Do lowering springs need additional mods/parts?

[BlindAssassin111]

I want to start this off with the fact I have never done lowering springs on a car, only wished from afar. Plus trying to find a single source with all the information regarding what is needed hasn't been fruitful but I haven't been on the forum long enough to know if there is good go to that I just missed, so forgive me if I did.

Looking at possibly getting the H&R lowering springs but wanted to know what to get along with the springs to make the install more worth the time (have to take to a shop as I can't do the install at my house). Would I need sway bar end links, top hats/similar parts, or anything special that the SHO's require?

And while I am at it, my plans are to have 20x9's all around (et30-35 range) and possibly 20x10's in the rear (et40?). Do the springs help, hinder, do nothing compared to stock for tire/wheel specs?

Car is a 2013 sho with ~70k miles.

 

[kryptto]

you a PP or non PP, year?

 

[BlindAssassin111]

you a PP or non PP, year?

2013 PP

 

[76FoMoCo]

You will need rear camber bolts

 

[kryptto]

Look in my signature for parts and links.

Ok here was my experiences performing an H&R lowering, - I replaced my PP struts at the same time at 28K miles. I wanted it all new if I was gonna rip it all out.

I replaced my shocks - and in hindsight I would just of used Ford oem, nothing wrong with my Monroe's they are fine, just don't re-use the same parts - bushings etc. - they are universal. There is even more debate to use KYB - who knows better or worse - my Monroe severe duty are fine. The whole point of lowering the rear is to stop the roll into corners, this car has such a high stance - it doesn't roll over stock, it feels like it will. Lowering will definitely help.

Lastly, get the whiteline sway bar in my signature. IT is the last piece you need, it takes all the slap out of roll, the car has a MUCH firmer stance. Who KNOWS when whiteline will stop making it, so get it keep it even while considering the rest.

As for caster/camber bolts, I bought the SPC as mentioned recently here: https://shoforum.com/threads/how-is-front-camber-adjusted-on-a-2013-gen-4.146686/post-1603316

AFTER all my parts were installed - HR all 4 - new PP struts - new monroe shocks - new whiteline sway, I didnt need the caster and camber bolts.

Search my threads I talk through the parts I used.

I suspect you wont need the bolts - my reading around here is the non-PP peeps that need them after adding PP struts, I could be wrong and I assume will be hand slapped for saying that. It wasn't my experience, I didn't need longer bolts, and my car was all green after the alignment.

Want to buy my bolts $50 for all 4, throw in $5 for shipping. Rears are 1 per side and fronts come as a pair.

 

[BlindAssassin111]

Look in my signature for parts and links.

Ok here was my experiences performing an H&R lowering, - I replaced my PP struts at the same time at 28K miles. I wanted it all new if I was gonna rip it all out.

I replaced my shocks - and in hindsight I would just of used Ford oem, nothing wrong with my Monroe's they are fine, just don't re-use the same parts - bushings etc. - they are universal. There is even more debate to use KYB - who knows better or worse - my Monroe severe duty are fine. The whole point of lowering the rear is to stop the roll into corners, this car has such a high stance - it doesn't roll over stock, it feels like it will. Lowering will definitely help.

Lastly, get the whiteline sway bar in my signature. IT is the last piece you need, it takes all the slap out of roll, the car has a MUCH firmer stance. Who KNOWS when whiteline will stop making it, so get it keep it even while considering the rest.

As for caster/camber bolts, I bought the SPC as mentioned recently here: https://shoforum.com/threads/how-is-front-camber-adjusted-on-a-2013-gen-4.146686/post-1603316

AFTER all my parts were installed - HR all 4 - new PP struts - new monroe shocks - new whiteline sway, I didnt need the caster and camber bolts.

Search my threads I talk through the parts I used.

I suspect you wont need the bolts - my reading around here is the non-PP peeps that need them after adding PP struts, I could be wrong and I assume will be hand slapped for saying that. It wasn't my experience, I didn't need longer bolts, and my car was all green after the alignment.

Want to buy my bolts $50 for all 4, throw in $5 for shipping. Rears are 1 per side and fronts come as a pair.

