SeanDev

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Did you run it with just the rear before having the plates welded on for the front mount? I have a 2017 so I’m curious how much is improved with just the rear mount, or if the front it “necessary”
Yes I ran for months with just the rear, bad shifts, wheel hop gone. But now that I've added even more power, it was time to add front mount. Probably the best investment on my car so far out of the thousands I've spent, have been the AD mounts.
 

SeanDev

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UPDATE: I called the Ford dealer, they said they 110% replace the torque converter whenever they replace a transmission (which was replaced 1.5 years ago). Matt from GH was talking about strategy codes and the valvebody with the new tranny as well, so I asked about that and the Ford dealer said they have to do that or else the new transmission just won’t work right. Now, the torque converter could have gone bad over the last 1.5 years, although I doubt it? Kinda just bummed. No idea what this could be. Matt sent me a softer shifting tune which helped minimally, but the problem still persists. I do have a warranty so I can bring it to Ford for free but in that case, I’d have to revert my car back to stock and then the problem may not be there anymore, in which they’d probably just tell me that everything is fine. Dealt with this issue with LMS for almost 2 years, decided to buy GH and it’s still here. I still doubt it’s the GH tune since all of you have like no issues, but damn, tranny mounts could be contributing but I doubt that’s the culprit of all this. Annoyed.
This is just a shot in the dark, but ask Ford to look to see if all your modules are getting along. When things get replaced, if the other modules don't recognize it then they only speak basic function to each other. If you use forscan, a software that can mimic fords diagnostic then you will be able to tell if all the modules are in sink. Got to be careful though, brick the PATS system and you'll do what I had to do and that was rebuild the registry for the entire car.
 

cordell

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This is just a shot in the dark, but ask Ford to look to see if all your modules are getting along. When things get replaced, if the other modules don't recognize it then they only speak basic function to each other. If you use forscan, a software that can mimic fords diagnostic then you will be able to tell if all the modules are in sink. Got to be careful though, brick the PATS system and you'll do what I had to do and that was rebuild the registry for the entire car.
Okay. I have an appt with the dealer in a couple weeks. Do you recommended just asking them like that? “Are all my modules getting along?” They said they did the valvebody strategy code thing with the new trans.
 

Ta2dResqr

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UPDATE: I called the Ford dealer, they said they 110% replace the torque converter whenever they replace a transmission (which was replaced 1.5 years ago). Matt from GH was talking about strategy codes and the valvebody with the new tranny as well, so I asked about that and the Ford dealer said they have to do that or else the new transmission just won’t work right. Now, the torque converter could have gone bad over the last 1.5 years, although I doubt it? Kinda just bummed. No idea what this could be. Matt sent me a softer shifting tune which helped minimally, but the problem still persists. I do have a warranty so I can bring it to Ford for free but in that case, I’d have to revert my car back to stock and then the problem may not be there anymore, in which they’d probably just tell me that everything is fine. Dealt with this issue with LMS for almost 2 years, decided to buy GH and it’s still here. I still doubt it’s the GH tune since all of you have like no issues, but damn, tranny mounts could be contributing but I doubt that’s the culprit of all this. Annoyed.
I cannot recommend the AD mounts enough. These cars are getting older and higher miles every day. Add in the fact that they are a performance marketed vehicle and the rubber has seen some wear and tear. Beefing it up with a better-designed and fresh product does wonders. Add in the fact that you are now sending more power through those components and exposing systems to loads and shocks they were not designed to see. The mounts are in my opinion the best $200 you can spend on these vehicles. After adding more power, I am now at the point I am considering the "window weld" mod to a new top mount just to keep things from moving around so much.

If it is only a MAP sensor and a tune to put your vehicle back to stock, I would try that before your trip to the dealer. It may help with piece of mind. You are out nothing but a bit of time. If it is still there, then you know it is not a tuning issue. (If you have been fighting it with 2 VERY different tuners, I highly doubt it is a tuning issue.)
 

cordell

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I cannot recommend the AD mounts enough. These cars are getting older and higher miles every day. Add in the fact that they are a performance marketed vehicle and the rubber has seen some wear and tear. Beefing it up with a better-designed and fresh product does wonders. Add in the fact that you are now sending more power through those components and exposing systems to loads and shocks they were not designed to see. The mounts are in my opinion the best $200 you can spend on these vehicles. After adding more power, I am now at the point I am considering the "window weld" mod to a new top mount just to keep things from moving around so much.

