Eec and 10amp fuse

Imnotsureyet

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Ok it's been about 4 months since this started and I'm tired of walking so I'm going to try this again dose anybody know if the eec is not working will this cause a fuse to blow in the power distribution box under the hood on the driver's side of the car ????
If not what else can cause this fuse to blow. Because when this fuse blows it stops the fule pump and everything else in the car. If I put a new fuse in I can't turn the key or it will blow the fuse. How can I check the dam thing or test it if I can't turn it on????? It's been something like 4 months and I'm tired of walking !!

Anyone have any info that mite help me out with this please let me know.

Thanks in advance.

Imnotsureyet
 

luigisho

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What fuse is it? You can use that to track the power distribution to see where to look. Any narrowing down can help people examine what that circuit looks like. Maybe the fuse cover has slot identification. Get some pics and see if someone can make use of it. There is an EVTM (electrical/vacuum troubleshooting manual) manual with all the electrical diagrams
 

Imnotsureyet

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Yes I have that book with all wringing vacuum and its still a bunch to track this thing as it goes to every thing in the car I mean. It goes to the warning chimes, radio, anti lock, brakes eec, fuel pump, ignition system I mean everything goes out when this little fuse goes out but I will take your advise and take some pic and post them that is good advise.
Thank you

Immotsureyet

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Imnotsureyet

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Here are the pictures that I think are relevant this is right on the firewall driver's side under the hood.
Also this is the only fuse that's blown and I had nothing else wrong when this happened other then the fule pump I just replaced but I'm now thinking that I just waested my time and money on that and now think this was the trouble the whole time.

Thanks again for your help

Imnotsureyet

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NoSlo

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The 10A fuse being pointed at, in the 1992 manual, the diagram says it is "ACCY FEED", but yet the table has these reversed, perhaps in error.

1992:
11-IGN COIL- Ignition System 13-19, 13-20
12-ACCY FEED- Anti-lock Brake Control Module and power relay 13-16


1993:
11-ACCY FEED- Anti-lock brake control module and power relay 13-16
12-IGN COIL- Ignition System 13-19, 13-20

In wiring diagrams, "accy feed" is grey/yellow wire at the fuse, and supplies the ABS control module (at the radiator support) and the anti-lock power relay 42-1. It will get power in the run position of the key.

"IGN COIL" is red/light green wire at the 10A fuse, powered by the run position ignition switch (and from 60A ignition switch big fuse)

If it is indeed the red/light green wire fuse that's blowing, killing the ignition, you'll need to find the shorted component. You'll need a multimeter, and one at a time, unplug each sensor and check that it doesn't short this 12V wire's pin to ground: coolant sensor, IRCM, CID (cam position), CPS (crank sensor), DIS module, coil pack, radio capacitor (the capacitor is on the coolant temperature sensor harness). If you unplug them all, remove the fuse, and the wire harness itself shorts to ground....well good luck with that.
 

luigisho

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I wonder. Is it possible this can get shorted from the ignition cylinder or from the ignition module? If so that might make tracking it easier or a place to start. Ignition module is an occasional failure part for sure.
 

Devin

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I wonder. Is it possible this can get shorted from the ignition cylinder or from the ignition module? If so that might make tracking it easier or a place to start. Ignition module is an occasional failure part for sure.
Seriously. I had mine literally fall apart.
 

NoSlo

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I wonder. Is it possible this can get shorted from the ignition cylinder or from the ignition module? If so that might make tracking it easier or a place to start. Ignition module is an occasional failure part for sure.
The ignition switch would blow the 60A fuse supplying it, not a device that comes after.

One tricky thing is the IRCM power feed, it might not be "shorted" until it turns on, as it could turn on a shorted-out fuel pump wire, etc.

Start by checking that neither of that 10a fuse's pin slots immediately show a short to ground. One pin goes to the ignition, the other goes to all the accessories. If it isn't shorted out, the IRCM or something it switches is suspect.

Also, consider what you were last working on before the fuse started blowing. Did you route a crank sensor wire so it would get caught etc?
 
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Imnotsureyet

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The 10A fuse being pointed at, in the 1992 manual, the diagram says it is "ACCY FEED", but yet the table has these reversed, perhaps in error.

1992:
11-IGN COIL- Ignition System 13-19, 13-20
12-ACCY FEED- Anti-lock Brake Control Module and power relay 13-16


1993:
11-ACCY FEED- Anti-lock brake control module and power relay 13-16
12-IGN COIL- Ignition System 13-19, 13-20

In wiring diagrams, "accy feed" is grey/yellow wire at the fuse, and supplies the ABS control module (at the radiator support) and the anti-lock power relay 42-1. It will get power in the run position of the key.

"IGN COIL" is red/light green wire at the 10A fuse, powered by the run position ignition switch (and from 60A ignition switch big fuse)

If it is indeed the red/light green wire fuse that's blowing, killing the ignition, you'll need to find the shorted component. You'll need a multimeter, and one at a time, unplug each sensor and check that it doesn't short this 12V wire's pin to ground: coolant sensor, IRCM, CID (cam position), CPS (crank sensor), DIS module, coil pack, radio capacitor (the capacitor is on the coolant temperature sensor harness). If you unplug them all, remove the fuse, and the wire harness itself shorts to ground....well good luck with that.
Thank you for your help I will try out your advice and let you know how it works out thanks again


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SHOrod

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I'm in the same boat as NoSlo. My factory service manual also disagrees on the labeling, but based on your description, that's got to be the Ign Coil fuse, not the Accy fuse. There are a lot of items that receive power from that 10 amp fuse. You may need to just start unplugging items individually until you find one that no longer causes the fuse to blow. You might be able to use a series test light rather than fuse and just look for a brightly glowing bulb unless you recently bought stock in a fuse manufacturer. You might start with devices commonly known to have issues such as the coolant switch mentioned above, then the IRCM/CCRM, etc.

Good luck! This one could take awhile to track down. Or it could be as simple as the coolant switch.

-Rod
 

Imnotsureyet

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Thank you all for your in put and trying to help me with this. I do appreciate all of the effort all of you have made. I'm sorry I have not had time to tryout any of your tips as I've been trying to keep my jobs in order to get by in this messed up economy that we having to deal with and or government trying to take all ore Rights and all ore money I just have had no time to try any thing but you can rest assured that I will as soon t can and let you know how things go. Once again I thank you all for your efforts!!!

Just need some time to work on my car as I don't want to start and stop start and stop again and again. I'll never get anything figured out that way.


So when will I get the time ? I'm not sure

Imnotsureyet


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