Engine/trans dropped, results and repairs

Randyo08

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Long story short I bought a 2010 sho with a crank no start condition. Found out after lots of testing of components that it had an average of 30psi of compression across the board. Bought a borescope and found marks on the pistons where the intake valves hit. I finally got the motor/trans dropped onto a table the other day. Yesterday I got to tear it apart. Timing chain was newer and didn’t seem to have any wear. What I did find is that the main chain tensioner failed, it hops around erratically while being turned over. When I pulled the tensioner I found that the oil galley was absolutely disgusting with sludge build up. The rest of the motor wasn’t too bad except for the oil pan. I found a good set of used heads I will be installing this upcoming week. I would like to hear any suggestions for things to replace while I got the motor out. The PTU doesn’t have a drain on my model so I’m going to have to tilt it to drain it fully. Transmission fluid was quite dirty too so I was considering pulling the transmission off of it and draining the converter and refilling it with fresh fluid. Are the crank sensors a common failure? Tempted to replace it just simply because how much of a pita it would be if it failed in the future. Overall dropping the engine/transmission was super easy. I found a heavy duty table for cheap on marketplace. I’ll update with more pictures and progress this week. The picture with the valves you can see the light shining around the valve where it’s bent. Very very light bend.
 

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luigisho

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Are the pistons, rings and cylinder wall damaged? You still need a good functioning and sealing piston and a wall that won't mess it up.

As far as PITA yeah, replace anything you can that is prone to fail and is now exposed. You need to make sure the water pump is new (or newer).
 

Randyo08

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Are the pistons, rings and cylinder wall damaged? You still need a good functioning and sealing piston and a wall that won't mess it up.

As far as PITA yeah, replace anything you can that is prone to fail and is now exposed. You need to make sure the water pump is new (or newer).
Rings/pistons look great, cylinder walls still showing nice hash marks. Ford put a decent effort into piston reliefs but they weren’t big enough for the intake valves lol thankfully it was a very light hit. Back in the DSM days I had some motors that looked like you took an air hammer to the pistons and the motors ran great after a head/timing job lol I’ll be in the shop tomorrow working on it. I already have the water pump/chain kit just waiting on the gaskets and heads
 

Randyo08

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My fault on the extreme delay. I got super sick last week and didn’t do anything for 4 days but last weekend I cranked out the rest of the car. She runs incredible! I’m waiting on the front turbo feed line quick connect that has the seal because mine leaked at WOT on the test drive. I also bought a second one that has blown turbos I had some good pointers from my buddy who is a long time ford mechanic. He warned me that the injectors would almost 100% leak if he didn’t replace the Teflon seals they have. Expensive little things. He also cleaned the injectors so well they were like new. Overall this was a fun project and not as bad as it initially seemed.
 

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SeanDev

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Are the pistons, rings and cylinder wall damaged? You still need a good functioning and sealing piston and a wall that won't mess it up.

As far as PITA yeah, replace anything you can that is prone to fail and is now exposed. You need to make sure the water pump is new (or newer).
I agree 100%, if engine is out ide go with new sensors, water, oil, timing, make it a one and done.
 

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