If it is only a MAP sensor and a tune to put your vehicle back to stock, I would try that before your trip to the dealer. It may help with piece of mind. You are out nothing but a bit of time. If it is still there, then you know it is not a tuning issue. (If you have been fighting it with 2 VERY different tuners, I highly doubt it is a tuning issue.)
My car is back on the stock tune now, and it shifts exactly how it’s supposed. “Cuts power” and let’s the shifts shift smoothly if that makes sense. No jolting or hesitation, completely fine like it should be. So I’ll try the AD mounts and see what happens I suppose, but my car runs fine stock.
 

Ta2dResqr

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My car is back on the stock tune now, and it shifts exactly how it’s supposed. “Cuts power” and let’s the shifts shift smoothly if that makes sense. No jolting or hesitation, completely fine like it should be. So I’ll try the AD mounts and see what happens I suppose, but my car runs fine stock.
Have you talked to GH and see if he will take a look at a stock datalog? If it is "cutting power" and letting it shift smoothly, it may be masking the problem. How many revisions do you have on your GH tune? Did he say it all looked fine or there was more to be revised?
 

cordell

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Have you talked to GH and see if he will take a look at a stock datalog? If it is "cutting power" and letting it shift smoothly, it may be masking the problem. How many revisions do you have on your GH tune? Did he say it all looked fine or there was more to be revised?
When I initially sent a log to him with the tune on, he said it looks like the torque converter is having trouble locking. I have not sent him a stock tune log though. Then I pulled my receipt, called the ford dealer and confirmed with them that they do indeed replace the torque converters whenever they do a transmission replacement - which was 15k miles ago. He specifically told me on the phone about the cutting power thing and it’s supposed to do that, which it does stock but not with the tune on, or maybe only 15% of the time it does with the tune on.
 

SeanDev

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Okay. I have an appt with the dealer in a couple weeks. Do you recommended just asking them like that? “Are all my modules getting along?” They said they did the valvebody strategy code thing with the new trans.
Yes they should easily be able to tell if there is a communication error. These errors won't light up the cel. Take it in stock, they maybe should rebuild the registry in all modules. It's possible, Ford has a website dedicated to being able to download all module configs for every Ford. And leave stock if she drives fine. Your back to good. If not, it's a bad tranny rebuild. And when you tune, please use GH or AJP, I use AJP and zero issues with tranny shift issues.
 

FiveLeeter918

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I’ve had mine on for a little over a week now. It shifts great through the gears at all throttle ranges, except I was getting a miss shift from 1st to 2nd under WOT. It would happen a couple times, then shift fine, then be hit or miss. I went to do a data log and it didn’t do it, and has only done it twice since then. The first since there was a slight drop in the road and my traction control light flashed, so it could’ve been the advance track being weird. Second time was at like 80% throttle. It also feels a little rough downshifting from 5th to 4th during deceleration. I sent a couple data logs and am just waiting to hear back. I’m going to throw an extra half quart of trans fluid in tomorrow and see what that does

it actually happens quite often on these cars where if TCS activates it will miss the 1-2 shift for some reason. AD trans mounts do help, but it can still happen occasionally. Best to just disable it when running on the street, though some do say they run faster with it engaged.
 

SeanDev

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Did you run it with just the rear before having the plates welded on for the front mount? I have a 2017 so I’m curious how much is improved with just the rear mount, or if the front it “necessary”
I went almost a year with just rear, had a speed shop weld brackets on frame just a month ago to get front mount on. I gave them front mount with AD mount already installed and they worked everything out on their own. More NVH, still tolerable, with just rear mount my wheel hop disappeared, but when I get around to finishing turbo upgrade, figured why not have a little more strengthening, couldn't hurt. Our years I believe upper mount was improved or something like that and that's why the front torsion/trans mount was deleted. This isn't my picture, it's from a member on here and I can't remember but anyway the shop duplicated this for little less than $200.
 

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SeanDev

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My car is back on the stock tune now, and it shifts exactly how it’s supposed. “Cuts power” and let’s the shifts shift smoothly if that makes sense. No jolting or hesitation, completely fine like it should be. So I’ll try the AD mounts and see what happens I suppose, but my car runs fine stock.
That's exactly how I started, a tune and 3-bar MAP sensor. And that's all it took for wheel hop/bad shifting, especially the 3-4 shift.
 

cordell

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Yes, I wheel hopped at 50mph on just a 3bar and 93 tune. Those OEM mounts fail at their job rather quickly. Worth the $200, or keep clinching your cheeks when you look in your rearview everytime you have hop/ bad shift. Wondering what parts of car you left in the road.
Guess I’ve just never felt wheelhop so I’m not certain it’s that.. time will tell.
 

SeanDev

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Guess I’ve just never felt wheelhop so I’m not certain it’s that.. time will tell.
If I had to do it all over again, I would have bought the mounts before I started the tune. Your going to want more power as time goes on, we all do, AD mounts will be a must.
 

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