Ford ACP / Replacement EATC

[gamefanatic]

Just throwing this out there to see what input you all have. I have been fighting the dreaded tape deck parasitic drain on one of my SHO's. I have totally removed the drive from the ICP (the football radio), but it still wants to heat up the huge heat sync by adding an additional 0.5 amp draw when everything is off. This naturally causes random issues of a drained battery.

My temporary fix is going to be to wire the power to the radio to only be on during run. This is necessary as many of you know, the EATC is managed by the ICP. With no power you get defrost/foot and heat, not to mention the A/C cycling when the car is turned on. This is unacceptable, thus the reason for the temporary fix.

Having said that, at least with this SHO, aptly named "SHO Foo", I want to keep things stock looking and operational where possible. With very few of these radios around in working order, I happened to start researching some replacement ideas. So far this is what I have come up with:

1) Replace the who system with some aftermarket system and controls.

2) Create an aftermarket design that works with the stock system using the stock ICP and controls the system with the stock ACP commands.

#1 Is doable, but likely looses the stock ICP. And requires a lot of rewiring all connected systems. Nothing appears to exist to make this venture simple plug-n-play. Though it cound be done with my flavor of Arduino or even Rasberry PI.

#2 Seems the best course of action. Allows for stock controls to be used with my flavor of tinker board, likely Arduino, interfacing with the original system and modernizing it.

Challenge with #2 is getting the Ford ACP commands. I found a link on Instuctables where someone interfaced with the ACP to act as the CD changer. There is a glimmer of hope with that concept, as the basic command structure is made available in Arduino code.
The part that is missing is now is just finding the commands needed to communicate with the RCC. Since the ACP is just a serial communications, no encryption, it would not be trivial to rig up a connection to a port on a computer and attempt to detect the communications when pressing the various buttons.

If I can get this off the ground I expect to integrate blutooth communications from my portable device for sound.

I'll upload the links I have to the Ford ACP commands and Arduino projects for anyone interested in this venture.

 

[gamefanatic]

Here is one of three Arduino Projects that utilize the CD Changer connection and ACP:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Ford-Bluetooth-Interface-Control-phone-with-stock-/

https://www.instructables.com/id/Ford-CD-Emulator-Arduino-Mega/

http://ansonliu.com/2017/09/ford-acp-cd-changer-emulator-aux-audio/


Some work documented by Heavymetal87 with the same concept, but went towards a manual control interface. Unfortunately the code used in this project is not available, and he hasn't been on the board since 2010.
https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/11...c-thermal-controls.html#/topics/148009?page=1

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

I must say that i make some test in this area this summer too. Like you, i want to keep all the things (visually) stock. But I have no power to deal with and therefore my project was oriented differently.

With a friend we discuss about adding a bluetooth receiver instead of a simple aux line (which is mentionned on V8SHO site). The bluetooth can be alimented in electricity by the tape motor which is useless since the signal wire is re-routed to the bluetooth. Now, these receivers are so small that they can be incorporated into the ICP (in the tape deck probably).

I also made tests to use this kind receiver (around 20$) with other bluetooth gadgets. My choice was one for receiving phone calls when driving (placed on driver sunvisor, around 50$). If I play my mp3 music via bluetooth and I receive a call, the phone will pause the music and opens the phone call receiver. I think the bluetooth priorities management is made by the phone itself and I was very cusious if mine was able to do something like because it's dating back from 2013 (LG G4).

Pro and cons of this (comparing to your solution) :
+ conserving the ICP (which is a big part the oval style in the interior)
+ almost no modifs in the wiring
+ no dash modifs (this square box will be a PITA to install on the dash, no ?) Many years ago, I bought for my SLO a kit to adapt a conventionnal radio int o his dash, it can be a start for a retrofit maybe. Future shop sold them like 150$ at that time.
+ more economical ?

- a lot less options/functions than yours, i must admit it seems to be cool
- tape is lost (I see one in your settup)
- you have to recharge the phone receiver after 36 hours of service (open) with a USB wire
- you cannot make phone call with this settup (at least not now)
- no interesting fondamental R&D like yours

P.S. Did you though that your antenna can be the source of your drain ? Not many thing stills alimented powered when car is turned off, but antenna stills powered some time after shutting off the car. Maybe something is grounded there...(?)

