Gen I & II Work Arounds for Unavailable Parts

[sperold]

We are fast approaching a time where we will not be able to replace most parts. And we are already at a time where people with insider information have disappeared.

Before it is all gone, this is a request for people with know-how to document their knowledge.

For example, does anyone have a work around when a blower control module fails?

Has anyone accomplished a manual work around when the electrical component of the Blend door Actuator fails?

Has anyone been able to revive the large relays in the CCRM with a work around using other relays?

And the list goes on and on.

Although depleted from its prime, there is still a lot of know how out there that is not universally known. This section has a wealth of information already, but we are at the point where we have to become inventors to keep things operating.

So if anyone knows some little trick that has helped them out in the past, this is the place to talk about it.

 

[blk\blk90]

Maybe a list of ANYTHING interchangeable with other cars too. If the Russian guy found main bearings, who knows what else can work. I'm pretty bummed getting back into the game and finding out we're now an endangered species.

 

[sperold]

I will start off with a dorky fix I just did for the soft button dash mounted climate unit.

Two years ago when the temp hit minus 30 F, my soft buttons fractured and came off in a couple of locations. And it looked really bad at night, way worse than you can imagine, with the white light peaking through. It looked broken, which of course it was.

After thinking that is the way it will always be, I got some clear finger nail polish and the red wrapping off some "Baby Bell" soft cheese. Not ideal as it was red, but I could not think of any product with a green cellophane wrapper.

Put the polish on what was left of the soft buttons and on the back of the wrapper and put them together like a contact cement application.

Now my outside temp and floor & defrost buttons are red instead of green, but are surprisingly acceptable.

Anyone doing this seriously (my attempt was experimental) could get the proper coloured cellophane and even work in a pictogram or some really small print and get some really good results.

Of course the standard fix is to retrofit the hard button unit from a 94 or 95 SHO, but even this is getting hard to find at a good price.

 

[Greg Corcoran]

We are fast approaching a time where we will not be able to replace most parts. And we are already at a time where people with insider information have disappeared.

Before it is all gone, this is a request for people with know-how to document their knowledge.

For example, does anyone have a work around when a blower control module fails?

Has anyone accomplished a manual work around when the electrical component of the Blend door Actuator fails?

Has anyone been able to revive the large relays in the CCRM with a work around using other relays?

And the list goes on and on.

Although depleted from its prime, there is still a lot of know how out there that is not universally known. This section has a wealth of information already, but we are at the point where we have to become inventors to keep things operating.

So if anyone knows some little trick that has helped them out in the past, this is the place to talk about it.

Here's one: I found a small cache of Bosch 40A relays that appear to be identical to the CCRM main relays in my D code CCRM. p/n 0 332 014 162. 4 pin for soldering into the circuit board. They were less than $10 each several years ago. I have 3 left if you can't find these locally.

 

[Greg Corcoran]

Here's one: I found a small cache of Bosch 40A relays that appear to be identical to the CCRM main relays in my D code CCRM. p/n 0 332 014 162. 4 pin for soldering into the circuit board. They were less than $10 each several years ago. I have 3 left if you can't find these locally.

what I need are the part(s) to revive the faceplate of my JBL radio. none of the buttons on the right side nor the '6' radio preset work.

 

[Greg Corcoran]

Here's one: I found a small cache of Bosch 40A relays that appear to be identical to the CCRM main relays in my D code CCRM. p/n 0 332 014 162. 4 pin for soldering into the circuit board. They were less than $10 each several years ago. I have 3 left if you can't find these locally.

trying to post a picture..

 

[Greg Corcoran]

trying to post a picture..

still trying...

 

[SHOdded]

Is this the part?
https://www.electronicsurplus.com/bosch-332014162-relay-power-spst-no-40a-12vdc

Relay, power. Input: DC. Contacts: SPST NO. Contact Ratings: 40Amp. Coil Voltage: 12VDC. Coil Resistance: 1780 Ohm. Connections: PC contacts. Mech Mtg: PCB. Size: 1.09" square x 1" high. Weight: 1.2 ounce. Note: Ford E6DF14A640CA.

 

[Greg Corcoran]

Yes! and a better price than I got, assuming they don't nail you on handling/shipping

 

[sperold]

They use the USPS $9.00 box to ship when I ordered 6 of them, so I thought that was pretty reasonable.

I may never use these things, but I feel a lot better having them.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[thegreatbriguy]

Are these the same as the ones in M code, or any other CCRM, or is it D code specific only?

 

[firebat45]

Are these the same as the ones in M code, or any other CCRM, or is it D code specific only?

Functionally, identical.

Different CCRMs have different relays, even if you stay with the same code. Depends when the CCRM was made (and maybe at what factory). It's just a relay though, and can be replaced with any other 40 Amp 12V relay. It's nice to get ones that will solder right in, but you could also solder a relay pigtail to the board and use a standard automotive relay.

 

[NoSlo]

Reman CCRM RCM4 is available by Blue Streak Electronics ("body control module" on RockAuto). It is for the -AA CCRM, which should be the "D" code for 1992-1995 MTX.

Like many things on Rockauto, it is erroneously listed for ATX; my 93 takes a "J" module, and I have a backup for swapping in.

 

[NoSlo]

I found that a 1993 Sable has the same "J" CCRM as the ATX SHO, and would expect this to be the same on 94 and 95.