Engine hesitation?

[sho 'nuff]

Lately on my sprints up the rev limiter at WOT there seems to be some hesitation from the engine. I know this is not the usual ATX hesitation, I've had that one a few times Could this be fuel related? Any ideas guys?

 

[sdpatt]

Need more details.

Scott

 

[stevetatro]

Did you pull any codes? Always a good idea.

If there are no codes that point to these symptoms, it seems hesitation/stumbling problems are frequently due to spark. Check for oil/water in your plug wells, possibly replace plugs (if old and/or fouled) and wires (if old).

Good luck! Give us some more info. and you'll get much better responses.

 

[SHOTIME2669]

I have the same problem with my 94 ATX. Whats the deal with it. It sometimes stalls on start up or the RPM will jump from 900 to about 1200 and then stall, or it will continue to jump until I start to move and then its fine. What could this be? I had Courntey Truck Service in Eden Prarie, MN who specializes in SHO work on the side do a 60K tune-up about a year ago so its been tuned. Could this be an EGR valve problem? I've heard people talk about something getting clogged causing a EGR code to flash, which in my case it has. I believe it was code 332? But I could be wrong I pulled the codes a long time ago and have since forgoten what they were. But seeing this post reminded me about it and I thought I would ask to see if anyone knew what was up with it.

-Mike

<small>[ April 17, 2002, 06:30 PM: Message edited by: SHOTIME2669 ]</small>

 

[sho 'nuff]

I just had the plugs, wires, alternator and many other numerous parts replaced by ford last October when I began getting a check engine light. I'll need to read up on pulling codes, before I try to do that. The only other problem I am having is my car never seems to start up the on the first try, but it will always start right the second try. Weather seems to have no baring(sp?) on this situation. First try, just turns over but won't start, second try starts right up like nothing is wrong. squint I am not the most mechanically inclined person, so unless something is very obviously wrong I am not that great on picking up on it.

 

[sdpatt]

The starting problem sounds like low fuel pressure on the first turn of the key. Try turning the key to ON for a couple seconds while the pump runs then to START. If this allows the engine to start on the first try, the fuel pump is allowing the pressure to bleed off after shutdown and needs to be replaced.

 

[sho 'nuff]

My dad gave me that suggestion and it still seems to not start on the first try. I am not sure when the last time the fuel filter was replaced on the car, should I try to change this and see what effects it might have? I know I read that you need to releave the fuel line pressure and let what little bit there is in the line to drip off. What I did not understand is where is this line pressure release valve or whatever it is?

If there is water/oil in the plug wells is it going to be in the front or rear set more than likely?

ME SHO STUPID

 

[jcostantino]

It could be the crank sensor or cam sensor. My car was starting to hesitate while accelerating and unfortunatly I don't know exactally was replaced that fixed it but the dealership replaced under warranty:

fuel pump
cam sensor
dis module

and I replaced the crank sensor myself.

I don't know if your problem is the same as mine but when I was starting to get on it, the engine would start to sputter and the engine sound would drop/rise to the tach needle's movement.

Jeff

 

[luigisho]

Any plug can leak so check them all. Filter is easier than the pump so try it first. You can relieve the pressure through the Schrader(sp?) valve. It's on the engine and looks like a valve you would find on a tire. It usually has a black cap on it. You need something like a pressure relief gauge that pushes the pin in the middle of the valve and uses tubing to route the fuel away from the motor. You can also pop the inertia switch in the trunk (red button maybe behind the driver side trunk interior panel?), remove the gas cap, and start the motor until it stalls due to fuel starvation. You'll still spill a little when taking off the filter. Get yourself a Chilton's or Haynes manual. They don't have much SHO specific stuff but are good for general Taurus repair.

 

[KYSHO]

Think I could be the air compressor? burn_out I know this seems kind of silly but in the past few days since I started running the air I have noticed I am a little slower off the line and acceleration seems a little slugish. Will the air running make a noticable difference in a SHO. In my Cougar at full throttle the air will kick off. This doesn't seem to happen on the SHO.

 

[sho 'nuff]

I have the chilton's manual...it really says nothing that would help me in any way about the fuel filter. shoot

If I pull the fuel cut off to change the filter..how do you turn it back on?

<small>[ April 18, 2002, 01:24 AM: Message edited by: sho 'nuff ]</small>

 

[Andrew Tilson]

The AC in my SHO cuts out at WOT I was told it is supposed to which makes sense to me

 

[93nighthawk]

sho' nuff sounds like either the fuel pump or the fuel filter. Safty first, use a mallot and bang on the drivers side of the trunk (inside), that will cause the emergency full stop button to activate (it pops out), Start the car and let it run till it dies. You are ready to replace the filter now. The filter is easy to replace jack the car up on the pasengers side, use a pair of pliers to remove the clips, pull the old one out (whatch out for the gas) put new one in, push the button back in, pump peddal a couple times, good to go.

shotime2669 definitely your EGR tube is cloged. Simple to check. Pull the air intake hose off the intake, push the butterfly open and peer with a flashlight inside. There are two holes on top, and two on the bottom. You will probably see a bunch of gunk in them. Solution: pull the intake off, take your time, buy a lot of B-12 chemtool and a few tooth brushes. I found a allen wrench is good if the gunk is really coked in the holes.

KYSHO When the a/c is on, you will loose some power because it is belt driven. I am betting that you are not use to the power draw sense it has not been on for a while and(Knock on wood)not the compressor

Hope this helps.

Eric

 

[luigisho]

Fuel filter and pump should be similar between the SHO and regular Taurus. The inertia switch is supposed to cut the fuel pressure when the car gets hit. So if you simulate with a little whack near the sensor the button will pop up. To reset when finished just push the button back down.

 

[sho 'nuff]

*update*

Got a new fuel filter installed, noticed instantly better throttle response and perfect WOT shifts bouncing off the rev limiter Still, however, have trouble getting it to start on the first turn. I have not as of yet pulled the codes, but I plan to do that tomorrow..or is it today now? heh..I got the instructions off SHOTIMES to use the CE light for codes, so I am gonna give it a shot...see if anything comes up, and get back to all of you experts.