GH Tune - Power Pack or Custom?

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AlexS925

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Been looking into different tunes as well as general performance upgrades on my new SHO. Gearhead seems to be a popular and reliable choice, however I'm trying to wrap my head around it. Would it be better to get their power pack option or just the custom tune and buy the parts individually? There's a big price difference, but I wouldn't mind spending the money for the power pack if that's what really gets the job done. I also don't want to overpay for something that I can mostly do or buy myself. I still have to do a PTU flush before the tune so I'm not in a huge rush but I want to have a plan before I do pull the trigger.
 

David Miller

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I did the power pack without the t-stat, and added the intercooler. I didn't know enough yet to try to part everything out separately. It was easier to get the pack. Matt did a great job with adjusting for my driving style and habits
PTU flush isn't real hard, but takes time and the correct suction tools unless you are putting in a drain plug (I use an air powered extractor)
 

yaycandy

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If its a daily driver I would go with gearhead because of his smooth shifting tune and auto octane. Im just throwing a number out there but between all the tunes I hear gearhead has less power but a 20hp less tune is still a huge improvement over the stock file. While retaining auto octane. Ajp and another tuner who's name is shouldn't be said have some hard wot shifts but a faster bang shift is faster usually. Upgraded mounts seem to help alot also. A tune like ajp with 93 or e30-e40 is a bit more advanced with extra time needed to make sure the car gets what it wants. Gearhead auto octane you can run regular or 93 and it would always be safe. Good for road tripping and dailying.

A lower tstat dosnt lower the temp much. I maybe noticed 5-10 degree differences on hot days. Royal purple ice dropped Temps lower than the lower tstat could on the stock tstat. Plugs would need regapped and buy a 3 bar map sensor to go along with a 93 octane tune. I cant think of anything else to maximize just a tune. Stock intake with k&n drop in is best for price and power. Downpipes, intercooler, hpfp all on stock turbos still Is good for around 400whp on an ethanol tune. Not much to get the car to maximum potential, just some expensive parts.
I have my ajp tunes on an sct x4 device, you can see 6-10 gauges at once on it and their larger touch screen one is even better.
 
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David Miller

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With gearhead, I went from 318hp/320ft-lb to 339hp/379ft-lb and 339hp/415ft-lb. High torque i think the ecu didn't control it fast enough. Shifting is firmer than stock but not a severe shock, still have stock engine/trans mounts. Mine is a daily driver running 30k miles a year. Auto octane is very nice when gas prices go up. Still runs a lot better and funner than stock.
 

yaycandy

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With gearhead, I went from 318hp/320ft-lb to 339hp/379ft-lb and 339hp/415ft-lb. High torque i think the ecu didn't control it fast enough. Shifting is firmer than stock but not a severe shock, still have stock engine/trans mounts. Mine is a daily driver running 30k miles a year. Auto octane is very nice when gas prices go up. Still runs a lot better and funner than stock.

More funner=more better
 

AlexS925

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If its a daily driver I would go with gearhead because of his smooth shifting tune and auto octane. Im just throwing a number out there but between all the tunes I hear gearhead has less power but a 20hp less tune is still a huge improvement over the stock file. While retaining auto octane. Ajp and another tuner who's name is shouldn't be said have some hard wot shifts but a faster bang shift is faster usually. Upgraded mounts seem to help alot also. A tune like ajp with 93 or e30-e40 is a bit more advanced with extra time needed to make sure the car gets what it wants. Gearhead auto octane you can run regular or 93 and it would always be safe. Good for road tripping and dailying.

A lower tstat dosnt lower the temp much. I maybe noticed 5-10 degree differences on hot days. Royal purple ice dropped Temps lower than the lower tstat could on the stock tstat. Plugs would need regapped and buy a 3 bar map sensor to go along with a 93 octane tune. I cant think of anything else to maximize just a tune. Stock intake with k&n drop in is best for price and power. Downpipes, intercooler, hpfp all on stock turbos still Is good for around 400whp on an ethanol tune. Not much to get the car to maximum potential, just some expensive parts.
I have my ajp tunes on an sct x4 device, you can see 6-10 gauges at once on it and their larger touch screen one is even better.
I'm just looking to do a basic tune for now, I don't want to sacrifice too much driveability and I also don't want a drop a ton of money (yet?) and spend the extra time mixing ethanol etc. I'm fine with running higher octane like 91/93 for the tune of course. GH sounds good to me so far because I'm not exactly looking to take it to the strip but just give it a little more "oomph" over the stock configuration. Thanks for all the info ;)
 

AlexS925

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With gearhead, I went from 318hp/320ft-lb to 339hp/379ft-lb and 339hp/415ft-lb. High torque i think the ecu didn't control it fast enough. Shifting is firmer than stock but not a severe shock, still have stock engine/trans mounts. Mine is a daily driver running 30k miles a year. Auto octane is very nice when gas prices go up. Still runs a lot better and funner than stock.
Awesome that's pretty much what I'm looking for. Thanks for the help :)
 

ridered74

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Even with tons of mods with a gearhead tune you don't sacrifice any daily driving ability. It drives like a normal car until you put the go pedal to the floor.
 

