First Dyno Run

[jobes]

Well here is my first run with the Stage 3 tune and CAI (Airaid). Great or not what do you think? Kinda new to this and need some help. I understand it's running very rich.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-20JMWN55eY

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[Billm0066]

You want the car to run rich as it was designed from the factory.

 

[zblackbeast]

WOW that drivetrain eats a lot of power.. That looks insanely rich to me.

 

[Hi Tek]

Wish I could see that dyno chart! Not coming up for me.

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

How does this compare with others???

Have heard AWD system creates a 25-28% loss... Seems high, but may be true.

Plan on putting Brick on Torrie's dyno after Christmas.

 

[jedhead]

Mustang Dyno will usually show a lower reading than a dynojet or dynapak.

Bob

 

[SHO U UP]

How does this compare with others???

Have heard AWD system creates a 25-28% loss... Seems high, but may be true.Plan on putting Brick on Torrie's dyno after Christmas.

Yup, that's about right on target. I was told to expect 27% loss for an AWD sytem, so the numbers look to be accurate.

 

[yamahaSHO]

An AWD auto will lose quite a bit of power by the time it gets to the pavement. Mustang dynos generally read lower numbers, but I've seen them read higher than a dynojet too. I wouldn't be concerned with the actual numbers as there's a bigger chance they'll be incorrect than the other way around. They're good for tuning aids and progress checks (same dyno is advised).

For reference, stock STis on Mustang dynos usually sit between 220 and 250whp. That's a big variance for the same car on different dyno.

You want the car to run rich as it was designed from the factory.

Wrong answer.

 

[zblackbeast]

/\ I would assume a little rich but not 10.2:1.. thats. that borderline flooding the engine. "idea" is 14.7:1 IIRC so the closer you are without going over that number you should see better results.. no?

 

[yamahaSHO]

With Direct Injection you can generally run it closer to stoich and still be safe. The fuel doesn't sit in the combustion chamber as long as Port Injection. I generally aim my SHO around 13:1, but my STi agrees with 11:1 for safe power.

The only time you realistically should be aiming for 14.7:1 is during cruise/idle. You can play with fuel and timing to aid in turbo spool.

 

[jedhead]

The tune I have on my STS-V is a little rich to help prevent detonation thus preventing the engine from pulling timing. I also wanted a little more safety margin since gas is not always consistent in quality. The original tune was for 93 Octane and the timing was much more aggressive and leaner. For these same reasons, this tune may be rich.

Bob

 

[yamahaSHO]

With DI, you shouldn't have to run it that rich while maintaining safety. Give a few years, tuners will figure it out.

 

[Billm0066]

Wrong answer.

Of the 4 turbo cars I have owned every single one ran very rich from the factory. The three Chryslers I had all ran hot egts of 1,700+ degrees so the extra fuel is needed. Nobody has seemed to datalog the egts on this car I am betting it's up there in temp too. Maybe not quite as hot, but if the factory has it calibrated to run so rich, then why is it such a good idea to lean it out? I'm looking at it as a reliability stand point and not make a bunch of power for 5,000 miles and having your engine blow up. Please enlighten me.

 

[jedhead]

If I tune a customers car, I would tune it rich. I would not risk a blown engine then stuck with the cost of replacing the customer's engine because the warranty won't cover it. My engine run rich stock at WOT too. Margin of safety for GM. Main reason I tuned the V is to get rid of all the torque nannies in 1st through 3rd gear, shut the blower bypass right away, quicker and firmer shifts. Although my peak power numbers on the dyno did not increase much, the car launches much harder, lights up the tires shifting into 2nd, the rear end twitches going into 3rd at 100mph. I give the car gas and responds immediately. Snaps off 2 and 3 gear downshifts with authority. The car feels much stronger and drives very differently. I presume that the tunes for the Gen4 SHO does the same for them.

Bob

 

[yamahaSHO]

Of the 4 turbo cars I have owned every single one ran very rich from the factory. The three Chryslers I had all ran hot egts of 1,700+ degrees so the extra fuel is needed. Nobody has seemed to datalog the egts on this car I am betting it's up there in temp too. Maybe not quite as hot, but if the factory has it calibrated to run so rich, then why is it such a good idea to lean it out? I'm looking at it as a reliability stand point and not make a bunch of power for 5,000 miles and having your engine blow up. Please enlighten me.

A manufacturer can "de-tune" cars for many reasons. It could be safety in fear of a warranty claim, meet a standard, account for fluctuation, variation to a mass-produced vehicle, or .... Just because the factory does something, does not mean it's perfect or even "right". That is no reason to say, "because the factory does, it must stay that way". We modify our cars, so we are already deviating from what the factory does.

Tuning a car specific to it's modifications will be key to reliability, power and gas mileage, period. There is a point when too much fuel will be hazardous. It'll cut the engine in the powerband and can even crack a piston. There is more to EGT's than AFR (timing, boost, ACT, etc). You're free to do what you want, but don't rely on the manufacturer to always be correct. Their goal is for you to buy another car after your car breaks out of warranty.

 

[Fishrising]

Subscribed, good read...

 

[jobes]

So with all this being said what would be my real engine HP? Like I said I'm new to this and my figure is coming up less then it's stock rated figure.

 

[Billm0066]

A manufacturer can "de-tune" cars for many reasons. It could be safety in fear of a warranty claim, meet a standard, account for fluctuation, variation to a mass-produced vehicle, or .... Just because the factory does something, does not mean it's perfect or even "right". That is no reason to say, "because the factory does, it must stay that way". We modify our cars, so we are already deviating from what the factory does.

Tuning a car specific to it's modifications will be key to reliability, power and gas mileage, period. There is a point when too much fuel will be hazardous. It'll cut the engine in the powerband and can even crack a piston. There is more to EGT's than AFR (timing, boost, ACT, etc). You're free to do what you want, but don't rely on the manufacturer to always be correct. Their goal is for you to buy another car after your car breaks out of warranty.

The manufacturers are also the ones with the million dollar equipment to test the engines they calibrate while the tuners have nothing of that sort. The manufacturer knows whats best for this engine because they are the ones who designed, calibrated, and built it. They know how much this engine could be pushed. We all know they aren't pushing the ecoboost engine to the limits from the factory, but they calibrated it to run so rich for a reason and it will not be hazardous with the stock calibration. For all we know Ford could release an oem tune that is off road use only to give us a little more power like the Mopar guys did. We can only hope.

 

[Markus]

Silly question about dynos and the SHO. It has been suggested to me that part of the AWD system of the SHO can be disabled so that the car can be tested on a 2wd dyno. Is there any truth to this assertion?