Dyno'd my car this weekend

Racer X

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193.89 max HP
192.47 max TQ

To be honest, I was expecting a bit more with the mods I have, however, my A/F is a bit curious, at hovering around 12 or so throughout the pull.

Mods are:

3.2L w/3.0L Intake Cams and 3.2L injectors, SHOBros Y-Pipe, new MAF, Dynomax Catback, K&N Panel with 5HP airbox sticker, 155lph fuel pump

Chart:
Dynochart

Thoughts?
 
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Jonny Cash

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Honestly Hamal, for everything to be stock, those #'s are average. Youd expect the TQ to go up a bit and it did. A few bolt ons, maybe some cams will give you more up top.

You drove in my car when it was NA couple years back? Same setup + cams, a Ted B. LPM, a 77 MAF, a 190fp, and some bolt ons gave me 202TQ and 211hp to the tire. Pretty average from what Ive seen.
 

VADERSHO

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Actually I would expect more with those mods. My 92 dynoed at 204HP and 187TQ with a stock 3.0 only mods were Ypipe, udp, catback. Im now running a 80mm maf with SHO shop canister CAI, LPM, BBB's and P&P. So now im hoping to get some higger numbers. I would think with a 3.2 swap and cams you should atleast be at my numbers, or higher.
 

SHOZ123

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Looks like some rpm multipliers coming into play over 6K. Way rich.
 

Ishodu

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Make sure you throttle is opening 100% first thing. It seems like its begging for air. You really need to get them secondaries opening earlier too.
 

AutoSHO

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It looks like you've got a significant restriction up top - The 2nd torque peak should be higher RPM wise and the curves should carry a lot further. I'd check the catback and your air filter if you haven't lately. The AFR curve doesn't look too unusual for a SHO.
 

1993MTXSHO

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yeah they look about right, they would probably be better but in the high 80's the numbers will be slightly lower then expected.
 

SeanMc

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Conditions, altitude, pluto and venus not aligned properly, warm weather, car was just driven 100 miles, etc can all affect the numbers.
 

NJSHO

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That is an odd dip in your torque curve. Most sho torque curves ive seen are fairly flat with two little torque peaks.
 

Racer X

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Conditions, altitude, pluto and venus not aligned properly, warm weather, car was just driven 100 miles, etc can all affect the numbers.
Well, I can't speak on Pluto and Venus, but it was hot, and I did drive 110 miles to get to the dyno, however, the car had 3 hours to cool off before the runs
 

Sho Amo

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timing? we saw what happened with bandito, and its not that hard to line up one tooth off.
 

SeanMc

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Well, I can't speak on Pluto and Venus, but it was hot, and I did drive 110 miles to get to the dyno, however, the car had 3 hours to cool off before the runs

:biggrin: Hmm, 3 hours is plenty of time to cool down. Not sure dude, all I know is that I did your numbers on 4.5 cylinders. One injector wasn't firing, and the other you could move the wire one way and it would fire, move it another, and it wouldn't fire. Your problem could be super simple. Hope you find it soon. Good luck Hamal.
 

SinisterSHO

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Not sure how to compare this but, my car made 190 with stage 1 cams, intake, exhaust and a little bit of tuning. I would think a 3.2 should have more than that.
 

somedude_001

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Make sure you throttle is opening 100% first thing. It seems like its begging for air. You really need to get them secondaries opening earlier too.

earlier seccondary opening ad ditch the stock maf and get one that you arn't maxing out.
 

SHOZ123

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Not sure how to compare this but, my car made 190 with stage 1 cams, intake, exhaust and a little bit of tuning. I would think a 3.2 should have more than that.


Comparing numbers from two diffrent cars on two diffrent dynos is a bit of pie in the sky IMHO. :corn:
 

Yamaha V6

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Hamal, I have Stage 1 cams and some custom porting, did 214 / 201 to the wheels, otherwise sounds like the same setup (Magnaflow Y, Dynomax, 3.2 Inj, replacement pump, stock replacement MAF, paper panel filter, etc.).

You are running richer than I am, FWIW. My graph's on an earlier thread last replied ~7/07.

I think you've got some fine-tuning to deal with, and remember every SHO is slightly different. Eric S's old 3.2L was working hard to do 200hp, when Mark N's was doing 220 with the adjustable sprockets, etc. (before ethanol, remember, which drops power about 3% vs the old MTBE gas I personally think).

Anyway, good luck getting more from her. :thumbup:
 

Racer X

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Just to add more to this...

Towards the end of fall and into winter, my car has always (before and after the 3.2L)had this weird issue where if I would drive it for a while, park, and then restart it, it would stumble and sputter for a few, and gradually smooth out. I always suspected it was running rich during this event, and last night I had the opportunity to test out this theory.

After being parked for about 20 minutes or so, I restarted it to find it doing the stumble about to fall on its face dance, and the exhaust was so rich I probably could have ignited it. Then I pulled a vacuum line, and the idle jumped up to about 1900 or 2000 (hard to tell when you're under the hood), and gradually fell back to normal. While the line was pulled, the idle was smooth as silk, and the exhaust lost it's overly rich smell, which proves that it is running rich during this event.

My question is, WTF is causing this? And could is possibly be tied to the AF seen above? As fas as new sensors are concerned:

- I'm using the 3.2L injectors (whereas the 3.0L injectors were in place when this condition first presented itself).
- New ECT sensor
- New factory MAF
- New BARO sensor
- New O2 sensors (x2)
- New CID sensor
- New CKP sensor
- New and properly tensioned timing belt
- New(er) TPS (fixed throttle response, but not this)

Any ideas?
 

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