6500rpm

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I've been running the Gh AO for a few weeks now with 1 temp range lower plugs gapped at .028" on my daily and have been really happy. My list of mods is fairly conservative below, the tune has been by far the largest gain in grin factor. Not sure what's in the package, I had already changed to a 160deg Tstat and had a 3bar on hand.
 

Kevin81

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I bought the power pack tune from gear head. First, their customer service is top notch. Second, I did catless down pipes from ppe. I feel the power increase, but butt dyno says I didn't pick up more than 30-40hp. That said, when I put it into sport mode, it actually acts like a sports car, now. Shifting is crisp and aggressive, no more lag between hitting the pedal, and actually getting up and going.

I'd do it again, with the same tuner, if I had it to do over.
 

Joshw0000

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A lower tstat dosnt lower the temp much. I maybe noticed 5-10 degree differences on hot days. Royal purple ice dropped Temps lower than the lower tstat could on the stock tstat. Plugs would need regapped and buy a 3 bar map sensor to go along with a 93 octane tune.

What are your normal temps? I'm running 170 degree plugs and I've only ever noticed temps peak 200 degrees on blistering hot days (like 202-203). Usually my car stays around 195. That's a pretty noticeable drop from the ~220 degrees before.

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yaycandy

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Usually around 180 degrees with whatever lms temp thermostat they sold me. Around 185-190 with the one that came with the engine. I dont track it so maybe I dont get it hot enough. Also I have a pp oil cooler
 

Joshw0000

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Usually around 180 degrees with whatever lms temp thermostat they sold me. Around 185-190 with the one that came with the engine. I dont track it so maybe I dont get it hot enough. Also I have a pp oil cooler
Did you buy your car new? Sounds like someone may have already installed a lower temp T-stat. Normal is going to run around 220ish.

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yaycandy

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Did you buy your car new? Sounds like someone may have already installed a lower temp T-stat. Normal is going to run around 220ish.

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I've never seen over 200 degrees on my sct x4 with the stock thermostat but then again I can't trust any gauges.
 
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SM105K

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Did you buy your car new? Sounds like someone may have already installed a lower temp T-stat. Normal is going to run around 220ish.

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220 sustained?
 

Joshw0000

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220 sustained?
Normal starts to open around 180-190 and is fully open around 220, which is around the peak temperature. Cooler T-stat just opens at a lower temp so in theory the ~30-40 degree swing should follow the lower temps.

Am I wrong?

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SM105K

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Normal starts to open around 180-190 and is fully open around 220, which is around the peak temperature. Cooler T-stat just opens at a lower temp so in theory the ~30-40 degree swing should follow the lower temps.

Am I wrong?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

The majority of the time my temps stay at 198 with a 190 stock T-Stat, during day to day driving. I have only ever seen 220 while in 112+ temps while going up hills. On my last trip in 115 degree heat at 88 mph my temps stayed at 203 for the majority of the trip, It did climb to 220 while driving up a 10 mile grade near Coachella, CA and I did not reduce speed. It recovered very quickly, back down to down 203.
 

Joshw0000

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The majority of the time my temps stay at 198 with a 190 stock T-Stat, during day to day driving. I have only ever seen 220 while in 112+ temps while going up hills. On my last trip in 115 degree heat at 88 mph my temps stayed at 203 for the majority of the trip, It did climb to 220 while driving up a 10 mile grade near Coachella, CA and I did not reduce speed. It recovered very quickly, back down to down 203.
Hmmm... You have colder plugs, a tune, and other mods so I'm wondering if your car is just doing a better job of keeping the car cool. Mine swings between 170 and 200. It'll cool to 170ish and then run back up around 195-198 before falling back down to 170ish again. And the cycle repeats.

Seems like more work on the T-stat and radiator if it's constantly swinging only 10 degrees. But maybe that's better for the car? I honestly don't know.

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