Keep us informed, it's interesting,

 

[gamefanatic]

I have my antenna's motor disabled as the platic extender broke on them. I hadn't looked recently, but the last time I looked the replacement cord was not in stock.

It'll be a while before I can circle back on this idea. I was using a bluetooth cassette before the deck broke. Just had to eject it for a bit to charge after 8 hours of continuous play. Right now I am using one of those FM modulators with bluetooth.
I have a bluetooth development board that I bought a bit ago with the idea of replacing the cassette deck.

 

[Rick Vavra]

Just throwing this out there to see what input you all have. I have been fighting the dreaded tape deck parasitic drain on one of my SHO's. I have totally removed the drive from the ICP (the football radio), but it still wants to heat up the huge heat sync by adding an additional 0.5 amp draw when everything is off. This naturally causes random issues of a drained battery.

My temporary fix is going to be to wire the power to the radio to only be on during run. This is necessary as many of you know, the EATC is managed by the ICP. With no power you get defrost/foot and heat, not to mention the A/C cycling when the car is turned on. This is unacceptable, thus the reason for the temporary fix.

Having said that, at least with this SHO, aptly named "SHO Foo", I want to keep things stock looking and operational where possible. With very few of these radios around in working order, I happened to start researching some replacement ideas. So far this is what I have come up with:

1) Replace the who system with some aftermarket system and controls.

2) Create an aftermarket design that works with the stock system using the stock ICP and controls the system with the stock ACP commands.

#1 Is doable, but likely looses the stock ICP. And requires a lot of rewiring all connected systems. Nothing appears to exist to make this venture simple plug-n-play. Though it cound be done with my flavor of Arduino or even Rasberry PI.

#2 Seems the best course of action. Allows for stock controls to be used with my flavor of tinker board, likely Arduino, interfacing with the original system and modernizing it.

Challenge with #2 is getting the Ford ACP commands. I found a link on Instuctables where someone interfaced with the ACP to act as the CD changer. There is a glimmer of hope with that concept, as the basic command structure is made available in Arduino code.
The part that is missing is now is just finding the commands needed to communicate with the RCC. Since the ACP is just a serial communications, no encryption, it would not be trivial to rig up a connection to a port on a computer and attempt to detect the communications when pressing the various buttons.

If I can get this off the ground I expect to integrate blutooth communications from my portable device for sound.

I'll upload the links I have to the Ford ACP commands and Arduino projects for anyone interested in this venture.

I'm having the same excessive parasitic drain issue on my 1999 SHO and also thought about disabling the direct battery feed to the ICP. Can you describe how to plan to make that mod? I've searched for a wiring diagram for the 1999 SHO radio but have not been able to locate one.

Thanks.

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

If no one had it already on photo, I have the Ford blue book of wiring diagrams for SHO.

You can also put a switch on the wire going to the fuse (on the interior fuse box).

 

[gamefanatic]

I used a Bosch relay attached to the "run" power coming to the radio to switch the "constant" power on. Keep in mind that the clock will always reset to 1200, but your presets will remain. I can provide more detail if you need. I used AllDataDiy and an Ohm Meter to find the right wires.

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

It's yours or someone had the same problem as you ? (The car is in Florida.)

http://usedcarsbox.com/ford-search/404303-1996-ford-taurus-sho-runs-well-new-tires-ac.html

 

[98SF19]

You're probably referring to me - I did have the parasitic draw, but snagged a reman'd ICP. Part of the decision was to eliminate a possible issue with my AC not working. The AC still didn't work after reman'd unit and I began tracking down issues with RCC, getting help from shorod along the way, but took a break midstream due to rising outside temps and haven't (YET) gotten back to it. I believe the voltage/current check between ICP and RCC were legit, and I had continuity from RCC to cycling switch, but hadn't yet checked the VOLTAGE at cycling switch.

It's embarrassing to say, and breaks my heart a bit, but I've been without any ICP for months now, and getting used to seeing a big hole in my dash . . .

Kids approaching teen years and a bun in the oven, so spare time will be decreasing from here on.