 550 and then die. It does not happen as I'm coming to a stop but at Idle. would the O2 sensors cause this or could it be something more expensive?
P.S. are there any SHO owners in Pinellas county that I could get together with?
Thanks

 

[SHOtimer]

The CCRM I got does have the same Ford part number and the letter J. Since this is a used part could it affect my timing or idle? Do I need to reset my idle after replacing this part? Also I did replace the DIS ($150 new) before the no start problem. Could the Ignition coil code be from this old part or from somewhere else? I am going to try to replace to O2 sensors this weekend. When I pulled the codes does that reset the CEL? It came back on last night when I took it around the block. The problem is when the Engine comes up to temp the RPMs will dip down to about 550 and then die. It does not happen as I'm coming to a stop but at Idle. would the O2 sensors cause this or could it be something more expensive?
P.S. are there any SHO owners in Pinellas county that I could get together with?
Thanks

When my o2's were bad, the CEL would behave the same way yours is (ie: when it turned on), I also had an idle problem like that. Two new o2's fixed it. However, you do seem to have a significant ignition issue. No, that CCRM should not affect idle or timing settings. It is just a relay that turns things on and off (fuel pump, fans, AC...)

Doug

 

[SonicRiot]

The O2 sensors in a pre-OBD-II vehicle will not turn on the CE. The misfiring from the stalling will.