Finished the clutch swap!

[EmeraldGreen91+]

I started at 9 this morning, had the transaxle out by 12:30 and had to wait for my rear main and oil pan seals and flywheel to be cut til 3:15 and finished up around 7. Turns out one of the straps broke (one of the four in the pack) and the other three bent. I will never install a clutch that says made in china on it ever again. The clutch is like butter now. Took my sweet ass time and torqued everything to factory specs. I hope this one lasts this time around and no longer leaks oil when I rev it up/drive it past 5000 rpm. There is a small clicking noise thats there when the clutch is released in neutral and goes away after the pedal is half way down. Not too sure what that is but I really hope its nothing important. Also, I am never hanging an engine with a 4x4 ever again. It worked but made me feel unsafe. Also, when putting the subframe back in, the engine moved and cracked my DIS. Anyone know how much these are? At first it didn't start and I almost shit a brick but just had to push the connector in and use a zip tie to hold it in. I want to replace this thing asap. Next up, 60K service.

 

[haydenkayne]

good job! yah 4x4 would make me feel as safe as using cinder blocks for jack stands

 

[38SHO]

4x4 is actually pretty good

if you feel unsafe about it, use two........

houses are built with less

that clicking noise could be your TOB, although it usally makes a different type of noise... if its happening when you press on the clutch visualize in your mind when you do that your ramming the TOB onto the pressure plate fingers.......

good job on finishing the clutch so quickly........ did you use a new TOB?

 

[EmeraldGreen91+]

Yea I figured its maybe the TOB, and yes I did use the new TOB. That would suck balls if I had to take the whole thing out again, but at this point, I could do it with my eyes shut. If you have a lift and the engine hanger its really not that hard of a job. I restore cars for a living so any car will have its quirks and pain in the ***** so I don't even bitch anymore. lol The only thing with my car, the front subframe nut thats in the frame rail came detached from the car so I have to use a pry bar to hold it in place when tightening and loosening it. An if there is a next time, I'm just gonna shell out the money and buy my own engine hanger, that way I have it for other projects if need be.

 

[38SHO]

the mtx really isn't that hard to pull out for a car with a subframe........

the only thing I find a pita is the clutch cable..... and the right side axle support bolts....

its pretty straight forward if you do it right, how exactly did you drop the subframe/what all did u take off and where at?

 

[BlackonBlack89]

If you have a ceraminc TOB (from SHOnut) they tend to be a little louder than the stock TOB. The noise is annoying but is normal. IDK if the stockers tend to make noise or not. MY 91 makes a tiny bit of noise and thats stock

 

[EmeraldGreen91+]

I took the exhaust, shifter and starter out. Then disconnected the motor mounts, trans axle mount bolts and rack bolts from the subframe, and disconnected the ball joints and tie rod ends from the struts and then dropped the subframe. So that ticking noise seems to be my input shaft. I'm hoping that its making noise from being a little low on fluid (it was wet on the bottom so it seems to be leaking) and a little came out of the drivers side axle opening when I was removing and installing it so I'm gonna throw it up on the lift tomorrow and top it off and hope that it will help the noise go away. I would really have to get the trans rebuilt now. This SHO's getting babied for now on.