Would you say it is worth the extra cost and time to replace the shocks/struts? I ask only because to replace it all seems to be roughly $1k shipped and unsure if that would be worth the investment on top of the springs+sway bar. I assume given the age of the car it wouldn't hurt but trying to find a reason not to spend more on this lol.

As for the bolts, do you think it would be worth getting them just to have installed in the off chance it is needed or just see if they are needed after install? You aren't the first person I have seen mention they didn't end up needing them and curious if I should just "risk it" and not get them initially.

 

[FREAK_SHO]

Would you say it is worth the extra cost and time to replace the shocks/struts? I ask only because to replace it all seems to be roughly $1k shipped and unsure if that would be worth the investment on top of the springs+sway bar. I assume given the age of the car it wouldn't hurt but trying to find a reason not to spend more on this lol.

As for the bolts, do you think it would be worth getting them just to have installed in the off chance it is needed or just see if they are needed after install? You aren't the first person I have seen mention they didn't end up needing them and curious if I should just "risk it" and not get them initially.

Yes and yes.
You find out in short order if you put the springs on old struts/shock if they are warn out. Just replace them and don't look back.
Bolts - Better have and not need...

 

[kryptto]

Would you say it is worth the extra cost and time to replace the shocks/struts? I ask only because to replace it all seems to be roughly $1k shipped and unsure if that would be worth the investment on top of the springs+sway bar. I assume given the age of the car it wouldn't hurt but trying to find a reason not to spend more on this lol.

As for the bolts, do you think it would be worth getting them just to have installed in the off chance it is needed or just see if they are needed after install? You aren't the first person I have seen mention they didn't end up needing them and curious if I should just "risk it" and not get them initially.

How many miles are on them struts, struts in general 80-100K miles, and to be conservative - 80K.

I got the bolts for the shiits and giggles. I put them in the car, took the car to get the alignment, and said if they have issues with camber, mostly - they are right there on the floor, and they would need to put the OEM in my box.

I got back the bolts unused, and all green colors for the adjustments.

I would sell ya my 28K mile struts but the boxing and shipping at a pack and ship might not be worth it.

 

[BlindAssassin111]

Yes and yes.
You find out in short order if you put the springs on old struts/shock if they are warn out. Just replace them and don't look back.
Bolts - Better have and not need...

Figured y'all would say that.

70k miles and just over 12 years old so probably a good idea.

So with that said, Do y'all know the part numbers for all of the parts you would recommend getting? Or is it just shocks/struts only and reuse the tophats, bolts (not the camber ones, assume I buy those), etc? From what I can tell the fronts are DG1Z-18124-L and DG1Z-18124-M and then rears are DG1Z-18125-F. Could be getting the wrong ones as tasca loves to show things non-SHO

 

[kryptto]

You want to see what I ordered for my '14 from FordPartsGiant:

Part No.: DG1Z-18124-W - SHOCK ABSORBER ASY

Part No.: DG1Z-18124-U - SHOCK ABSORBER ASY - FRONT

2 QTY -
Part No.: DG1Z-18183-A [BRACKET] [Ford | Taurus | 2014 | 6 Cyl 3.5L DOHC T/C | 6-Speed Automatic Transmission 6F55 | Four-Wheel Drive (Full Time) (Left Hand Drive) | SHO]
Replaced by: FB5Z-18183-A

ALSO - I would order replacement bolts - just in case or if you have issues. Order some thread sealer too.

 

[BlindAssassin111]

You want to see what I ordered for my '14 from FordPartsGiant:

Part No.: DG1Z-18124-W - SHOCK ABSORBER ASY

Part No.: DG1Z-18124-U - SHOCK ABSORBER ASY - FRONT

2 QTY -
Part No.: DG1Z-18183-A [BRACKET] [Ford | Taurus | 2014 | 6 Cyl 3.5L DOHC T/C | 6-Speed Automatic Transmission 6F55 | Four-Wheel Drive (Full Time) (Left Hand Drive) | SHO]
Replaced by: FB5Z-18183-A

ALSO - I would order replacement bolts - just in case or if you have issues. Order some thread sealer too.

After looking at the cost to replace and do lowering springs, I wonder if it would just be better to go with BC coilovers as they aren't much different in price at that point? Unsure as I haven't done a deep dive into those for this car as it started as just a $350 project and now it is nearly a $2k project. But somehow that always happens with this car, nothing is ever the cheap and easy route lol.

 

[Zpak]

But somehow that always happens with this car, nothing is ever the cheap and easy route lol.

Welcome to the SHO.

 

[kryptto]

This will be my last post on this thread - I have spent considerable time reconstructing conversations from many such threads about this topic. There are far too few options for this platform, coilovers do work, but there can be issues with bolt hole sizes, etc. It was a consideration when I did my job.

You asked about top hats etc. being replaced and I provided the part numbers for my '14, we have many threads where people come back and complain about squeaking, or popping sounds from the older parts they don't replace.

I am a firm believer - do it all - get all the parts while Ford still sells them now, then wait later and do it again at greater cost of time and effort. New parts just work, older parts with rust and wear might be a waste of time. When you price it all out - that is the cost of doing the job..... period. I suspect I wont need to work on my suspension for years, its all new.

 

[BlindAssassin111]

This will be my last post on this thread - I have spent considerable time reconstructing conversations from many such threads about this topic. There are far too few options for this platform, coilovers do work, but there can be issues with bolt hole sizes, etc. It was a consideration when I did my job.

You asked about top hats etc. being replaced and I provided the part numbers for my '14, we have many threads where people come back and complain about squeaking, or popping sounds from the older parts they don't replace.

I am a firm believer - do it all - get all the parts while Ford still sells them now, then wait later and do it again at greater cost of time and effort. New parts just work, older parts with rust and wear might be a waste of time. When you price it all out - that is the cost of doing the job..... period. I suspect I wont need to work on my suspension for years, its all new.

I appreciate your help.

Was more so "thinking out loud" as I wasn't expecting the pricing to be similar enough to coilovers but at the same time after more reading, I feel that might not be the route I want to go. H&R plus new shocks/struts will probably be the route I go.

One last question, I did find a post where a single person mentioned upgrading the sway bar end links (mevotech ttx), but I don't see you list any in your signature. Is that something you think is even needed or just extra money spent for the sake of spending money?

And I will take you up on the offer to buy the camber bolts, might as well have them on hand just in case.

 

[kryptto]

I appreciate your help.

Was more so "thinking out loud" as I wasn't expecting the pricing to be similar enough to coilovers but at the same time after more reading, I feel that might not be the route I want to go. H&R plus new shocks/struts will probably be the route I go.

One last question, I did find a post where a single person mentioned upgrading the sway bar end links (mevotech ttx), but I don't see you list any in your signature. Is that something you think is even needed or just extra money spent for the sake of spending money?

And I will take you up on the offer to buy the camber bolts, might as well have them on hand just in case.

That must be front end sway bar is my best guess. PM me - I will take a Zelle - need your address and full name - we can swap.

 

[kryptto]

I appreciate your help.

Was more so "thinking out loud" as I wasn't expecting the pricing to be similar enough to coilovers but at the same time after more reading, I feel that might not be the route I want to go. H&R plus new shocks/struts will probably be the route I go.

One last question, I did find a post where a single person mentioned upgrading the sway bar end links (mevotech ttx), but I don't see you list any in your signature. Is that something you think is even needed or just extra money spent for the sake of spending money?

And I will take you up on the offer to buy the camber bolts, might as well have them on hand just in case.

in hindsight they might be mentioning replacing the trailing arms? i know those were a recall for me, they can rust and break on other models.

 

[Texas Marauder]

in hindsight they might be mentioning replacing the trailing arms? i know those were a recall for me, they can rust and break on other models.

The recall was for rear toe links on police and PP. Go to the NHTSA website and enter your VIN to see if you have any recalls.

Recalls | NHTSA

Use our VIN lookup tool to check for recalls on your car, or search by make and model. Also, get recall information on car seats, tires and equipment.

www.nhtsa.gov